Realistically you have no idea what you are getting on too many levels.

I have rethought my suggestions and have two scenarios I will point you towards to get your feet wet.

A) Get the 1/16th BL Revo, a good 30c plus 3s lipo, some good street foams, and start there, get some extra bigger pinions and play with the speeds and get used to the idea

B) do the same but with a rustler VXL and a good 30c 5000mah 3s lipo and some street foams

I would stay off the rocks going over 50 mph period. Anything over that and it's smooth pavement only, I teel you thins from experience. Invest in either a small GPS or a radar gun so you know your true speeds. Also like snellemin said invest in an eagletree system so you can properly log what your system is doing.

Start this deal in baby steps and go from there. Who knows, you may get out there and get tired really quickly of speed, then you still at least have a good basher. You may love speed and go up from there but I think either of those is a logical scenario for you at this point.

If you start getting into a 12s system and all the needed accessories you will be over $1500.00 quick!

The motors are rpm limited usually up to 60,000 ( which is pushing it). kv of the motor your using x volt of the batts= rpm of the motor. example: So a neu 1.5d is 2700kv x 6s(22.2volt) = 59940 rpm.

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...t/HPIM5877.jpg


I've gotten my losi 8ight to the mid 90's running a 1515 1.5D on 6S 30C lipos geared 43/25. I don't think a 2 speed is necessarily the way to go unless the 2nd gear is higher than any you can find in a single speed like most 1/8 buggies have. Mike's rcm mount is absolutely necessary for the 8ight as it allows for the biggest gearing.

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...t/HPIM5831.jpg

I do use the losi rally tires, but sadly, they have been discontinued.

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...t/HPIM6249.jpg

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...dID=LOSA17768B


there has been some rumor of them coming back, but nobody seems to know when or if it's true.

the part of Virginia i live in has alot of bad streets that never get cleaned from the winter's salt dumps. so running foams is not an option for me as all they do is slide. So now i have to go back to running buggy tires from ebay.

However, the good news is you can make virtually any pre-mount tire run the 100mph mark with the fishing line test method without them blowing.

OverRevo's fishing line technique is genius, but I do mine a little bit differently, but it works just the same. i don't cut the groove in the rubber. i just wrap the line around 3 times, in 3 different sections....each edge and the middle. i then tie it off and then put a drop of ca glue over the knot to keep it from un-tieing. incredible. it cuts down the ballooning by 80% imo. Technically i think it's even faster than the rally tires because the line does allow for a tiny bit of ballooning thus giving it a higher "theroritical" gearing due to the tire size increase.

i have tested every tire that the ebay store carries (i think) and my favorite for the street was the mohawks. i'm doing the same method with 4 rows of the braided line and they are rock solid.

i chose the mohawks for 2 reasons....they grip on everything and the tread pattern is very tall. (almost like the gladiators) This method will work as long as their is tread on the tire. after that, you'll have to cut grooves like OverRevo did.
I also glue beads of IC-2000 around the edges of the rim to meet the tire on both sides just to backup the factory gluing job.
this method has worked on every tire i own so far. i've tried it on the following:

1. crimefighters
2. mohawks
3. talons
4. HPI phaltliners
5. badlands
6. bowties

For my initial 90+mph test run I used the supra sales "crimefighter" style tires and used this for the re-enforcement...example:

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...t/HPIM6243.jpg


it's Stren Sonic Braid fishing line. 65lb. I got it at Dick's sporting good store. it works AWSOME.

here's what it looks like done:

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...t/HPIM6241.jpg


my next test to break the 100mph mark is to get a 1521 1D (2900KV) and run it on 5S with a custom made 30T pinion

Did you duct tape the inside of the tire too?

no, they came pre-glued.

That tire above with the fishing line is it a truggy or buggy tire its hard to tell? I was thinking of using the new pro-line vtr xtr 4" wheels and tire combo and do the fishing line mod which tire do you think would work the best.

Those are Buggy Crime fighters in the pic.

I think the new VTR's will be the best truggy option since the shortest sidewall.

Yea I was thinking the same thing I wonder if I could do the fishing line mod on the vtr"s.

it's a buggy tire. here's where i buy all my treaded pre-mounts:

http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Supra-Sales__W0QQ_armrsZ1

the thing i like about this store, is all their pre-mounts are always perfectly balanced and they are glued very very well.

