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-   -   Novak HV4400 and 7XL BL Sensored System... (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2446)

Serum 03.02.2006 02:20 AM

That's one heavy sensor. ;)

One electrified t-maxx..

boss 302 03.02.2006 06:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Serum
That's one heavy sensor. ;)..

its huge!!

coolhandcountry 03.02.2006 07:22 AM

Well an rc with no brakes that goes 30 mph. You won't be able to stop it. When you crash at 30 mph it will break something. I was not refering to driveline. I was refering to many other vulnerible parts. That is a cool and neat idea. sensored feigao 7xl.

nitrostarter 03.02.2006 11:03 AM

WHen I got my 18120, it was on boat programming and it has no brakes. Its not bad once I got used to it. My output gears are still going strong. I only trashed one because my Rx pack was dying and It wasn't shifting completely.

I wasn't recommending this, just throwing it out there.

Rtsbasic 03.02.2006 05:44 PM

Nice work, I don't see any real disadvantage to sensored as a technology, the products just aren't there yet though (for more than 6 cells anyway). Looks like you really know your stuff, although it is quite a bit of dead weight to be carrying.

Is that a T-Maxx chassis? How hard is it to transplant one onto an Emaxx? I guess the front and rears are mostly the same, its just the tranny and servo's i'm concerned about. I'm on too much of a budget to spend $200 on a chassis but T-Maxx ones are nice and cheap :)

coolhandcountry 03.02.2006 07:00 PM

ARe you running the same gear on each motor? If so what would happen if you ran different sizes?

GriffinRU 03.02.2006 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nitrostarter
WHen I got my 18120, it was on boat programming and it has no brakes. Its not bad once I got used to it. My output gears are still going strong. I only trashed one because my Rx pack was dying and It wasn't shifting completely.

I wasn't recommending this, just throwing it out there.

I thought you did that with Novak's HV4400 ESC...

Quote:

Rtsbasic
Nice work, I don't see any real disadvantage to sensored as a technology, the products just aren't there yet though (for more than 6 cells anyway). Looks like you really know your stuff, although it is quite a bit of dead weight to be carrying.

Is that a T-Maxx chassis? How hard is it to transplant one onto an Emaxx? I guess the front and rears are mostly the same, its just the tranny and servo's i'm concerned about. I'm on too much of a budget to spend $200 on a chassis but T-Maxx ones are nice and cheap
Advantage is huge in starting torque department. Well, extra 200g for now. Later will be less (only sensor part) and Feigao motors sooner or later will be available.

It is E-Maxx chassis
But I've done T-Maxx chassis conversions earlier; it is quite simple .

Quote:

coolhandcountry
ARe you running the same gear on each motor? If so what would happen if you ran different sizes?
Same number of teeth is a must, otherwise synchronization would be lost. But you can play a little bit with timing (+/- tooth or more), I will put more info over weekend.

Artur

Serum 03.03.2006 03:59 AM

@rtsbasic;

did you see this flm chassis? it's nice and fair priced. it's meant for an e-maxx.

GriffinRU 03.03.2006 11:58 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Serum
@rtsbasic;

did you see this flm chassis? it's nice and fair priced. it's meant for an e-maxx.

Yes, I saw it and almost bought it...
But once you tried REVO... E-Maxx is only a reminder of what was then :)

Build 4*4, 6*6 (in 2+4 and 2+2+2), 8*8 - T/E-Maxx is a great platform...

Artur

GriffinRU 03.07.2006 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RC-Monster Mike
Artur,

Are you stripping the output gear in the tranny or the spur gear? If the output gear is stripping on hard brakes, replace the idler gear and you should be ok. Over time, the idlers develop a sharp back side, which cuts the outpur gear on hard brakes. Look at the idlers and see if the back of the teeth are sharp. A single speed also helps a lot.

After fixing Tranny with new gears and polishing sharp edges from idlers... now my CVD's are history.

Artur

coolhandcountry 03.07.2006 08:11 PM

What happened to the cvds? What kind where they? I have broke up a few with a 7xl.

