Shimming the diffs make the most diferrence. I am using Ofna 8 spider diff on my gmaxx and I still have to strip one of them. Of course, I shimmed them nicely too.

I agree with Lito. 1/8 diffs in a metal case that are shimmed properly should not have problems with the systems we are running.

I use these in my FLM hybrids.

well i opened the diff and the ofna titan spider gears were all broken into tiny little peices unlike the inferno spider gears where the gears stripped , so i put another set of kyosho inferno spider gears in the diff and this time i shimmed it so it has a tight mesh , where it was hard to turn by hand, its been 2 runs now and im not having problems with, i will take it to the track today and will see what will happen.I passed by my LHS to see wat diffs they had , the xtm spider gears looked like they were made of the same material of the titans ,so i didnt get , so i bough a complete diff of a strange brand for 15$ and was planning to useit if the kyosho inferno spiders fail again , but it didnt so far was expecting it to strip the first 5 min

if all fails im gonna get the aluminum diff case and hot bodies diff , , anyone running this setup??

Hot bodies diffs + UE ultralite cases, about as bullet proof as you will get apart from ofna 8 spider diffs = my setup.

I broke the output shaft on a hot bodies diff the other weekend:oops:

Vandal. Was it the original shaft with a cup attached, or one of Mikes shafts that lets you use other cups etc?

well after shimming the diffs so it has a tight mesh i havnt been having problems with the spider gears stripping or breaking , but now i noticed that my car tends to go to the right under hard acceleration , its not from the steering i think it m8 be from the diffs , wat could be causing this problem ??

Torque steer ftw! :mdr:

If it wasnt doing it before though, I would check over the steering and the toe-links to make sure everything is right & proper in those departments.

Mine does the same though, its just a natural thing as the truck leans to one side under power- like the way a txt-1 does only not as bad.

Engineering.
 

Engineering wise that is somewhat natural due to the torsional twisting effect of the motor because it is mounted from front to rear in the vehicle. It should not be too noticable though being that the vehicle is pretty small. In 1:1 dragsters it can actually throw the car into the wall due to this physical act of mechanical nature if it is not compensated for. It sounds to me like since you shimmed the diff properly you have a very tight setup that is near perfect, casuing the vehicel to pull to one side.

Some guys on the TRX forum actually had the same problem after installing those diffs I dont remember what they did about it. I'm pretty sure there is more to this than torque steer.

well im still having diff problems , they usually last 2 weeks then strip , i think it m8 me cause of 3 things , either its because 1)its too heavy (FULL flm parts arms chassis shock towers .....) 2) the diffs i used were from an ofna titan , used infernop and a non brand chinese diff so it m8 me cause the diffs i used r weak 3) coz im using ofna titan cups with spacers


the solution to the first is buy flextek arms and g4 chassis , for the second is buy lightning hardened diffs , for the third is buy the adapter to use emaxx cups


wat do u think is the problem , anyone used to have the same issues ?


thanks

Not sure about the weight issues. Alot of us have heavy trucks without a problem. Just be done with it and get the HP buggy diffs and you will be fine. I have beat the snot out of my truck without a problem.

well i just ordered a set of hardened spider gears from the hot bodies lightning to try it cause i coudnt afford the full set cause i had to get some other stuff for my other RCs , but can anyone help me on how to shim the spider gears , cause im not sure of the way i do it

Here is a pictorial thread on how to shim a Maxx diff:

http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...ntial+shimming

Hey with those ejector pins, can you put them into the lower front bulk cause wouldn't they rub on the steering turnbuckles?
THANKS!@
I just want to know how many to buy >:)

Ejector pins
 

If you are talking about the ejector pins being used for hinge pins, then yes. I have mine cut flush on both ends so they do not interfer with anything at all. The first set that I cut I left the ball ends on and inserted them from the front. That way there is no possible way for them to come out, because the bumpers keep them in place. When I purchased mine I ordered 8 of the 14" pins so I would have plenty of spares. We do have six SuperMaxx trucks though, plus two stocker trucks. If you are using the RCM Hybrid diff/bulks they will work just fine. I also tapped out the setscrew holes to use a bigger setscrew for holding the pins in place. Those little tiny ones strip out way too easy for my liking.

Ok great to know. So i pretty much have a turbocharged stock truck (allu bulks etc…) without the setscrew thingo will 8 ejector pins be fine to fit 1 truck?
Thank you

One pin
 

You can probably do all four corners with one 14" pin, but for the price I would get a few pins so you have back up spares. They are easy to cut with a Dremal tool using a cutoff wheel. I usually grind a divit into the pins where teh setscrews seat, and then you are good to go.

:surprised:
I just want to know if you know what is better between the straight ejector pins and the through hardened straight pins :O
THANKS~

Through hardened.
 

Most who are using them are getting the through hardened pins. The reason for using these over lets say the Lunsford titanium pins is that they are hardened steel and do not bend. Removing bent pins can be a real PITA. They hold up much better with little wear, and I have yet to hear about anyone breaking them. There is a thread in here some place about them, along with a link to the site where you can order them.

Here they are. http://www.plastixs.com/ep03.html

Hmm, does anyone know the cheapest method and rough estimate of cost for shipping them pins to Australia?
I emailed the Plastixs company about 3 times and got no reply, I just don't want to end up spending 100$ on shipping for 20$ of small metal pins.
Thanks.

Did you try to write to them at

(customerservice@plastixs.com),

or even send them a info request on their site at

(http://www.plastixs.com/info.html).

I believe they do international deliveries, but I am sure that the shipping fees are whatever the norm is for your region.

:-O thanks i didn't notice that email address.
I'll give it a try :-)
thankyou

Let us know.
 

Well let us know how that works out for you. Plus let us know what you think about using these pins as an alternative.

Well the info request proved useless and I still have yet to receive a reply, so last resort is that email address you suggested.
:-Z What could be wrong..

Oh My Gosh!!!
Finally a reply but lets have a guess.
8 pins weigh less than 1kg i guess,
do they ship for $20? $30? $45?
NO!
they ship for $90 !!! OUTrageOusS!!
:-/ so I asked Linda for a cheaper method, i cannot believe shipping is 4x's the cost of the product....

Rediculous.
 

That is rediculous. Sorry to hear of your situation. I have no idea what it costs to ship a package to your location from the USA, but that seems to be quite a bit overkill to me. Try researching these push pins in Europe. Surely they are not the only providers on the planet, are they? These pins should be quite previlant in the plastics industry. They are manufactured for use in plastic molding machines for removing products from their molds. Good luck with that.