I've used the fishing line method on these as well and it works great:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Yoko-1-8-pre-mou...4.c0.m14.l1262

I think, ideally, the HPI phaltliners are the best for the truggies/MT's, but if traction is an issue for you like it is me then the Supra truggy yoko's are great with the fishing line technique.

also, i've heard mixed reviews on these, but might work for MT foams. it certainly has the size. i just don't know how good the glue is.

http://www.imexrc.com/servlet/the-25...M-GREEN/Detail

Dwight is obviously on the right track to hitting the 100mph mark. Follow what he is doing and pic his brain as much as you can, sharkattack.

Also Shark, if you want to avoid doing the 8s or 10s setup stick with the MMM, 6s lipo, and get a 1521 or 1527 Neu motor. there are a bunch available right now on offshoreelectrics.com great prices too. if you run 6s just choose a motor with about 2000kv. this will put your motor in the 50k rpm range which is close to max of the motor but not so fast to damage your motor. if you choose this type of setup the rest is gonna be up to gearing and aerodynamics and durability really. good luck.

thanks for the info and the pictures dwight, is that the 2.0 version or just the 8ight? i was looking at the 8ight 2.0 as a starting point. did you get the motor here on rcm? not sure if i should get the one with the motor and stuff or the one with out cause i was hoping to sell the nitro for some extra cash to help fund my project. im not sure yet still getting info and research on were i should start.

well if i can't find a motor that can handle the 8s or 10s or even 12s i won't be able to go that route. we'll see.

The esc has to be able to handle 8s 10s or 12s first and they are pretty pricey. I really dont think you can put that many batts on that chassis can you?.

All of the 8ights i have, i got off of ebay as nitro rollers. I just got #6 the other day. they were alot cheaper than going the e-route and i could build them the way i thought they should be done.

check out this thread on how i approached the build if you're interested:

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...07&postcount=9

That particular 8ight was a 1.0rtr i had made into an electric conversion, but i have the 2.0 as well as the 1.0 race roller. the differences are all so minimal, any of the platforms are gonna be great to use and all of the parts are interchangeable.

I got my neu at offshore. they've been on sale for a few months now. As far as going 8, 10 or 12S, it's all a choice of effeciency vs effeciency to get the same speeds as 60K is gonna be the limit for any neu to last.

for me, it's a heck of alot easier to get a 1515 1.5 D to do 90+ on 6S than it is to mess with a HV-110 and pistix with a lower KV motor and have to carry all the extra weight. in the end, you have to get as close to 60K rpms as you can without burning it up so i decided to go with a higher KV motor with less voltage. The lower KV motor with higher voltage will be more effecient, but to me it seems like it could also be problematic as using mechanical brakes and fitment will become somewhat of an issue.

For me, the 1515 1.5D is plenty of motor for me. It'll get you right around the 90-95mph mark if you have a good long stretch of road to run on.


Edit:

Still, i think the ultimate speed package is gonna be the 1521 1D (2900KV) on 5S. when i dropped my friend's in...my jaw hit the floor. I'm ordering my own from castle. :gasp:

I just noticed offshore has some 5mm in stock now. Also, if you go the 1521 route, this is also a good idea to use:

http://rc-monster.com/proddetail.php...rontmotorcover

The IMEX tires just like the OFNA buggy foams are not glued, they are 2 sided tape.

The buggy tires have held up for me at 100+ with no big issues.

The IMEX in my opinion are horrible!! Big issues are the rim is very weak, has alot of wall flex and the IMEX is 14mm hub, not 17mm.

good to know. i was close to buying some of those imex foams to test out on my twin monster mamba e-maxx. Now i'm glad i didn't. :yes:


i think i'll stay with the phaltliners for my MT. they have produced the best results for me so far.

wow thanks for the info now i have a starting point. and good lock to you on your quest for 100+.

oh for got to ask what is a pistix? and why would i need one?

it's an adapter that makes it possible to use aircraft escs like the phoenix hv 110 that can handle much more voltage.

basically, the pistix translates the throttle signal of an aircraft (which is different from a land esc) to a land signal. you need to use manual servo brakes though as an air brake translation gives little more than the feeling of a drag brake.

