The last CDs I will probably make. They are IMO the best built and best looking ones I've done so far. Made from the heavy duty Losi diffs, one for the ERevo tranny and one for the nitro Revo tranny. For the posts, I found that these Kyosho ones worked great. The gears were originaly white but I dyed them black because I thought it looked better. One more thing I found out is the Losi hardened steel seems to be harder than the Ofna steel and much harder than the Thunder Tiger steel. That is just by using the same tools to modify and drill them. I wouldn't dare try to put threads in the Losi hardened steel so maybe the machinists were thinking of really hard steel like that when they refused to do the job for SC.

The ERevo one

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w.../th_mccd19.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w.../th_mccd20.jpg

The nitro Revo one

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w.../th_mccd13.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w.../th_mccd14.jpg

Wow those look perfect MC!

I thought I would mention that I think spot annealing can really do wonders to soften up the steel. I took a small blow-torch and put the very tip of the blue flame exactly where I was going to drill for 10 min. or so. It got a dull red hot, not too bright. Then let it cool to room temp. The carbide drill bit and cobalt tap went through like it was aluminum being worked on. Unfortunately I haven't drilled/tapped the hardened caps without annealing, so I don't have a reference to compare how much the annealing helped. Just going off of what you guys say about the un-annealed steel I can almost guarantee that the annealing will help.

WOW, MC, those look great......job well done......and to everyone who has made one...great job as well.....I'm glad everyone was able to make one, and hopefull a few more people will to.....

Ugh... All I'm waiting on is diff oil and it's taking FOREVER to get here. Then the center diff can be dropped in along with the RCM hybrids. Can't wait to have this project completed!

After all that effort, time and money invested in this, it's ironic that it's presently all useless without a couple of 3 dollar bottles of diff lube :yes:

Well I changed what I called ''the last CD I will make'' for my ERevo. I used Axial posts instead of the Kyosho ones. The Kyosho ones are well suited for a CD made for the nitro Revo tranny because they are 5 mm in diameter and they fit better in the small 28 tooth gear that has to be used. But they have to be cut to the right length. The bigger TRA3985X 33 tooth gear of the ERevo CD works very well with these 7 mm diameter posts from Axial and the posts don't have to be modified in any way. But the output gear is drilled with a 9/32'' bit to slip over the Axial posts.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w.../th_mccd21.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w.../th_mccd22.jpg

just ordered the parts to do the LST diff conversion.
going to differ it a little bit by using the OTHER black outdrive gear from the revo and going to make custome posts on the lathe.

Well I got the hybrid center diff installed no problem. I started to do the F/R RCM hybrid installs but I'm having issues, so I'll probably just keep the stock F/R diffs in so I can get some driving in and then work on the RCM hybrids over the winter. I ended up filling the center hybrid up with 50k silicone oil. I'll report back once I get some driving in, maybe even later today if the weather holds. I want to try to unleash the punch control on the MMM a bit more and see how the center hybrid diff handles it.

you dont understand how close i was to getting a losi smart diff for conversion, same principle just a little more $.
hope to have smart diffs all round one day i think:intello:

I almost tried an Ofna Spyder diff. Might still do that, or look at a Torsen diff.

I've seen quite a few people mention the torsen diffs dont handle BL power all that well, plus they work the opposite way to a normal diff; instead of sending excess power to the fronts to prevent wheelies, they send all the power to the rear wheels (if used as a center diff)- not good for handling...

well my LST diff turned up.
my mate got a losi smart diff for xmas pressie to himself for later conversion.
i reckon we'll put that in the front depending on how much we like the LST center diff.

i'm not going to use the carbon fibre on mine as the gear already has one side blocked over with plastic, this is what the carbon fibre would do in the other setup.

i'm going with this setup...
http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w...t=losi_cd2.jpg

my only concern is that it will be a pain to dissasemble.

