Small Update
 

A little more progress this afternoon, Was able to drill holes and counter sink them all and install the CD and motor mount.
I know the top plate on the CD is rough, I will finish this later.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...P1130003-1.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...P1130001-1.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...P1130002-1.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...P1130004-1.jpg

Now that these 2 peices are installed I can think ahead a little more about where battery,ESC,RX are going ?
These are a couple ideas I'm toying with, Any suggestions are always welcomed.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...P1130005-1.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...P1130006-1.jpg

Anyone have a link or have knowledge of the Muggy Steering mod for the LST2 ??? It would be MUCH appreciated.

Ehh, look in my threads, it is under project x and not titled 6x6 but it is the 6x6 lst. I will find it later tonight when I have more time.

As for placement, you are going to want that battery up front... Too much rear weight and the handling will be crap. Maybe flip the chassis around so that the motor faces the other way?

Awesome idea James !
That might be what I'm looking for. I'll be experimenting with that tonight.
All I really have to do is drop out the steering assembly and swap ends with it and rebuild from there.

Glad I am good for something...

I've got the same thing in mind for my project, that's why I was asking about longer cvd's in another thread. Bondo is making his own cvd's but I was after an off the shelf item. When I get done I hope to have LCG and more weight over the front.... good for climbing lumps of dirt.

Pretty sure I replied in your cvd thread...

Yes you did reply Linc, thanks.

Did you manage to reverse the chassis Bondo? Looks to me like you could just spin the the rails ( chassis braces ) and it will work. Hope there's enough room for the servo!

Close but no cigar, I tried it many different ways but there was always something falling short, even flipped the chassis and no dice. I have decided to to stick to my original design make another lower chassis plate that will allow the motor to be closer to the side rail and off set the diff a little. This will allow the battery to ride on the side parraelle opposite of the motor. Hopefully it'll be balanced L-R and F-B this way, or close as possible ?

Also got some bad news today, My buddy whom owns the LHS didn't order my parts Tuesday as I was told he would. But they were ordered today and should have them Tuesday. :neutral:

I'm stuck at a stand still till I get the 45t pinion because it will determin where the CD goes. Sooo everything is going in a box and I will start on another prodject. I have another LST2 that I just received my XXL chassis for and will swap everything over and check diffs and change shock oils. So I have something to do for Friday afternoon anyway. :yipi:

Ok, XXL chassis installed. Holy Crapola,The extra lenth sure killed the turning radius big time. Other than that it looks totally bitchin and hasn't had any adverse effects on performance. I have only tested in front of the house but seems more stable and and rides better. The bare chassis didn't seem much bigger next to the stock lenth other than the inch of extra lenth. But when fully assembled it looks beastly huge, looks much more intimidating fer sure.
I scored the XXL chassis for 15.00 delivered, couldn't ask for a easier big impact mod for the money.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...S/P1150002.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...S/P1150003.jpg

search for my project jump truck

i had no problem getting everything to work with a center diff mounted on the lower plate

Nor am I, A lot of what I've done so far has ben guess work because I lack the parts I need to get it all together for a proper mock up.. I also decided on a slight revamp of my original design to allow the Lipo where I need it.

I had a similar idea in mind that I thought was sound, after seeing your thread again I've decide that's the avenue I will pursue fer sure, Thanks !

Looks great! How is the balance w/the battery positioned where it is?

Looking good! I almost bought one of those XXL chassis today off ebay, but I had my money tied up in some new arms and skid plate auctions instead. Looks like I won the auctions (just ended). Got a full set of Hardcore racing arms and Titanium skid for it (about 70 bucks shipped total - decent buy??). Now to get the diffs. I think I might try to use my center diff from the Hellfire and my RCM mount for the 8T....not sure if they are close enough in height/bearing size to use yet.

Thanks Guys,
The balance is as best as it'll get without a chassis revamp of components. It's actually pretty dang good when jumping, it's just that when the trucks finds traction even w/the Slipper set properly It'll wheely a bit much for my flavor. Can't expect much less from a 5s lipo tho ?

NOT argueing or anything but,
I put the Muggy shock bodies next to my aluminum LST shocks and the Muggy bods are 1/4" shorter.

Chassis is all together and content where motor and CD is located, plenty of room for a battery tray on the other side parraellel(can never remember how to spell?)with chassis opposite of motor so I'm hopeing for a great balance L to R.

Building the shocks and diffs today and hopeing for a proper mock up tonight sometime. Will post pics if time allows.

