It would be stressful if you were trying to draw 10A or so, but fans use around 200mA or less each, so I wouldn't worry about it.

Well, I read the label, 12V... 0.40mA... So I assume that's too little to matter!

Also, I did a bit of thinking, since the "controller" varies the fan, through voltage *most likely*, on 5V, it'd probably be giving like 3V on full low..
So, on full, it ran, so HAH!

Fans: 1 - BrianG: 0.
:lol:

0.4A is higher than I would have expected for a typical fan, but is fine.

What do you mean by "Also, I did a bit of thinking, since the "controller" varies the fan, through voltage *most likely*, on 5V, it'd probably be giving like 3V on full low..
So, on full, it ran, so HAH!"? You have a controller that is running on 5v?

Well, I mean.
The fan is hooked to the controller, which is hooked to power.
I changed the power input to 5V (what I'm gonna end up doing..), so when I turned it to low, I would assume it changes the fan voltage down, while on full, it'll let the 5V (or whatever) go right through...

Also.. if I connect for 7V, and I'm removing the grounding wire..
Shouldn't I be... well, upset after connecting it?

I mean, I have a metal-steel controller mounted on metal-steel chassis...

Ok, if you have a controller, why do you need any kind of switch?

Yes, assuming the controller is not using a switching buck/boost circuit, then the output can only be as high as the input. But, you tried running the fans from 5v before and they didn't want to start. So, if that's the case, then the controller must be outputting more than 5v.

Trying to get it a bit quieter :lol:

This is my "silent" build, and I feel getting it down to ~7V would be perfect when all I'm doing is writing up an essay..

The airflow is very powerful on low on 12V.

Well, when I mean I ran the fan on 5V, I meant through the controller.
I guess next time I'll try fan directly on 5V to settle this debate! :intello:

I have an idea...

1: Take ALL of the fans out of the computer.
2: Get a plastic tub large enough to put the computer in it.
3: Put the computer in it.
4: Fill the plastic tub with mineral oil.*

Voila! Your computer is now completely silent and you don't have to worry about dust!

:mdr:











*Submerging your computer in mineral oil may necessitate the use of an external CD drive.

But..
Then it's all gooey... like linc.

Hey guys, finally gonna get started on this little project.

Would these work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/1N4001-Diodes-US...ht_3593wt_1102

also, how much more complicated would it be to add a small LED to determine if it's on/off (mostly just for cosmetic reasons, if it's easy, then maybe I should, but if it complicates stuff even more, I'll skip)...

Thanks,

1) Yes those will work. All of the 1N400X diodes have a 0.7V drop.* The last digit determines the max working voltage.

2) Most motherboards have a header for connecting indicator LEDs. "Power on" being one of them... Do you have the user manual for your mobo?

*See later post....

1) sweet, thanks, is there any diodes with a larger voltage drop?

2) I have those hooked up, I was thinking more along the lines of the fans.
If they're on, I guess a voltage regulator or a bunch of diodes (again) to drop the voltage + current down to the LEd.

1) 0o my bad... Vdrop on those diodes is actually about 1V*. That makes things easier. :smile:

2) Oh, the fans...... -_- You can just put the LED in parallel with the fan power leads with a resistor appropriate for the highest voltage it will see. It will just be a bit dimmer when the fan is running on a lower voltage.

* See BG's next post... :lol:

Wait, I thought the 1N4001 had a .7V drop, or are they 1v..
You're confusing me! :party:

I went and looked up the datasheet.....actually multiple datasheets from different manufacturers....they all said ~1V drop.

It actually depends on the current flowing through them. Look at the curve near the bottom of the datasheet.

Oh giddy, now I only need 5 per switch, and not the 7 I was thinking of!

Again, it's not a certain fixed value. The higher the current flow, the higher the voltage drop. The 1n4001 will drop 0.8v @ ~.2A. Other resistors, such as 3A diodes (which are larger to handle V*I power losses) will drop less voltage at that same current.

Okay, so I should just be using 7 diodes if I'm dropping 12V to 7V?

Yeah 7 will work fine.

Sweet, thanks.
Looks like no more gold star for you! :no:

That's what happens when you rush through things... :cry:

So, let me get this straight; you are going to chain 7 diodes to get around a 5v drop (7v result)? Why not just use the 12v line as + and the 5v line as the - and be done with it? The diodes work good to bleed off a little voltage, but when you are getting to those levels, there are better ways.

No ground?
It's a metal controller on a metal surface.. :oops:
I hooked it up before, and got some sparks.