I have a pistix never used, one of his last. Though he said he was going to make a pistix 2.0 which would make mine turd. Its all yours if you get this going. Means I have to get up and go to the post office. No small task for me. Lets see some progress and if you need it its yours. RCM <~ makes it happen

many newer plane esc's don't need a pistix, they just calibrate for either radio type. cc hv's need one though. hobbycity's don't........

they made a pistix 2.0. i got one from offshore, but they're out of stock now. here's a link:

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=msw-pistix

they also sell it here under speed controls:

http://www.mikessubworks.com/page1.html

Skip the pistix and crap brakes of a air esc... get a 15s MGM with proper brakes and car software (no pistix needed).

Word!

sweet thats nice of you, still trying to decide on a kit. once i get that decided should flow from there hopfully, :lol:

having never used an MGM, i can't really lend an opinion but i had heard of horror stories about how hard they were to program. There's a guy over at Traxxas who got one a month ago and is still trying to figure it out and that was even after reading the instructions on RCM. isn't the place that warranties them in Chezloslovakia too?

go with Castle Creations if you can.

+1

Excellent customer service too. i would also buy a back-up because their warranty repair times can get a little lengthy in the summer months, but as i said in another thread with a great product comes great demand.

Programming the MGM with the radio can be a bit tricky. If your buddy is having problems, have him reset all to defaults and start over. The USBcom makes it so much easier (like castlelink). Yes they are in the Czech republic, and can take a while. I sent one in, not for repair, but for firmware update (old model). I have a couple and they work great. They are expensive though, but they run cool with no fan to break.

I agree... If you can use a castle MMM and 6s, then that would be best. But castle does not make a car controller for over 6s (yet), and an air esc just isn't the best way to go IMO.

i have a nother question about brushless and instead of opening a new thread i will just post it in this one. what happens when you push a brushless motor past 60k rpms? say 68k? does it over heat and blow up, overheat and shut down and the motor is gone? or just brake?

Break? no.

Its just a safe limit since thats what most bearings are rated for, in theory you can swap the bearings over for something better/ higher spec/ smoother etc and that wont be an issue anymore. The main issue really is that BL motors are most efficient in the 30-40k rpm range, so the higher past that you go, the hotter the motor and esc will tend to run. Its also an issue with the rotor, since not many companies wrap it with anything (like CF or kevlar), so the magnets can fly apart at very high rpms- not such an issue with small motors, but your typcial 1/8 motor is more susceptible.

so its really not a heat issue? its more of a magnets can fly apart and your left with a dead motor cause im sure heat can be treated. but the rotor and flying magnets im sure can't.

It is to do with heat- like revving the nuts off a petrol engine, its gonna run very hot.

Heat can be remedied to an extent, depends how much over ~60'000rpm you plan on going; its better to use a more powerful motor that can pull taller gearing, rather than over rev a smaller motor, at least the way I see it.

I got a question when your on the throttle does your motor kv spin up to the 3.7 cell voltage or up to the amount of voltage that is availiable? Lets say under full throttle your batt only show 3 volt per cell, so should you go by that voltage or by the 3.7 volts still. If you go by the lower number your motor is actually spinning slower so in reality you might be able to add another cell with out going over the 60000 rpm limit.

Quality motors can sustain 60k+ rpms for a short duration. So adding another cell to compensate for the lower voltage under load will work, but only if your esc can handle it. But I only recommend an extra cell if you and your car can handle it.

do they make a brushless conversion kit for a CEN Matrix FRE pro kit? im getting one from a guy and a bunch of parts enough he said to build it like twice over, for $225. but anyway brushless kits do they make one for it? or am i going to have to improvise a motor mount and stuff?

mike makes a mount

thanks that must of been the one i saw then i wasn't sure if it was for a buggy or not. thanks again.

well i have decided not to use a buggy for my project, decided to see how fast i can get my savage to go instead. so far i have kershaw designs direct drive 43t spur a 38t pinion if it will fit with the spur won't fit with a 47t to big, have some flux tvps on the way, and the flux ESC mount as well. prolines standard road rage tires on RPM wheels and a castle creations 2200 setup right now 3s lipo. i was thinking a buggy going 90 wouldn't be as impressive as a savage going 90 lol or faster we shall see.

Problem is the road rages wont last past 60mph . They will balloon and most likely explode past those speed. Tires are the biggest issue for high speed runs you better do more research before investing a ton of money like I have.

what about hpis phaltline tires?