GriffinRU 03.07.2006 08:35 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by coolhandcountry
What happened to the cvds? What kind where they? I have broke up a few with a 7xl.

http://cgi.ebay.com/RDLogics-CVD-6PC...QQcmdZViewItem

Artur

coolhandcountry 03.07.2006 09:44 PM

I have broke them. My brother had mip and broke them. I have yet to break the ue ones. Seem to be much stronger. The rd logics look nice and are nice with low power but the xl cans can break them.

GriffinRU 03.09.2006 08:59 PM

Timing and Setup
 
Sorry for delay,

To setup sensored HV controller to work with sensoreless motor you need to provide sensors feedback. In my case I choose to use brushless sensored motor which comes with HV system. (Later sensored BL motors should be available…)
Installation of both motors requires to accomplish that task, shaft connection would be done via spur gear and pinion gears (master and slave motors must have pinions with the same number of teeth).
Step by step:
- mount both motors to tranny mount
- connect motor wires together
- spin one motor shaft and check for slave shaft
In most cases it should be easy to match, if not get as close as you can.
- install spur gear
- connect with power meter 6 cells to ESC
- unsolder Novak's motor and solder New motor to Novak's ESC
- turn on power
- Push throttle until wheels start spinning or motor wires start moving (turn of ESC) forward and measure current (remember value).
- Reverse throttle, until the same parameters above, and measure current.
If forward and reverse currents equals each other then timing set correct and no further adjustments required. If not, then adjusting one tooth at a time, with measuring will help to find 0 degrees mark. Setting to zero degree mark is must if reverse option would be used and not if forward only, but less teeth on pinion fewer adjustments to timing can be made due to the Novak’s ESC automatic timing adjustment at middle RPM. Setting too aggressive can force motor to reverse…. Not really and not good, just reminder.

Now when 0 timing found you can mark both shafts, by putting ruler on both shafts and marking shaft with permanent marker or scratching it, whatever works to identify shafts relation. After that you can take setup apart and put back together without going through process described above again.

With 7XL and 12 cells I was able to make motor move in both directions with current draw as low as 0.6A. One tooth left-right with 18 teeth pinion can easily change this ration to 4A and 0.8A respectfully. So do not be scared, but be careful and watch for moving wires (not good).

Artur

P.S. Open for questions and help.

coolhandcountry 03.09.2006 09:32 PM

That sounds like a lot of work. I think it would be easier to wait on the sensored motors. They shouldn't be long. I think more companies will go sensored after a while.

BrianG 03.09.2006 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GriffinRU
Sorry for delay,

To setup sensored HV controller to work with sensoreless motor you need to provide sensors feedback. In my case I choose to use brushless sensored motor which comes with HV system. (Later sensored BL motors should be available…)
Installation of both motors requires to accomplish that task, shaft connection would be done via spur gear and pinion gears (master and slave motors must have pinions with the same number of teeth).
Step by step:
- mount both motors to tranny mount
- connect motor wires together
- spin one motor shaft and check for slave shaft
In most cases it should be easy to match, if not get as close as you can.
- install spur gear
- connect with power meter 6 cells to ESC
- unsolder Novak's motor and solder New motor to Novak's ESC
- turn on power
- Push throttle until wheels start spinning or motor wires start moving (turn of ESC) forward and measure current (remember value).
- Reverse throttle, until the same parameters above, and measure current.
If forward and reverse currents equals each other then timing set correct and no further adjustments required. If not, then adjusting one tooth at a time, with measuring will help to find 0 degrees mark. Setting to zero degree mark is must if reverse option would be used and not if forward only, but less teeth on pinion fewer adjustments to timing can be made due to the Novak’s ESC automatic timing adjustment at middle RPM. Setting too aggressive can force motor to reverse…. Not really and not good, just reminder.

Now when 0 timing found you can mark both shafts, by putting ruler on both shafts and marking shaft with permanent marker or scratching it, whatever works to identify shafts relation. After that you can take setup apart and put back together without going through process described above again.