Is anyone intersted in selling a 1/8 center diff that will fit a nitro (3.3) tranny ?
I dont have the skill, stuff or time to do one myself.

have thouse people tired them?

i have torsen diffs in 3 of my brushless conversions (2 buggys and a truggy)and all of them show very little wear

i think the people who are haveing problems are either building them wrong or not changeing out grease often enuff

and as for putting power thrugh them, im running 5 and 6 cell, when set up right they work the way they should, my 8ight will lift the wheels about 2 inches for only a second when leaveing the line but its a hell of alot faster launch than balloning the front tires.

That set up is a pain to assemble and disassemble. I suggest you go with the last system I did in post 46.

I could part with the ''CowboyRay'' CD I have. I updated it with shafts to run the rear brake so it's ready to go inside a 3.3 Revo tranny. PM me if you're interested.

i began building it that way, but i decided yesterday to change the plastic gear.
rather than using the solid tranny 5 spoke gear, ive switched to the trx revo center diff gear.
that will make things a little easyer for me:yipi:
more even screw spacing then.
how on earth did you drill holes in your "cap" cause i actualy DE-hardened mine, heated it up then let it cool in cement dust for 24 hours. i can drill mine now.

That cd w/the carbon fiber is real nice...I wish I had the skill to perfectly cut a perfect circle like that! Well done! =)

As previously posted I actually had my local machine shop tell me they couldn't even do it. Ended up spot annealing and using a pure carbide bit as suggested by mistercrash and it was a piece of cake. I'm kind of interested to see how it would be drilling an un-annealed cap, just to compare it and see how much the annealing helped. Also used a cobalt tap for the threads, but depending on what design you follow you might not need to tap at all.

I used carbide drill bits and a carbide counter sinking bit like SC did.

if un-annealing means un-hardening then it was fine to drill with.
just heat up till red hot, then cool as slowly as possible for 24 hours (cement dust works a treat) and then drill with a standard drill bit.

edit: first LST diff in final stages now, i ended up using the traxxas center diff gear on the LST diff instead as that is what i had on hand. will fill with 100k oil then go try and kill it on 6s :lol:

shaun

Annealing is softening the metal. I did spot annealing at the suggestion of some guys on a CNC forum. Yes, the metal drills very easily after annealing.

What I was saying is I would like to compare drilling the annealed metal to drilling the stock un-altered hardened metal, and see just how much the annealing actually helps.

I don't think you need to wait 24 hours and use the cement dust. Cement dust or not the metal will be cooled to ambient temp within 15-30 min. at most

i chose cement dust from personal experience, i have had a larger item kept red hot for hours on end by putting it in cement dust as it has good insulation capabilities.
shaun

hahaha cool stuff man, I read your first part an yes the other guy was me. I also read about crashes idea and then ran with it but in a little different direction.. Also if you look in the thread Outlaw ran with the idea aswell and actually fitted a Robinson racing gear on the center diff, last time I chatted with him he said his thing is indestructible..

I have yet to follow suite with the Robinson gear as I was busy on a few other projects, also I did find that the plastic gear could not hold up to actual race conditions.. IE hard braking and acceleration while coming of jumps.

Here's the thread,
http://hdrcvideos.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=17886

Here is the other thread,
http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...42#post3953042

BTW I just remembered what I was talking about before LOLOLOL

if you read one of my last posts I was intending to make the "CAP" of the CD out of a Kyosho plastic 44T spur, it would be super cheap and super easy to do. You just use the same principle as the studs but replace the hardened steal with plastic :)

http://www.rc-monster.com/prodimages...iokyoif147.jpg

I already checked the bolt pattern and there the same for the kyosho and losi.


it has been done and works really well, outlaw LST2 did it and if I remember right snagged him a 1st place finish.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7OGBbpu6tG8

Here he is, the ''post man''. :lol: I'm glad you joined this thread. Your post idea has been working really well on my CDs and made it so much easier to make them. That plastic cap idea is interesting, it will have to be tested to see if it is strong enough. If it holds up, it would make the CD lighter which is good. That LST2 from outlaw looks awsome on the track.

That plastic Kyosho gear/cap would have made my life so much easier!!!!

