http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7WKg...e=channel_page

check the video,it e-mike runnig the 150amp at 6s

Has anyone mounted one of these in a converted revo? I really need a budget ESC and this would be perfect, but size kills... I worry about flipping and having the body crush in only a few MM to smash the ESC... Anyway to shrink it down or to mount it on a side so I could keep it away from the top of the tranny? Thanks

Not to terribly big.....

http://i438.photobucket.com/albums/q...g?t=1231473489

Mine will be in a converted revo and will be sitting on top of the transmission most likely though. Unless I can find a new way to mount it...

How tall is the fan? Im really anxious to hear the temp difference between fan and no fan on it. And anyone think it could turn a 3000kv Mega 6pole motor?

Hmm that looks like it could work nicely. How did you mount that? Any drilling or just a new screw?

Here is the guy....

http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...ghlight=revolt

I cant find where he talks about mounting it... And I am not a part of the traxxas forums(wont let me join cause I have a free email acount...). Anyone know a link to mounting the tray like that?

OK, so I attempted to hook the ESC to a motor to program it, but am having a bit of a hard time with programming. ESC/radio calibration is easy and went without a hitch, but programming the various settings is giving me issues.

How it is supposed to work:

- Enter programming by holding the "set" button until the red LED stops flashing and the green LED flashes once.

- Use the "set" button to change the settings (motor beeps for the setting count).

- When you want to go to the next programming option, you hold the "set" button for 3 sec and it advances to the next option.

- At any point, shut the switch off to end programming.

How it is working for me:

- I enter programming no problem

- I can change to any of the three potentional settings for the first program option (reverse/brake operation)

- This is where I'm stuck. I cannot advance to the next programming option. Holding the set button for any length of time (tried everything from 1 sec to 10 sec) simply changes the setting on the current programming option, but never goes to the next option.

Is there a trick to this? I've never had any issues programming any ESC, even the Quark which can be tricky at times. The "set" button obviously works, it's just not seeing when I hold it for the required 3 seconds. And radio EPA/trims are not an issue since the radion is not used at all during programming at all (but I do have trim centered, EPAs for F and R set at 100%, and linear action (not exponential).

When I get home tonight, I'm gonna try removing the switches and wiring in a different switch. But I don't think it's the switch TBH.

you can use the program card I found it on ebay just for $10 :)
I'm waitting your reveiw with medusa or neu motors to see how this ESC handle motors with 100-120A
Thanks

I'll have to go look for the card then, but honestly, I usually just program once and leave it alone. That's $10+shipping down the drain. And the stock programming should function IMO.

I'm redoing my Hyper8 and am waiting for batteries from Mike. When they get in stock, I'm gonna get them, a new battery tray, and a new motor mount. Only then will I get any kind of results. All my other vehicles are simply too ESC-specific to test with.

yeah i know stock programming should function but this card will work with all hobbywing ESC's so its for future use and its very easy for normal users.

I hope you test it before my MMM 1v and 3v dead because when it dead i have to trash it lol no way shipping it to castle it will cost me more than $90 :(

Thanks

Why dont you use the EZRUN programming card??
BTW: I have not found a EZRUN USB firmware programming device yet.. Does anyone have experience with it?

the speed passion lcd program card!!

OK, I figured out my problem. I was assuming operation similar to how most ESCs program. This is how it works (the manual isn't totally clear on this):

1. Enter programming by holding the "set" button and turning the switch on. Keep holding the "set" button until the red LED stops flashing and the green LED flashes for the programming step you want to adjust. So, if you want to adjust programming option 6, you have to keep holding the "set" button until the green LED flashes 6 times. Since it takes around 3 seconds to advance to each option, getting to the 12th option means you have to hold the "set" button for around 36 seconds.
   
   
2. Use the "set" button to change the settings (motor beeps for the setting count).
   
   
3. Shut the switch off.
   
   
4. To program another option, go back to step 1.

Pretty easy once you do the steps correctly. :oops:

Thanks brian - was getting worried... I've just ordered a 150A version from china as a backup in case my 2 mmms fail.

BTW: Does anyone know about the USB<-->hobbywing firmware programming thing??

Hey,

Spur of the moment buy for my 150A :-) ... USB firmware update and programming options... (not many, just a nicer screen - but who knows) ..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=34061

Hope they dont mind me putting the link in here...

Hey 150A continuous and 1080A burst...

I doubt this can be true. Only heard good things about this ESC. No failures yet.

Wanna try it with my CC neu 2200 :-)

Well, on the 80A version, I would spec it out at closer to 160A and that's with a derating for 200*F. So, 270A is not that far off. So, it looks like they are rating these things on the conservative side (or maybe realistically) similar to what Castle does.