With 7XL and 12 cells I was able to make motor move in both directions with current draw as low as 0.6A. One tooth left-right with 18 teeth pinion can easily change this ration to 4A and 0.8A respectfully. So do not be scared, but be careful and watch for moving wires (not good).

Artur

P.S. Open for questions and help.

That sounds pretty straightforward. I wouldn't even thought about the timing, but it makes sense once you explain it. I was telling one of the guys at my LHS about what you did and he was pretty interested once I explained it to him a few times (wasn't getting it at first). Have you tried to pull the windings out of the slave motor to save a little bit of weight? Of course, you'd have to be careful not to wreck the hall-effect sensor...

GriffinRU 03.12.2006 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianG
That sounds pretty straightforward. I wouldn't even thought about the timing, but it makes sense once you explain it. I was telling one of the guys at my LHS about what you did and he was pretty interested once I explained it to him a few times (wasn't getting it at first). Have you tried to pull the windings out of the slave motor to save a little bit of weight? Of course, you'd have to be careful not to wreck the hall-effect sensor...

Thank you, I was trying to put it that way ..:)

I ordered from E-Bay horizontally magnetazed neodym rings and will try to build custom sensor feedback. Taking HV4400 motor apart, I think is just waste of time. If you creative then use it as generator to keep your RX power pack happy :)

7XL on 12 cells just slow... and brakes need to be trimmed on TX side

I need to replace it with smaller motor (Hacker C50 14.4 is coming) and ditch 2 speed tranny :) (Personal opinion!)

Artur

P.S. Hey guys do I miss something? I run stock (shimmed) diffs and trashing CVD's... Doesn't sound right or ...

squeeforever 03.12.2006 06:26 PM

If im understanding you correctly, your trashing cvd's because there not the best in the world. There actually kind of weak. The RD Logic's are actually one of the weaker cvds. The MIP's should stand up to most power that most people will run, but I would recommend the UE's.

coolhandcountry 03.12.2006 07:35 PM

To me the mip seems no stronger than the rd logic. The ue are far better in my opinion.

SpEEdyBL 03.13.2006 03:04 PM

I think this was my idea...

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/s...d.php?t=184553

Now where are my royalties? (J/K):005:

Serum 03.13.2006 03:11 PM

Can't you hear me clapping Speedy?

boss 302 03.13.2006 03:13 PM

serum i think you need to clap louder, MUCH LOUDER!!!! lol

Serum 03.13.2006 03:23 PM

got purple hands...

GriffinRU 03.13.2006 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpEEdyBL
I think this was my idea...

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/s...d.php?t=184553

Now where are my royalties? (J/K):005:


:)
Electric motor was invented long time ago...
By Nikola Tesla...
:)

And your idea wasn't quite the same. Yours was to run 2 motors from 1 ESC (I published tons of info how to acomplish that and why not for brushed/BL sensored/BL sensoreless motors (On Russian web)), mine how to make good sensoreless motor run in sensored configuration, where torque comes first.

Artur

GriffinRU 03.18.2006 09:10 PM

Final version with Hacker C50 MAXX 14.4V Motor
 
It was interesting to match motor phases; they were not in the same order as feigao or novak. This is Ok for sensoreless ESC but doesn’t match sensors map in sensored configuration. So if you connect two motor together and one spins but another only moves shaft back and forth then you need to change phases firing order, by swapping wires. Do not be confused with swapping motor wires to change motor direction, similar but not the same.

http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...=post&id=27345
http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...=post&id=27346

Artur

coolhandcountry 03.18.2006 09:38 PM

How does the hacker do on it.

GriffinRU 03.19.2006 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coolhandcountry
How does the hacker do on it.

Works better then I was expecting. Lost some torque but still has no problems with lifting front wheels at any speed and any gear. 8-10 minutes and 12 3800 cells are done, ESC temp - cold, Motor - 65C. (It was 7C outside as well :)).