Yes if that gear is strong enough to make a cap out of it would be a cheap alternative and easy to work with. Although, $27 plus something like $7 shipping is not very expensive to get a complete LST XXL diff. All you need after that are the Traxxas shafts and a Traxxas output gear which you still need even with that plastic Kyosho gear.

hahaha waddup guys, only thing that I would do different with the plastic gear is use 4 posts instead of two and I know you cant see it in my pictures but there is actually four posts there.

well my LST diff is done..the mk1 anyway lol.
i have special tallents :lol: so it binds due to an off-center pin hole i drilled, i'm gonna leave it for now cause i just wanna use it then go back and fix it, then make mk2 from the other diff :wink:

hehehehe...
even my uber crappy center diff went epicly today!!
goes to show that even the biggest crappiest version of the mr-crash diff is idiot proof :rofl:

Does it have to be an XXL diff? Because I already have a few Muggy diffs laying around..I would rather just use one of them and save some money

No it doesn't have to be an XXL diff. I use that one because I like the metal inserts in there. But I have made center diffs using Losi LST2, Ofna Hyper 7, Thunder Tiger S3. I am sure there are many more diffs from other manufacturers that can be used. And you don't have to start with a center diff to make a center diff. An ordinary front or rear diff can be used as the ring gear would be modified to become a cap just like a spur gear from a center diff would be. After I modified spur gears and ring gears to make diff caps, I can say that the ring gear from a diff is easier to modify because there is less material to grind off than a spur gear.

Thanks mc...btw when you said you like the 'metal inserts' are you referring to the bevel gears or what?

oooooooohhhhhhhhh
i thoguht ALL LST breed diffs had them metal inserts crash:lol:
was confuzled as to why my lst diff didnt have any:lol:

The LST XXL diffs I got on ebay all had the Team Losi Heavy-Duty Differential Case which use metal thingies for the shafts of the spider gears. These diff cases are the same cases used for the Losi SmartDiff. The LST and LST2 diffs I worked with used the stock Team Losi diff case.

Oh I se what your talking about...the metal wedge inserts with the holes in them that hold the shafts of the spider gears. thanks!

I purchased and MC 1/8th Scale Diff!
 

First off i want to say that MC is a great person to deal with, he answered all my questions about the 1/8th scale CD and even gave me tips and help on installing it properly.

unfortunatly i dont have access to the machenery required to complete the 1/8th scale diff but would have jumped at the chance to make one myself if i did :mdr:

I purchased the MC 1/8th Scale diff and he shipped it out the same day, it came just as pictured in this thread carbon fiber disk and all. The diff itself when i got to look at it up close is made extremely well, all of the cuts and modifications needed to make the diff are top notch! :yes:

Just incase you are on the fence about getting one... DO IT! this cd makes a huge difference in my opinion. on to the reveiw!

WOW!!!! this thing is awesome! i filled it with 50k only, since i really only run 4s geared 18/54 and this is how a CD should work! it unloads a tiny bit to the front and will only wheelie if i from almost a dead stop punch it. this cd makes the truck handle so much better when it comes to onsteer push since its not unloading to the front causing the truck to lift the nose up, slide and not grip the ground. you can also see the difference when going in a straight line, it makes the truck hug the ground and stay planted not wasting that valuable mamba power!

I'm glad i made the investment this CD it is a must if you like going to the track, im sure i will be able to turn much better and clear jumps easier since i wont be unloading motor power to the front. Next test will be to see how well it holds up to all the abuse of brushless over time and at the track but i can say that this thing is beefy and looks like it would out far far oulast a stock e-revo CD not to mention work 100x better

thanks again MC!

Thank you rrgirgis for those kind words. Just so everyone knows, I'm not starting a company or anything like that. Every part needed and how to modify them is listed in detail in these forums so anyone can make one for themselves. But if someone as very limited tools or they just don't have the time and they really would like a to have an 8th scale CD for their ERevo then I can make one for them.

ok, all the parts have arrived...time to make diff mk2
the first one i made from your instructions i tryed to use what i already had, didnt work so good.
but even so...that diff was pretty darn good!!