You don't want a wobble bearing. Then the shaft comes wobble. A wobble pinion shaft is not good.

No hard feeling's Captain. But when a part doesn't fit like it's supposed to, there is no other option then to send it back for a replacement.

Did you try to warm the caseing up useing a hair dryer?(not heating the bearing)

As I said earlier, the left case of the hybrid is not exactly the same as the right case. When I screw the two cases together, the pinion's bearing hardly moves. It seems as if its being under severe pressure ( the left case is pressing the cage of the bearings and the balls are hardly rolling). I really dont want to wait for another 10 days befor I could see a lovely truck in front of me. This is not my dream truck, yet, but its only the beginnig.

If any of you has something else besides the heating method..... Would a high grade sand paper do the trick? once again, please, squeez your minds and bring some ideas to solve the problem of a striving captain.

maybe on a dremel - if you have one accessable. im not sure though...

Could try a dremel. But be sure to not take off to much material.

Is there a difference between a dremel and a drill?

Also, is it possible to get the front hybrid alone without the rear for half the price ( the regular price of the whole set) from Mike?

How can I trim the hole? its a bit difficult since there are two places to hold the dual bearings which the pinion goes through.

Dremel is more presise and it wheigh's less.

I'm pretty sure Mike can get you the front only.

Okay. Now I want to poolish the UE components which are a bit like rusty, espicially the UE servo saver. Do you think that the Easy Off oven cleaner would return it to its shiny form? caustic soda is hazardous.

No, that is to remove anodize, just take some polish and your dremel.

Well, sorry, but how to polish?!!

Get a polishing bit for the dremel ( looks similar to a Q-tip sorta ) - with some metal polish - and put the polish on the part you want to polish and have at it with the dremel.

I found that MOthers polish works great. You can find it at your local aouto parts store.http://www.detailsupplydepot.com/scr...sid=0305172249

The mothers work ok. The best stuff is at a truck stop. I got some from there it is called heavy metal polish. It is the best stuff i have tried yet. Just look at all the aluminum and how it shines on the semis.

Take a look at the right half of the bulk. The bearing is perfectly fitting the bulk's hole:

It's not the same with the left, though I've pressed it as hard as I can:

I think it would best to send it back. It seems to be off somewhere. JMO

I,d rather keep it and get a new one. The one I have will keep it for my merciless experiments.

So how is this project persisting?

Not very smooth, Sylvester. I managed to build the single speed gearbox and the strobe slipper. Not that much. I need some shock oil to proceed with the shock assembly. Many FLM parts needed lots of trimming, grinding and so on, just to let the UE parts fall in place. I'll possibly do an order next week containing a new front flm bulkless, a 1950/10 motor, pinion, spacers, connectors and wires.

Can I use silicone shock oils for the spyder differentials?
I'll use 50wt oil for the shocks and 80wt oil for the front diff and 60 for the rear.

Nope - you have to use diff oil - shock oil is way too lite for diff applications....

Would this do the job? I could not find a 80wt for the front.:

What's the difference between a 1000 and a 10000 and a 100000wt? how do they affect the performance of the diff?

The stiffer or higher number means less diff action. The thicker oil tries to make sure both tires turn closer to the same speed.

ohhh good to know thanks....

Well, what weight of diff oil do you recommend for a truck with full aluminum parts and a 1950 motor as well as 20 cells of batts? I want it to be fast and controlable.

7 k front 5 k rear.

You mean 7k= 7000 or 70000?

k = 1000

I got some mugens 4k today for like 5 bucks at my local hobby shop.

LOL, Captain... this sounds contradictional...

'i want my truck to be controllable, i use 20 cells......' pretty funny sentence if you ask me..

Why not having a fast truck at 24V and controllable at the same time?! everything is possible, you know.

C'mon captain..

You know what i mean..

2000 watts on a few lbs is controlable, it just takes a gentle finger..

If it stays in a straight path at full telt, thats very controllable for me.:dft009:

Again.. a gentle finger will help..

No other way around it, your gonna need some 'sticky' tires to stay from a stand still, just be gentle.

Ill take this one Serum - And a gentle finger - LOL

Lol.

I need no gentle finger, gentlemen- I need a fast truck ( and still, controllable). And BTW, if you have some suggestions regarding my diff and shock oils, then please share it with me. Otherwise, this subject would cause me nothing, but nausea.

New Subject:

I need these following items to complete my truck and I could not get in touch with Mike?!! I e-mail him at mike@rc-monster.com, but my server said that my e-mail was delayed then it said a day later that a failure occurred while the message was being on its way:

- LEHNER 1950/10 MOTOR
- FASTLANE MACHINE FRONT HYBRID BULK
- UE 100.5MM REAR DRIVE SHAFT
- UE CUP
- UE WHITE THICK SPACER FOR SUPERSHOCK
- 8MM SPACERS FOR 7.5 DIFF'S PINION
- DEANS ULTRA CONNECTORS*2 BAGS
- 3.5MM BULLET TYPE CONNECTORS*2 BAGS
- DEANS WET NOODLES 12 GAUGE WIRES
- CERAMIC BEARING KIT
- A SOLDERING STATION

What to do, mates? surely some of you faced the same problem.

with 20 cells and a spastic finger your truck will die.

Go figure captain..