Are the motors made in the same factory as the 1500 series motors?

I'll buy soon a new sensorless esc for my scrt-10 with 1409 3600kv. Which esc should I get? new sidewinder sct or old reliable MM ? I want to know especially which one can handle more current.

Yes. And they rock. :yes:

The new 1406 and 1410 motors are very very efficient, are built with the same techniques as the 15xx series motors, same bearings, same rotor design (but slightly smaller diameter rotor) and are sized to be ROAR modified legal.

Thanx!

Patrick

I would suggest the MMP. Its a very robust esc.

Hey Patrick, Got a few questions. Are these going to be 550 or 540 based? What are the KV of each motor? and will they be available seperate of any esc? I already have a mamba max and plan to go MMpro and MMM later, do not see a need for a sidewinder. Thanks for any info you can provide

The new Sidewinder SCT version handles similar power to the MMP, but is a lot less expensive (but doesn't have the features! -- it's a linear BEC, so limited to 3S, and has no sensor port...)

The motors will be available separately from controllers.

I don't really know what you mean by 550 or 540 based -- Mabuchi motor sizes?

The 1410 is the longest at 52.90mm (to be within the ROAR mandated 53.00mm length maximum.)

The 1406 motors are somewhat shorter.

And available Kvs are:

1410: 3800Kv
1406: 4600, 5200, 6700, 7700 -- more added soon.

Thanx!

Patrick

So a slightly higher kv than the Neu equivalent or mistype? Looking forward to getting my hands on this motor! :yes:

That 1410 3800kv motor sounds like it will be a popular motor! Fills in the ~3500kv void left by Medusa and will be a really good replacement for the VXL motor...

Would be nice to eventually have a ~4000kv (for 2s) and ~2500kv (for 4s) options. :wink:

They sound great 4 pole upgrades to the current 2 pole motors- thinking a decent vxl motor substitute for all the guys looking for better power and temps but similar speeds ( ~3000-3800kv range ).. Currently I suggest either neu 1509s or medusa 50mm motors, but one is $$ and the other is hard to find.

EDIT: and there you go :lol:

AWESOME! you created a super affordable system that any shop can confidently recomend for any 2wd or 4wd sc truck (slash 4x4 replacement when the vxl dies)

:yipi:

a sensored version of the motor, longer of course so not to take away from rotor length combo'd with the pro would be the perfect "pro sc " system for some us that just demand a sensored setup for our little toy race cars :lol:

Patrick what vehicles are you testing them in?

Slash 4x4? Performance?

Yeah, we have a "pro" version in the works...

I 2nd the MMP.

im running a novak hv 6.5 with a MMP in my 4x4 right and its great esc never breaks 10 degrees above outside temp and motor runs about the same maybe 5-10 degrees warmer, after 10-15 minutes on the track.

so what diameter is the rotor in these new motors?

Just out of curiosity, are these somewhat waterproof (in comparison to the VXL)??? That's the reason I bought my Slash 4x4's - we get a lot of liquid sunshine up here in the PNW.

Yes i was meaning like standard 540 and 550 brushed. I DL'ed the Roar rule book and saw that they only allow 12.51mm dia, 25mm long, 2 pole rotors. Does this mean a 2 pole motor with Neu type windings? also I'd like to see either the 1410 or the 1406 in a 3000kv or lower range (preferably around 2500kv) will that be possible?

12.5mmx25mm 2 pole rotors are only for stock and super stock.

Modified motors are allowed to be any construction as long as they have 1/8" shaft, and fit in a can 36.00mm x 53.00mm. And for racing, SC trucks are allowed to use ANY Modified motor. Stock motors don't have enough power.

Stock and Super Stock are based on the Novak motor design, which is a 3 slot (salient pole winding) two pole motor design with a 12.5mm rotor. Really a bad design IMHO, because it is very very sensitive to timing. ROAR should have adopted a very low inductance motor (like a two pole slotless) for stock and super stock, because those motors are very insensitive to timing -- makes it harder (if near impossible) to cheat.

So you could run a 1506 with a 1/8 shaft in a stadium truck for example, that would be too much, but fun to try.

thanks for the explanation Patrick, Two last question, Will these motors replace the current standard castle 1/10 motors currently in use? and, Are you planning a 4 pole replacement for the mini classes?

thanks and sorry for all the questions, I prefer the smaller 1/10 classes over MT and truggy.

