Those rocks are what we in eastern Montana called scorio. Its a red rock that's some kind of by product of lava. Its found where you'd also find piles of lava rock. Its about 1/3 the weight of an equivelent "rock". They use a lot of it for roads - especially the oil companies. I fill as much in my truck as I can every time I go back to the ranch. It really makes our landscape unique here in the Seattle area.

Thanks for the input in my thread about the LST shocks on the Savage.

Now I have read your thread here, and what you say, it is no performance upgrade?

I have the traded my Summit to this Savage Flux, and as I (ofcourse) like to upgrade my trucks, I thought the LST shocks would be an improvement, over the ones I have. It cam with Integy piggybacks, but I also have the stockones.

Another issue is the space. I am running the Vantage carbon arms, and I don´t think they leave space for the LST shocks, right?

What upgrades do you suggest the most important. It allready have the bulletproof diffs, but maybe the FLM hybrid diffcasses and the ext. tvp´s?

Here is a link to the truck, as it is right now.

http://www.rcgalleri.dk/html/gal_vis...154&ipc=105807

Aren't you afraid about the ESC sitting so high up? I'll probably go with the TCS XL plates since they're cheaper and you can mount the ESC down low.

I dont think the LST shocks are as mucha performance upgrade as they are a "bling" thing. But I havent actually run it all that much so far - its the rainy season here. It looks like you could mount them using those arms. The LST shocks need to be offset from where the stock ones sit to accomodate their large diameter. On the rear, you need to eliminate the upper tie rod, which was accomplished by using the Integy carrier.

There aren't a whole lot of other performance upgrades one needs to do on this set up. Durability is actually quite high. You've done the diffs already - some have upgraded to the steel tranny gear (I haven't yet).

One thing is transferring some of your weight forward to keep the wheelies in check a little better. XL length TVP's would help this (as you've noted). Personally, if I had to do that again, I would use the FLM plates, but they weren't available at the time I did mine.
Most people seem to want a little wider stance on these, and there are several methods to do this. I chose the HPI mod with the extended outdrive cup.
The steering servo isn't the greatest - but it seems to function. Gee did a good thread on modding the Savage steering which seems to be very worthwhile.
Other than those, just drive the snot out of it until you start breaking things, then upgrade those as needed.

I'm not sure that I understand. What should I be afraid of with it sitting there?

Could it get crushed if you land upside down? (besides the "rollbar")

No - its between the roll bar and the shock towers.

OK, thanks for the answers. I probably buy som new wheels and the FLM ext. TVP´s to start with, and then take it from there.

When you get the TVP's, you will also want to order one of the longer XL drive shafts too....

Isn´t it the one that is included?

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...m45400&cat=109

Yep - I didn't know if FLM included them.

I finally managed to weigh this beast - found out my wife has a kitchen scale!
with two Zippy 3S batt's, it weighed a mere 13.2 lbs. Not as bad as I though it would, but still a beast.

Can you measure if there are any holes on the FLM tower that are 5.5cm apart? Like here on the stock towers:

http://img704.imageshack.us/img704/5414/savx30.jpg

Wonder if my Innovative RC LST mount for X towers will fit the FLM.

I just recently had the opportunity to run this rig (I know, not much time to play). Brother in law and I took my ramps and my 4 trucks (Flux, Muggy, 2 Slash 4x4) and his FLM Maxx out to a school field.
First truck I ran was the Flux. I was also using my new G3 3S 6K packs (they are a VERY tight fit in these cases....) so I was hoping to get a good run on them. About 6 jumps, and 10 minutes of run time, I noticed the rear end sitting kinda funny. Pulled it in and voila! - all 4 screws attaching the FLM towers were gone. Later inspection showed that the screws had just come out, not pulled or sheared, thankfully. I must not have put loctite on those screws. Anyway, more inspection showed some badly bent shock shafts and leaking shocks. Sorry, no pics of the carnage, I've been too lazy to get fresh batteries in the camera (and busy - got bathroom remodel done, and had a water main leak that I had to dig a trench for...yuk!).