I guess it just depends on what shock bodies you use. The alum adjustable kind, or threaded? I have full set of Muggy Shocks w/ Alum non-threaded shafts lying around. Maybe I'll sell them?

I'm gonna transfer my E-LST2 stuff over to the XXL chassis when I can muster up the energy to want to tackle that! It's not hard, but I just went thru all that w/ the LST2.

I know what to expect w/ the XXL since I have an almost brand new sitting here for sale! It is a bit more stable, but I didn't notice the radius being much different. The difference between the two are very slight, and not enuff to make me want to race out and start swapping. But it is something I'll do eventually.

J

Not long after posting I got to looking at my radio and I realized I was able to get some more EPA out of it. So your correct to a point, my trun radius is about normal now, still the longer chassis does widen it up a little.

COOL!! Yes, there is a slight difference, but it shouldn't have been shockingly so.

Is there any difference between a XXL chassis and an LST other than the length? Looks like I'm going to end up making my own chassis plates so I can fit the E-Maxx tranny in there in the right spot.

Strange, I broke a muggy shock body and use a aftershock shock body to replace it. I will have to look and see if one is longer than the other... I will break out the calipers and report back, I have a few different lst shocks hanging around.

None that I see, it's stretched 0.5 in front of the trans and 0.5 behind. The rest looks the same.

Linc, when I say 1/4" thats just eye balling a Muggy body holding next to a LST shock fully dressed with spring etc. (Looks like a 1/4", could be less)
And the package does have a different part # specifially saying Muggy on label also.

Right, just the length. But pardon me for asking... why would you want to use an EMaxx tranny over the Losi tranny?

No need to spend extra $$ on a Dude mount, simplicity and cost I assume ?

Yeah, but you loose the great tranny, and the layout with the stock tranny and tdr mount is great...

The lst tranny is stronger than the emaxx tranny, plus it does not have to handle the weight of the motor. The slipper design is better too, IMO. I would like the top shaft redesigned for use of the tdr hub and some of the length removed. I will do this with my lst builds, just need to get some time...

Agreed 100%.
I have yet to break a LST tranny since my first one 6yrs ago, still useing that transmission in my other truck !!

I have a few friends whom have broken a gear in the tranny but they drive like complete morons with locked slippers.

i was just thinking about makeing a new top shaft too

i guess great minds think alike:lol:


the emaxx tranny works great too, my buddy did his conversion with one because when the got his truck used it didnt come with a tranny

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...s/DSC03536.jpg

it held up fine with steel idlers and locked in second, hell its the reason i got into the lst in the first place

Update w/Pictures
 

I decided not to go RCing Sunday so I didn't have to spend the day preping the trucks.
I got a lot done on the build today, All the shocks are built but not without a major problem. I forgot to order the red silicone Orings for the shock bodys DOH ! Went to Napa, No silicone ones !Dam, I bought black rubber ones but a couple sizes to small. When stretched over the body they thinned out. Little green slime and the caps went on like butter. One of Losi's better designs, LST shocks are the easiest shocks to build hands down. The diffs are out and disasembled and cleaned, ready for new diff lube. Thinking of going with a standard track set up, 7K Front and 3K rear. The Smart Diff is installed as well as the 45T plastic pinion. The biggest acomplishmnet today was the battery tray. Weighs nothing and should work well. Once the Lipos are examined and reshrinked they and the tray will get hook and loop to assist in battery retainment also.

Once the diffs are rebuilt and installed in the bulks I will be starting on the center CVD's. Hope to get lucky and have at least 1, save on cutting and welding.
I had Dynamite brand lower aluminum arms on the this truck befor the build, still trying to decide to go with them or back to plastic. I beat the shit out of the truck and haven't hurt them yet, so they have proven themselves. But durabilty worth the extra weight on the track ?


http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...S/P1230005.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...S/P1230006.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...S/P1230007.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...S/P1230008.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...S/P1230011.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...S/P1230012.jpg

Looking good bondoballz! May I suggest a piece of plastic to protect the exposed side of the lipo? Just in case...

Layout looks very good, the motor mount should lower the cg quite a bit. Did you end up going with muggy towers and shocks?

James, My ballz and I thank you sir.

I was thinking a lenth of lexan with 90 bend to cover top and side under the velcro.
Yes, Muggy Towers and shocks.

