I'd tap that.

The LST that is..

Looks nice Jeff. That's a 1520 my little eyes spy...correct

Huh???? I think you need to get out of the house!!!

Why yes it is....!
I'm wondering if I'm running out of RPM's with the 1520. I charged up the pack, and ran it again. Same story on the speed. Probably tops of 30mph. Speed calc has it hitting 50 with my gearing, and I'm getting nowhere near that. Might try to completely reset the MMM too....

Hey, you guys that have Muggy's. Do your diff's sit kinda loose in the "bulkheads"? Mine have about 1/8th inch of vertical movement in them.

:lol: in other words that's one beautiful truck.

yea the diff cases do rock a bit in the bulks, but never have been a problem, i have the lst towers on mine and am yet to run it with that setup, i need longer battery straps before i can run it.

Want me to put some chrome rim on it....kinda like RC lingerie....!!!:angel:

I saw that you put the LST towers on yours, and that gave me the idea to do the same. My shocks on the Mug actually rub on the bulkhead a little bit.

as did mine also stiffens up the suspension, i can drop it from much higher without it bottoming out with the lst towers plus ebay is flooded with them.

LOL :lol::rofl::rofl:

I wrap a piece of electrical tape around the front end of the diffs so they fit tight in the bulkheads.

What Neu packs are you running? The 4100EP packs fit well in the losi battery tray (perfect actually) and I only had to drill one hole in the chassis to put the tray in there.

And yes it was a nice day today here in the Pacific Northwest (first day of spring, Yah). I had better get my Muggy back together so I can try out my 1520!

im still rocking the medusa 80mm 2000kv with great results but the 1520 would be a great step up.

Looks good JT. Nice and clean.

Jeff, are you calculating with Muggy diffs? The ratio is taller(slower) than LST.

What pinion are you using? And 6s I take it?

I wonder whats up with the speed....

i can go as fast as the tires will let me with a stock spur and still be under 16t pinion.

I used muggy diffs, 50/14 on the gears, 5S for battery, and 1/2" tire balloon. Gave me 50.XX mph on the calculator. Maybe something is wrong in the calculator....cause the truck acts like its fine, just topped out well before I'm past 1/4 throw on the trigger.

Have you reprogrammed the MMM?

My personal preference is to use 0-.1 on the ballooning. However, I do think 14/50 is geared a tad on the low side. a 16-18t pinion should really wake it up!

Well, thanks to Hootie, I seem to have a plethora of pinions to pick from. No, I haven't touched the programming on this one since the last official software update came out (I haven't put any of the Beta stuff on it). I'm definitly in agreement on moving up to about a 18.
I must have had a number wrong the last time I ran the calculator, 'cause here is what i got this time, using a 18t pinion. Which would be absolutely perfect...

I'm actually thinking about finally pickup up an Eagletree system. I found out they are actually just down the road from me....The USB car unit looks good enough for what I need, and from what I understand, I'll need the brushless motor kit with it. Anyone have experience with that unit?

Nice! I was thinking you were running 6s as well.

Yes, looks like the 18t pinion should really wake it up. I thought 14/50 sounded a bit slow as well.

Yep - ran it with the 18 and its much better. Might even jump up a little higher yet, but I want to run it hard through a pack frist and see what temps look like.

I swapped out the shocktowers, looked at it for a bit, tried a bunch of different body styles on it, and didn't like any of it. So I put the olds back on and just moved the shock to the inner mount hole. I'm happier with it like this, but had to try it.

Well, M'in Law is in the hospital, and i'm taking off for Montana in a week, so probably wont do much on these for a bit. Would be great to take this back to the ranch to run, but, they still have a foot of snow. With it warming up, its gonna be a sloppy mess working the moo cows this year.

Those red 7075 T6 TRX rods are a great choice for chassis bracing, but I'd(and am using) use bigger rod ends(links). These (by Dubro)are about 20% percent bigger and are made up of harder plastic. The screw hole that attaches to the rod will need to be drill out a touch as they are too small. I highly reccomend them. I've got 12 of them on my truck LOL and haven't broke one after about a year.
http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_1822.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_1806.jpg

The other 4 links are in the steering making 12 monster ball links in all.