Since I've done this conversion to LST shocks, I have had nothing but problems with the truck, and all are related to the shocks/FLM parts. It doesn't jump near as well as it used to (can't even get close to doing a mid air back flip anymore) and with my limited ability to run it, I want to take it back to "stock".

So I pulled off the rear FLM/LST set up completely, and put all the stock hardware back in. One thing I noticed, the diff mesh sure feels a lot nicer in the FLM case. I move the shims all over the place on the plastic, and just could not get it to be as smooth as it felt in the FLM.

On the front, I decided to keep the FLM case (spur of the moment decision) #1) because of the feel of the diff, and #2) to help with keeping the front end down a little, which was one of my frustrations with the stock set up.

I'm also adding the HPI sway bar kit to the truck. I found that the FLM diff cases and the sway bar kit are not compatible, and had to do some significant modifications to both parts to get them installed. I'll notify FLM of the issue, and hopefully they can accomodate that in the future.

I'm trying two different things to keep dirt out of the diffs also - I put some heavy auto grease around the inspection hole on the rear, and I used a light coat of silicone on the front.

Last change was swapping out the servo for a HI-tech 5990 (I think that's the number....older model?). Hopefully that will solve some of my steering quirks that I've seen since it was new.

Yes, I'll post up some pics later if I get time....:oh:

So yesterdays work on the truck was not without my standard group of issues, and then karma threw in a few more.

It began with me looking over the truck and noticing that something just wasn't right - I finally narrowed it down: Anyone see the problem? :lol:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=736

So I tore it back down, fixed that issue and moved on to the front where I still had to install the "new" Airtronics high torque servo. Had to cut out some of the servo box to get it to fit in (the wires were riding hard on the front side of the compartment). Then had to spend an hour digging through all my stuff for an Airtronics servo horn - finally found a Revo horn to fit. Flash forward to my test run - the Revo horn is about 1/4" shorter in length than the stock one was, and the turnbuckle that attachs to it is not adjustable. What affect should this have on my steering? I think its slower, and not as much throw.

BTW, here is crummy pic of the clearances i had to make to the FLM bulks and HPI sway bar kit on the front. 1) Had to remove most of the top of the hinge pin area. 2) Had to chamfer the "ears" that stick out the side of the FLM bulkhead (not sure what they are for - the stock HPI bulks have them too), and 3) had to drill/tap mounting holes for the sway bar cover.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=734

Now, back to my test run. First try, hit the throttle a little, and had lots of tire spin, but ZERO movement! DOH!!!!:oops: Freakin rookie move on my part not checking the diffs. Sat and looked at it for a time, trying to decide which end I felt like tearing apart this time. Decided to do the rear, as it would take less work. Well, come to find out that HPI has this little tiny tab in the diff case to keep you from putting the diff in backwards. So I grabbed a flat edge screw driver, and immediately had a custom HPI diff case!


Picked up a "sale" proline chebbie body for it and a Team Assosicated SC10 body. Got 'em in the paint booth now!

So this is now an unbuild thread? lol

Pretty much! Its all about trying things out, right?

+1 :)

I was looking around trying to find some info on the sway bars and FLM bulks and I found your thread.
Geesh, what the hell was FLM thinking when they designed these things, the sway kit was out prior to the bulks weren't they ?

Anyway, looks like a solid PITA to get them to work, is it worth the work tapping and modding the bulks . Did the handleing improve with the sways ???

Thanks,
J.

It was a PIA, and I'm not totally happy with the work i didn on it. If I'd had more time and been patient, it could have turned out better.

I think there was a slight amount of improvment - I didn't roll it quite as much as I used to. But, I think you'd have to have run your truck with and without on the same track to really make a quantitative analysis.......

I think I'm going to cut the little ears off on the sides of the bulks and mount the sway bar plastic gimmick lower. I'm going to do it tomorrow with a fresh outlook after some sleep. If it comes out nice I'll post a pic.

I don't think it was, no.

@ JThiessen; Got the front sway done, doesn't look to bad ?

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...866#post381866

Nice work on that Bondo. Should hold up.