I guess I'm confused. I thought you were going to do away with the controller completely and power the fan leads directly via whatever scheme you decided on? Yes, sparks make sense if you are using the controller too; the fan - is probably tied directly to ground, so when you tied the fan - to 5v, you effectively shorted the 5v rain to ground.

No no no, I want to still control the fan from 7V and switch it into 12V and then control from there.
Low on 7V = very quiet, yet still a small airflow, high 7V a little bit louder, more airflow, 12V = gaming.

Okay, got the diodes in today, $3.50 for 50 diodes..

Had one last itty bitty question:

Any of these switches would work, or rather, any SPDT switch would work?

I'm kind of digging the flat lever look, so I could just flip it with my index finger nice and easy...

Anywhere else I could pick up some of these switches, illuminated even?

Thanks

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...odsInSession=1
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...odsInSession=1
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...odsInSession=1
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...odsInSession=1
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...odsInSession=1

So I picked up a DPDT switch (because they didn't have any 3 of them same SPDT switches), and started the soldering.

I found out 7 diodes in series only drops ~3.xx volts, and 14 diodes will drop a 12.25v down to ~7.27V...

Pretty interesting..

Since I can't get 7V direct from the PSU because the controller will be metal-metal, so no grounding = nice shock..

Okay, this thread needs to die, so I can get on with my life :shrug:

Discovered that my initial idea was the stupidest thing, ever.

Putting a ~5V drop in between the fan controller and power, would do nothing.

The fan controller already voltages (I could've swore it did RPM variable, but not voltage.. oh well) from ~7V to 12.25V, low being ~7V, and high being ~12V.

So, the thought of dropping the volt down to 7V (because I thought fan was always on 12V, even on low), would actually drop it ~2V...

Which also means I purchased 50 diodes, and soldered 42 diodes in series of 14's for nothing...

In any case, I'm gonna return these DPDT switches for some SPST lighted switched, and just make an on/off switch for the controllers.

Thanks everyone for their help! The next post will be some pictures..

At least it was good soldering practice...... :lol:

Well, finally rode out to radio shack, exchanged the DPDT Center Off switches for some SPST On/Off ones to do the final step. (since parents didn't give me a ride, and I've been sick for the past 3 1/2 weeks, I had to ride my bike..)

Anyways, I cut out the PCI bracket (the 90 degree part), drilled out some holes for the PCI Fan controller, and bolted it up (didn't wanna use glue for easy removal).

I wired up the switch for the positive yellow wire (hope that won't do any big damage to anything, besides the wire).

And here they are!
Up position is on, bottom is off.
I feel pretty cool going down the line and just flipping them all on/off.
Makes for a pretty quiet machine when I need one too! and then when I start gaming, pop open the panel, flip em all on, and go about my merry way.

Video:
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...trollerMod.jpg

Pictures:
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...4/IMG_5088.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...4/IMG_5087.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...4/IMG_5086.jpg

Is that a Z-5500? :smile: :smile: :great:

It is indeed! :yes:
Brother had it at home for like a year, because he wasn't able to bring it with him when he went off to med school across the country (West Virginia... hick village! :whistle:), and then decided I could use it in the mean time so brought me back some speaker wires.

Had me some Z-640's before, that he passed down to me before, and now the Z5500.

Damn thing is huge!
You have one?

I do. :yes:

I've had them for a few years. They are the best set of speakers I've ever had on my PC! All of the bad reviews online were from people who had no idea what an equalizer was... HiFi audio isn't plug-and-play.

I still have a set of Z-2200's I'm still using. I got them right when they were coming out with the newer version way back, so I had a $100 instant rebate for the "old" version.

Hehe, I haven't tuned them or anything.
I'm not a huge audiophile, so it's not a huge deal, though it's pretty easy to setup IMO.

Configured a few settings, and blamo, all done.
And I'm currently running off my mobo soundcard (I know.. :whip:) with just one connection (green to green, hehe. Only supports 2.1!).

So the speakers are just warming up whenever I use them, they never get to stretch their legs, they're pretty much on PLII Music all the time, soo..

My mobo has HD 6-channel support... :lol: My XB-360 is using the optical input. :surprised: :yes:

Well, I have a $25 motherboard (or close to it; got a combo of a quad w/ mobo for ~$85!) so, hehe, doesn't really bother me; Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS recently died so, I've been just waiting until this mobo gives out, to get a... decent motherboard.

I could arrange for somebody to come by your house and throw water on it for you... :mdr:

I paid $1100 for my entire PC w/free shipping (thanks NewEgg!). My LCD monitor was $300 of that... the mobo was ~$80.