Nice trucks by the way!

-Zack

Finally a bit of an update on the design. I decided to try a drop down center plate, and reversed the center diff and motor to get more of the cg to the front. Had to mock up the servo and front shaft to make sure there was clearance. Looks dooable right now. The drop is only a 1/2 inch - could go a little more. My original idea was to get it low enough that nothing was sticking up through the top - but that now seems to be a far fetched idea. I used the muggy center diff set up (1.806" tall).

one more pic...ready for the dirt!!!

Am I looking at it wrong or are the chassis rails facing the wrong way?

For more rigidity you could extend the rear skid to connect with the centre. Didn't you pick up a hot racing chassis? you could run that current set up with a similarly low cog. Or is that a an XXL chassis in the mock up?

They could be facing the wrong direction. I questioned that when I first modeled them up, and never did get around to double checking that. Its easy enough to flip them around and move the cutouts.

No, I didnt get the HR chassis. Looked at it a bit, then just decided to get the XXL.

Anyone see any issues with reducing the ground clearance in the center with the dropped center? I personally dont think it will be that much of an issue.

Just jack up the suspension a little to improve ground clearance, I doubt it'll make much difference concidering the design of things like the gorillamaxx and muggy ( + all truggy ) chassis by comparison. Looks quite cool with the motor secreted partially between the upper and lower plates, definately gives a cleaner look & more deck space. :)

looks great JT, I want to see that new chassis done.

Mine will have a lower center skid also and from experience with my E-Revo when it had the kershaw chassis, it didn't cause any issues. As long as the first things to hit the ground are the front and rear skids, it should be fine. If you happen to be so unlucky as to land the center skid directly on a rock from 15 feet or more well, that's just bad luck :smile: I'm sure it'll be fine. This design looks great.

Just a small update: I finally got around to starting some of the assembly.
Got the Diff's rebuilt and installed in new aluminum cups. Used Muggy ring and pinion in them to get the ratio down a bit more to help with spur/pinion choices later on. One thing I noticed is that the gear mesh (ring/pinion)changes rather significantly as I spun the gear. I've never experienced this with the Traxxas and Savage diff's that I have rebuilt.

Installed the diff's into the Hot Racing Aluminum bulks and rear bulk support. Also used Hardcore Racing titanium upper plate, and hinge pin retainers. And of course the Lunsford Ti hinge pins. One of the bulks did not get the holes tapped very well - every one of the fasteners on it was damn tight - even the hinge pins took some extra work to get in. The other side was fine. Also installed the Ti Arms and Dynamite carriers, and the Losi hardened skid plate.

Remember - I'm converting an original LST, so I wasn't prepared for the carrier pins to be too short. Luckily I had two new Muggy A-arms sets, and stole the pins out of those. But after installing them - it looks like they are too long. I used all the shims they gave me, but looks like there should still be more. I'm also not certain that I installed them correctly - should the shims be used on the inside, or the outside? I also did very little shimming on the hinge pins. Should these be kinda loose, or nice and snug (but still allowing the arms to rotate freely)??
Attachment 8856

Attachment 8857

Attachment 8858

Those Flextek's sure look nice. Will be interesting to see how the hold up to heavy bashing.
I'm putting this part together so I can get more measurements for the design part - gonna need to get some custom shafts made. Anyone know if mike can do shafts that will mount to the LST style center drive cups?

Gotta order some additional carrier pins for the front, and some XXL carrier bearings. Just about done spending bucks on this thing - I'd hate to add up all that I've spent on it so far - gotta be over a grand so far. Kinda wondering why I even bought the roller in the first place - I think I'll only end up using the shock towers, bumpers, and a couple bearings off it!!!

Couple more pics...

With regards to the knuckle shim thingies, I'd say put them on the inside, to remove any side to side movement of the knuckle itself. Any left over shims can go on the outside to stop the pin moving side to side- I'd figure thats less critcal though really ( a few bits of fuel tubing shoudl do the trick there ).

I here you on the roller thing though, sometimes you gotta spend alot more money than you want to just to get a few parts that you couldnt find seperately ( TXT-1 roller vs axles for example :sarcastic: ). Never mind eh?...