72 spur 18 pinions (66 spur and hacker C50 do not work with emaxx tranny with 18 and below teeth pinions). Performance matches hackerbrushless website numbers plus has nice smooth low-end torque. But not as good crawler as 7XL :)

Artur

GriffinRU 04.22.2006 09:26 AM

Now it should be plug and play :)
 
http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...=post&id=30745

Artur

MetalMan 04.22.2006 10:11 AM

Feigao sensored?!? Are these readily available, or special order? Make sure to let us know how it does!

Serum 04.22.2006 10:44 AM

What is it Artur?

it has got a 1/8th shaft?

But it sure looks like a feigao..

coolhandcountry 04.22.2006 12:24 PM

Sweet. Have you got to try this one out? I am curious to how it does.

GriffinRU 04.22.2006 02:08 PM

It is Feigao 6XL with 5mm and flat spot from factory.
Yes, it was custom order, but they can be ordered through US distributors as well.
Right now I have some problems with sensors, but I am trying to resolve it.

Artur

maxxdude1234 04.22.2006 02:15 PM

Does that work with the HV-Maxx controller? I would have thought a 6XL would be a bit too much for an HV-Maxx controller..

GriffinRU 04.22.2006 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by maxxdude1234
Does that work with the HV-Maxx controller? I would have thought a 6XL would be a bit too much for an HV-Maxx controller..

Yes, it should be alright. We discussed current ratings earlier in the thread. And I am not planning to draw more then 60A from 12cells (currently, while testing, I can see that ESC can handle 80-130A with no problems). But later, upon success, I will do something with HV ESC to increase cell count :) And hopefully we will have a nice selection of sensored motors to substitute HV-Maxx system motor.

Artur

MetalMan 04.22.2006 08:42 PM

If you can get all of this work together, then I won't hesitate to run sensored! Good luck figuring out the sensor issue.

crazyjr 04.22.2006 09:49 PM

Hey GriffinRU, I just recently aquired a Novak HV-Maxx brushless system and within minutes of running it for the first time the Magnet slipped on the shaft. As i fixed it with JB Weld( no warranty) I tried to find the sensors and couldn't. Could you explain how the sensors work with nothing to key into on either the magnet or the shaft? When i think sensors i think revo Optidrive, but i'm sure it could be a solid state setup as well. So could you please enlighten an old newb? thanks

Serum 04.23.2006 03:55 AM

Yeah Artur!! this would be awesome.

I would love to drive a 10XL on 18 cells sensored, it is possible to get the hvmaxx esc modified to run on an higher voltage, right?

GriffinRU 04.23.2006 09:25 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by crazyjr
Hey GriffinRU, I just recently aquired a Novak HV-Maxx brushless system and within minutes of running it for the first time the Magnet slipped on the shaft. As i fixed it with JB Weld( no warranty) I tried to find the sensors and couldn't. Could you explain how the sensors work with nothing to key into on either the magnet or the shaft? When i think sensors i think revo Optidrive, but i'm sure it could be a solid state setup as well. So could you please enlighten an old newb? thanks

BL motors use magnetic feedback. 3 sensors, based on Hall effect, placed 120degress apart generate signal for ESC everytime magnets pole passes by. Attached picture shows Novaks sensors, located inside can.

Artur

GriffinRU 04.23.2006 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Serum
Yeah Artur!! this would be awesome.

I would love to drive a 10XL on 18 cells sensored, it is possible to get the hvmaxx esc modified to run on an higher voltage, right?

16 cells, even without mods, should be fine, using correct wiring (6 cell on capacitor side, the rest on opposite). But more then 16, I need to investigate this possibility, now hopefully (still working on sensors) I have a motor to play with.

After solving initial problems, future upgrades/modifications would be addressed as usual. :)

Artur

Serum 04.23.2006 09:47 AM

16 is nice. what is up with the 6cells on the capacitor side? is it a BEC issue? or are these cells used for feeding the processorboard?

Keep us updated please, this is a very interesting project.

Are those sensored feigao's easy to get?


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