Oh, here is a shot of the truck with the body on, sorry it's just a "bench" shot, in-race shots and videos coming soon...

http://visionarycomputer.net/rc/8ightT2e/racebody.jpg

Great review of your truggy :yes: Well-done Sir.

They don't stay clean and new long, do they :mdr:

Looks slow...

I know, it's an optical illusion. I had my expert painter make it look slow, to fool the competition. Once the race starts, this Losi actually eats Z01-T truggies for extra battery power. Turns out the Z01-T is good for something besides holding down a large stack of papers.

I would fire your painter as soon as you can.

Rumor has it he uses extra heavy paint to weigh down the bodies, and uses extra "protection coat" to weigh down the truggy even more.

I wish I had a painter to paint my 2.0 body who uses extra heavy paint.

I got a lot of play time at the track yesterday.. I am by no means a pro driver but this truck feels like it really wants to plow the corners.. you have to roll them or the truck won't turn.. Any ideas on what I can do to help this? It seems to plow the corners more than my 1.0 but maybe it is just me..

I don't yet have enough track time to say much. I raced it box-stock with two changes:

1.) I used the purple (stiffest) springs. The electric truck is still about .3-.4 pounds heavier than the Nitro (with fuel) so you need stiffer springs.

2.) The ride height collars are VERY far down in the back to get the back end up a bit. The rear must be 3-4mm higher than the front.

However I think the biggest cure for push is likely a quick tap of the brakes to shift weight to the front end. I'll know more once my local track opens and I really start fine tuning.

Gonna bring it to the barn? Can't wait to race my new truggy, I wish I had never heard of Traxxas now!!! LOL

Oh yeah, I'll be at the Barn with it...

Is it just that one screw hole on the battery tray that holds it to the chassis? Where did you get it, I'm not sure mine came with one.

Also I assume you had to change the gasket in the diff when changing the spur? Mine is leaking.

also do you think the motor bracket was necessary?

There are many screws that hold the battery tray on. Take a look at this:

http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/8IGHTEexplode2.pdf

As for the diff gasket, I didn't have a new one so I let it ride, so far it has not leaked but I know from the CRT that leaks are not uncommon. A new one should tighten it up.

As for the motor bracket, I'm using it. Fits perfectly with Mike's mount AND the little riser under the diff AND my 2200KV Neu. It isn't quite touching but I figure if the chassis tries to flex too much it will hit and give some additional rigidity. Not a problem yet even over those big Wolcott Jumps.

Did you get a bag of hardware? I don't think my tray did.

Also are you using the losi diff plate also along with the spacer that came with the RCM mount?

Yes and yes but my battery tray was part of the conversion kit. If you just bought the tray you need the screws and such shown in that exploded view.

damn it! I was so close.

A few cheap packs of screws and you will be g2g.

Dave what did you use for screws on spacer side of the motor mount. The stock ones are too short.

Thanks.

I can't say for sure. I bought a Tony's Screws Kit for the 8T 2.0 so I just used whatever fit.

Does Mike make a mount for the LOSI 2.0 8T???

I'm sure it's the same on all the 8s....:sleep:

The 1.0 mount works..

I'm using Mike's mount in mine. Nothing special about the 2.0, the regular mount works just fine.

Dave what gearing are you running? Also what is the diff ratios for these 2.0. I am trying to figure out the speed in the calculator. I just picked up a 2.0 last night.

Diffs are standard 4:3. Right now I'm using the 45T plastic Spur with a 14T pinion. It's a tad too fast for my normal (small) track, I may try the 13T but I've been running Electric long enough to stay away from full throttle. I'm at 4s on a 2200kv motor.

I have the 2200kv combo as well. Getting Mike's motor mount overnighted to me. Wanting to get this thing up and running by the weekend. I was trying to figure out how to get two battery trays in the chassis. Will work on that next.

I am a total newb but for what it's worth I am running 15/46 with a 1700kv on 5s.. I have been playing with the truck a lot. I couldn't get it to turn on power with our new track setup.. which is a pretty small track and now it is more of a technical and tight with short turns, compared to a supercross style track.. I have mad some progress I changed the ackerman to short and it made a world of a difference. I wish I had done this first.. I also put the big sway bar in the front and rear but I think I am going to take out the rear put the one that cam on it back in, since it has to much steering now.. I also put the purple heavy springs in the rear and the next heaviest grey springs in the front..