I'm getting giggly cause I'm getting close now ! I'm gonna have it all done and still waiting for the body. Horizon dicked me, they sent a Losi 8T body with the giant holes in it. No Way ! So I reorderd and got a Proline Slipstream cause the Proline Bulldog body is out of stock now. Will not arrive till next week, Dammit

F*CK, Just realized Horizon only sent 1 tower ??? SHIZ, Now I'm behind all the further. Horizon has great customer service but the folks filling orders really blow sometimes. This is the 5th time they shorted or botched my order one way or another.:whip:

and thats why i buy from amain, cheeper and i havent had any problems

Damn its looking good. I can't wait to get my LST built.

It really looks like a good layout, I hope it performs for you.

As much as it sounds like a bitching, I'm actually very fortunate to be able to order all my stuff through the LHS I work for and get everything at their cost. Dissapointing none the less.

Something different! Dont you know, EVERYONE has an LST with a stock tranny or a center diff.......!!!!

The reading I've done on conversions tells me that getting spur/pinion mesh with "good" gearing is difficult to say the least with the stock tranny. And since I plan on running the 1520 in it, this will be even more difficult.
I also dont like the cross wise orientation of the tranny. Anytime you run your power 90 degrees, you loose efficiency.
I had been leaning towards a center diff, but after pricing the muggy diff parts on A-main, I was up over 100 bucks just for the Front and Rear. Bought a new 3905 maxx tranny for 40 bucks, and I can run the stock diff's.

I have yet to hear of anyone having significant issues with a new Revo/Maxx tranny. I love the Revo spec slipper system - but I must admit, my experience with it is in my revo conversion, which is probably half the weight that this LST is going to be. I have zero experience with the LST slipper - so I know not what I am missing!! Somewhere down in the Man Pit, I have a Strobe set up, so that might find its way out of the dark on this build...

I'm viewing this as a trial run - long term I'll probably go back to a center diff. Money has been a little tight lately, and this offers a fairly inexpensive route to put this together.

The cases crack near the mounts, motor plates bend, and you have to use modded mgt gears to run mod1 pitch gears. Granted the 1st 2 issues are when you use a heavy motor and jump the truck. Not many people do that...

As far as the stock tranny not being as effecient due to the bevel gears, well you are most likely right. However it is stronger, and offers other advantages as well. No torque roll due to the cossways mounted motor either. The tdr mount is much stronger than the emaxx motor plate, no doubt about that. Plus you do not have to mod the chassis to use the tdr mount. So 40-50 bucks for an emaxx tranny plus chassis modding vs around 110 for the tdr mount and single speed hub... It is worth the extra for the tdr stuff, IMO.

And the strobe setup you refer to, is that the slipper? It only fits the old emaxx tranny, not the new one.

People have succes with the new emaxx tranny, and I do like it, and have used/will continue to use it in my custom builds. But it is not superior in any way to the stock Lst setup.

Got the center CVD's done today, what a bitch making them true !
I decided to go with the stock arms rather than the lower Dynamites for the first runs I see how durable it'll be. Should be just fine and much lighter ?
Aside from missing a shock tower I'm gonna start a final assembly tonight and see where I get ?
Still want to make a brace to support the CD assembly, nothing special, just something keep it steady for frontal impacts.
I bought a used 2000KV Tekin motor from a fellow RCM member and I think it might be the better power plant for this application, open to sugestions and opinions ????

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...S/P1240001.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...S/P1240002.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...S/P1240003.jpg

As I work on getting all my electronics in I will be blacking out all the wires to help make everything nice and tidy. In case anyone is wondering what servo I'm gonna run it's a JR-DS8711.

And I definitley plan on being one of those people - jumps and ensueing carnage are what this is all about!

I wasn't aware that the strobe only fit the old tranny. Oh well - guess I'll donate that to my brother in law.

I'm not sure that I will be using the maxx motor mount plate - I may end up putting the motor on a seperate mount so it faces the tranny and lines up down the center of the rig. I'm also not sure that I'll run Mod1. I have some of those modded MGT spurs somewhere in the pile. But all my other rigs run 32P, and I may just try to be consistent with them.

ps - I would never venture to say that maxx tranny is in any way superior to the LST tranny - since I dont have any experience with that tranny.

can't you just use nitro revo spurs on an e-revo/e-maxx tranny? that's what I used on my buddy's rustler to run mod1, works fine.

Is the top of your diff mount the same as the upper level of the bulks? You seem to have a bit of cf lying around- custom make a top plate with a narrow part running past the servo back to the diff mount.

I was in the middle of figureing that out when you posted. Heres what I was thinking.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...S/P1240008.jpg

I don't know whether the FDR would be acceptable or not, but nitro Revo's run 34-40T spurs as not much else fits those trucks. But I do know they are alot smaller diameter than the 58-68T availible for the E-maxx/revo trans.