Since I don't know the FET part # on the 150A model, and assuming the same derating ratio as on the 80A model, those numbers look about right. Maybe a tad on the high end on the burst figure, but maybe the FETs in the 150A simply have a better burst figure since they are different (being 6s rated). Any way someone could post the FET part # for the 150A model?

Someday, I'll get one of the 150A models to play with as well. Don't know what I could put it in since it is SOOO big. Heck, I'll throw a couple axles on it and use the ESC as the chassis. :smile:

Its pretty much a bolt on fit for erevo(no special mounts needed) and after reading a lot, almost nobody has issues with it except that it is not waterproof....yet. See hobbywing web site. Its on its way to me now... I'll try to take some closeups of it when I receive it. It only cost US$120 and free shipping so its amazing value for that price. (hope it works :-) ) Hope my 6s1p 5000 20c-30c zippy-H's will survive. I would not use a cheap BL motor with it - my cc neus 2200 are just super - I hope!

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...t=18727&page=3

i dont know if we are able to see something (post 35)...:whistle:

Hmm, I don't know how I managed to forget that! :oops:

Nevertheless, those numbers do not match a FET part... :neutral:

so i think that the 150amps is also a good controller....(even if my two unit are defective....)

BrianG

Have you had a chance to run the 80A ESC yet???

I am thinking about getting one in the next couple of days. I would just like to know how they perform before I purchase one. I plan on using it on my EMaxx and use my VXL motor for now.

Tim

Sorry, not yet. Still have to order a new motor mount and battery tray.

The MOSFET used are the ON Semi's 4833 http://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/NTMFS4833N.PDF. Same MOSFETs used in the Tekin R1/RS and some of Castle's ESC.

Hey Mike,

Do you plan on getting the programming card for these speed controls??? If so, when??

Tim

http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/w...g/P1050932.jpg

I am awaiting my 150A. In the meantime I got this...

http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/w...g/P1050934.jpg

http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/w...g/P1050935.jpg

I have the 150amp and programming cards on order. :)

It's nice to see that Hobbywing took full advantage of my program box idea. Good thing I got a thank you from them.

ETA on the 150a??? Oh, and price????

I have a EZRUN 35A and 60A. I wonder if that programming card would allow me to upgrade my firmware (if there is an upgrade).

I wonder what the difference between that card and the previous cards is aside from the usb interface.

Actually I got a program box from HobbyWing when I was evaluating their prototype Xerun60A back in fall 2007. It was a simple 4 digit LED box, now they upgrade it to a more interactive dot matrix LCD and made it USB compatible. Thanks for your great idea.

Yeah, The LCD one was the one I not only mentioned here in this forum, but I also gave the idea to Hobbywing. I save all the conversations I have with them and Pan was nice enough to thank me for the idea. I'm glad people will like it and I was hoping for Castle to bring it out, because if I recall I posted this idea in the Castle thread (Not 100% sure it was a while back).

My 150A has 12 of the following FETS
http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Colla...NTMFS4833N.PDF

You sure it only has 12? That would mean each phase only has 4 FETs, only half of which are on at any one time (per coil end). The 80A has 18 FETs, 6 for each phase and 3 on (per coil end) at any one time. Granted, the 80A uses a different FET package, but the specs aren't that good on the 4833's... I would have thought the 150 would place FETs on both sides of the power board. :neutral:

Well to be really honest. I had to use very creative lighting to even see it (I now understand your statement). On the one side of the board there were two rows of 6...maybe there were more directly underneath the heatsink somewhere else... There was some kind of power chip on the bec side +-"KIA78D05" it looked like. I did not want to unsolder the connector and probe any further. So maybe there were more...mmm. BTW: The electrolytic caps were 1000uf x 3 ... The exact chip number was 4833N R836. The microcontroller number was filed off.

I'll take a look tommorrow again. Could be 14 or 16, but definitely not 18 on the side I was looking at.

On the 80A, the FETs are between the power board and the brain board. The heatsink just touches the PCB, but no FETs directly.

BTW: The uP might simply be a PIC, so it wouldn't really matter if you could read the part # or not since those chips can be pretty much whatever they are programmed to be.

Just because I'm such a nice guy I went to look again, took it apart. There are TWO banks of 6 FETS on the other side of the brain board. Thats makes a grand total of 12 as I said before. Did not take the heatsink off(think they glued it). BTW: The semi transparent bottom part is not sealed well - i dont know why they bothered with the rubber seal because there is a large hole in an obvious place.

I don't get it, so the 150A and the 80A has the same MOSFETs!!! Do you have pictures of the MOSFET board of the 150A?