EDIT: Holy crap, I just found out lehner xl and 1920 W/3.17mmshaft motors are allowed by patricks words. I wonder if smaller diameter motors would be allowed if not longer than max length?

No, you couldn't run those motors, because they have a diameter over 36mm...

A mabuchi 540 size motor is 36mm diameter and 55mm length... and that's defined as the MAXIMUM allowable dimension for ROAR modified.

Lehner XL is longer than 53mm too...

Those are motor sizes, not rotor sizes. :whistle:

Ditto on this, chasing a waterproof jobby for the Summit, as it is my stock ESC / Dewalt Motor pulls the same sort of amps on take off w/ 4s Lipo that the Savage Flux did (130 amps)

Define "waterproof" :lol:

I agree on the neus, but the lehner motors are legal. Are you counting the wires and shaft? If so maybe you are right, but the can itself is 44mm long for the XL
http://www.lehner-motoren.com/basicxl/

The XXL is longer by 5 mm's

and 44mm long on the 1920
http://www.lehner-motoren.com/1920/

According to the ROAR rule book

the only thing keeping the lehners i mentioned from being legal is the machined logo on the endbell. Will your have a logo on the endbell?

Yes, you are right.

Our logo will be laser etched on the endbell, just like our 1515 motors.

Patrick

Thanks Patrick, I hadn't got one of your newer motors, yet, so wasn't sure if you had the logo on them. can't wait to try these out on my T4

I still run my original 4600 CM36 motor with a MM, runs like a champ 3+ years old

I guess able to survive a dunking in fresh water. Much like the VXL, EVX-2 ESC's etc.

Sealed case on the ESC that will keep water out. Not looking for a warranty claim statement. Water spray from tires will put a coat of water over the entire inside of the truck. Occasionally hit puddles too...

read "Occasionally hit ditches with 2ft of water in them."

:eyes:

I know alot of traxxas forum kiddies would love a waterproof BL esc- a revised MMM case with some well placed grommets ( for wires ) and gaskets ( between case halves and around a revised heatsink design ) would work quite well I reckon- same principle as slapping plastidip around the the base of the heatsink on the old evx2- so long as the heatsink is exposed it can shed heat, the rest of the esc stays in its sealed case...

Waterproof is decent and sometimes nice to have. I would appreciate a WP system....

I will not run my rc's when its wet out, even my VXL which was claimed waterproof. So the water proof feature is not important to me

I have to say that running my VXL rustler when its raining is really awesome... the drifts on asphalt are amazing.... the mud flying when off roading is spectacular...

i would absolutely love to see a waterproof version and im 100% sure it will sell like crazy

im with crazyjr above, even if i owned waterproof electronics i would not run in the rain. nevermind destroying a speedo, how about destroying bearings and other pricey important componets with the water? sure you could disassemble the entire car and drown it in WD but why?

Same reason I dont have a problem sending my flux off a ramp at 50mph. FUN!!! I expect to have to fix or repair daily. Other reason is that we only have about 3 months of the year when its not wet to some degree - need a rig to run when I dont want to put the high end stuff in the moisture.

Should have gotten a Ford then, Sorry couldn't resist:na::rofl:. But i do not run my stuff in the wet

EDIT; I'm a dodge man myself, wish i had a diesel

understandable, lucky enough to be livin and workin in sunny so-cal right now. most people here dont really know what rain is, although every so often we get a decent shower, so we dont really think about it. really wish i had more time for "fun". dark when i leave and dark when i get home usually. on top of that, pretty much guarenteed to have your stuff ran over or stolen where im at now. not to say there arent good people here in compton, but it only takes one....

One important point is, I run a $300 car in the rain.... not a $600+ savage....

Hell even a 2wd brushed slash is fun in the rain! WD40 afterward and its as good as new!

I would really like a waterproof version of a sidewinder or MMP to fit in a 1/10 car or a 1/8 buggy... 4s max.... as too much power in slippery roads is not usable anyway...

i'm sure that if you contacted holmes he'd do it for you - he does it to his BR-XLs...

Sinking them would void the warranty AND null the scrap value of the controller. If it bricks, it is done. Not recommended by me, but I encase them on special request here and there. I do not like doing controllers with sensor ports, as the resin creeps into them easily.