I was thinking the same thing on the spacers.

There is a gentlemens club called Deja Vu. I think you should have Team Three-Six paint you up a shell for your TXT with a Deje Vu theme to it. Their logo is "100 beautiful women, and three ugly ones..."!

.....umm, who's little fantasy is that?:sarcastic:

Getting a roller does seem a waste after you start building but it's easier than ordering parts from a manual. Further to that you don't get to see it in front of you and is harder to work out how to better it. I quite enjoy building and reverse engineering but don't make enough time to make it all happen. Keep up the good work JT.

We have a Dejavu 20miles from home here. Checked it out a couple yrs ago and what a waste of money it was. The 3 ugly ones were working that day for sure ? $20.00 to walk in the door and most of the broads had tatoos all over themselves, real classy :whistle:

I ran into the same thing when I put the Dynamite knuckles and carriers on my LST project. The best thing I found were some plastic washers at my local hardware store.

On a side note with the pins, I once saw some that didn't use the e-clips. They were like a shoulder screw and used a nyloc nut. I haven't had any luck finding them again though.

-JB

I saw that once too - but can't remember where at.
I actually looked through our shoulder bolts here at work, and none of them in that diameter were long enough.

I ran into the same thing. I even tried McMaster Carr without success. One of my vendors at work makes us custom screws but they have a design fee and a 20k piece minimum order, so that option is out.

-JB

Made some decent progress this week. Got the prototype upper and lower plates cut. Had to make the upper plate twice as I found that some of my hole locations were off a bit, and had to reduce the taper on the front by 1/2 a degree. Still have one set of holes that are off by about 1mm.
First I had to finish up the front end and get some shocks put together for the rear (still waiting on a pair of Ti shafts for the front). I had originally purchased Dynamite Red bodied shocks, then changed my mind and bought a set of Losi threaded hard anodized ones. Only issue at first was that I would have to get the shock ring re-anodized red to match the truck. I was going to use the red caps off the Dynamites, and hopefully end up with a decent looking shock. Well, the cap wouldn't thread on to the Losi's. I then tried the stock blue caps, and they threaded onto both shock bodies fine, and the red caps threaded onto the stock blue bodies.....don't have a clue what could be happening here, but it's fairly obvious I'm not going to be able to use the hard anodized ones.

Also added some Dynamite red chassis braces.

Next up was assembling the RCM Slipperential, and installing the RCM Muggy motor mount. Had to do a little filing of the slipper pads on this one, other than that it went together a little better than the first one. For those that are going to get a slipperential - just prior to mounting the small end cap, screw the tightening ring down. It will help to make sure you dont get the cap on slightly crooked. I thought I had it all together and went to adjust the ring to the initial setting, and it wouldn't budge. I think I may have stripped out the threads on the ring as I was attempting to tighten it. Anyway, I pulled the cap off, screwed the ring down, and replaced the cap and it went together correctly this time.

The new Muggy motor mount is anodized black - unfortunatley, I dont think they oversized the bearing hole to account for the anodizing. I had to use my dremel and a sanding drum to remove the anodizing to get it to fit the bearing. Its got a tad bit more "slop" than I really want, but I dont think it will be bad.

couple more pics
I was going to go the route of a single pack, but looking at the pics, you can see that it doesn't look like a good fit to me. Seems to me that side mounted packs (flux style) would definitley fit the lines of the layout better.

The lower tray is a half inch lower than stock. I may drop it a little more to get the top of the motor mounts level with the top plate - but its right on the edge of being too low I think.

Also I used a stock LST axle CVF for one of the centers...its about 1/8th or so too short but I can move the mounts a bit to make it work. So that solves one end. Waiting for a XXL center shaft to see how that fits.

I also think I'll be moving the servo mount back a bit - too close to get screws into the front on it.

OH...and one beef....those stock losi screws suck! I've got three of them on there right now that are going to be a real bugger to get out, and two of them have to come out for me to finish this build. And being flat heads, I'm going to end up messing up the plate that they go through.....lesson learned...

I understand that there is quite a lot of titanium material in them, but they are cast, so there isn't any material-loss due to machining, so are the FlexTek arms really worth the price you pay for them?