Have you guys played with shock setup at all? I change the pistons and oil but I am not sure it helped my cause.. I think the front is better I have 35wt 54 pistons and in the rear I have 35wt 55pistons.. I think I am going to go back to 56 pistons in the rear and maybe try a lighter weight oil.. if the piston change isn't enough..

Be sure to check your shock ends on your truck before you take it out.. I had 2 come off the first 2 times I took the truck out..

Our local track is being finished off this weekend. Once I'm on my home turf, I plan to tweak the handling. The only change I did make was to go with the purple springs in the back and set the ride hight accordingly. With the Electric goodies it's about .3-.5 pounds heavier than a Nitro so I needed quite a bit of pre-load adjustment in the front and rear. I also plan to go with the 3/3 clip in the back. Stock is 3/3.5 and I've heard it makes a difference, not sure if that's true but for $12 I'm going to give it a shot. Finally I run the battery as close to the front as possible. I'll continue to post as I find setup changes that help handling.

Small update, I headed down to the track yesterday. Unfortunately it was still not quite finished. It was very rough and largely untested. I was able to take some laps and confirm that the strongest feature of the 8T 2.0 is it's jumping. My home track last year had very few jumps but this year it's got loads of air. The 8T 2.0 took them all in stride.

I did however fall victim to yet another "2.0" issue, the incredibly stiff servo saver spring. I've never blown a servo but during my second pack yesterday I roasted the gears in my Z9000T. Unfortunately I didn't have a spare so it ended my race day. As I'd read in other forums, I purchased and installed a "1.0" spring and it has loads more give. I figure if it's too soft I'll adjust the collar to tighten it down.

I suspect this week the track will be fine tuned and by race day (5/2) it should be a little easier on the truck. I can't wait.

I do have two short videos, these are not my truck but they show off two cool features of the track, the "Great Wall" and our wooden jump...

The Great Wall

Wooden Jump

Dave....mine was on the track yesterday as well. I am having two problems....one the rear end is VERY loose on this truck vs the RC8TE I also got. Other thing is the shock rod ends twice they popped out....any upgrades for that. Have you heard or seen anyone else having that problem.

I have felt like mine was loose as well. I've heard moving to the 3/3 rear block helps (it's 3/3.5 stock and you have to buy the 3/3)

As for the shock ends, known issue. Whatever automation they use to put them on strips them out. Buy a new set and they will work fine. DON'T reuse the one's that pull out. Some folks have gotten a set free from Losi support, I didn't have the time and for $7 it's not worth the effort.

Ok...good to know on the shock ends.

Also you mean 3 deg toe , 3 deg camber?? Is that right?

It's actually 3° Toe and 3° Anti-squat, I believe it's called a Pivot Brace. Losi makes a bunch, they also have an adjustable one. I'm getting the King Headz version.

Dave, when you first ran your 2.0 truggy how did the rear diff feel? I am putting one together now and used all the shims per instructions and it feels questionable when I turn it. I read on rctech that it will loosen up. Did you have any issues with the rear diff? Thanks.

damn no quicktime at work. will have to watch these at home. I want to see how the new pinshop track looks. I know dan told me there are a lot more jumps.

I didn't notice anything unusual in the rear diff and have not taken mine apart yet. What do you mean about it feeling questionable? In what way?

Dave what are you and some of the guys running for steering arm. The factory junk plastic one is now stripped....

Also I borrowed and AL one that is a dynamite brand and it works great but how are you guys centering the steering. The arm goes in one way and it will not full lock to the right, so I took the arm back off and went the opposite direction and now it will not full lock the other way. The steering is a PITA.

I'm using the same JR Aluminum horn I've been using for years. It has two set screws as well as the standard top load screw to hold it in. I put it on as centered as I could but had to adjust the trim to like -12 or -15. Then I set the end points and was just fine. 65 on one end and 82 on the other if I recall correctly. I'm definitely getting full throw. Got the rub on the arms to prove it.

Hmm, guess I need a little longer throw arm then.

There is a pretty decent photo of it at the start of this thread. It's not terribly long. Matter of fact, I did some dremmel work on it to make it look a little prettier with rounded edges b/c I cut part of it off. Does your radio have EPA adjustments?