One other question. Do you or anyone else knows what type of counter sink drill bit I should use for the holes to get them flush with the plate? I don't want to mess that up and have to buy another skid plate.

Just a regular countersink bit with a 45* angle on the cutting head/ teeth- the important bit is not to drill to deep with it, thats how you avoid the head of the screw being too sunk too deep. I would practice on some scrap metal or plastic and then you can set a depth stop on you drill as required.

I can't find a countersink bit for my dremel. So do you think this will work?
http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/PROD/BBC67
I have a countersink bit for my drill, but it won't fit in my Dremel. I also have the Dremel drill press attachment. I think I will have a better result with the Dremel/press attachment than trying to do it freehand.

I dont think the router bit is intended for metal really, it'll probably go blunt very quickly, if it doesnt shatter straight away. I wouldnt try doing it free-hand either, no. I would look/ ask around and see if any of your neighbours or friends / shops near by have a drill press you can borrow.

Good news, My neighbor has lent me his drill press. I should be able to work on it in the next few days. On a side note I found an interesting product. It is a Dremel chuck that has been modified to accept regular drill bits. I'm sure more than one person here might be able to use one of these.
http://www.mcpii.com/Nicknacks.html
I ordered one I will let you guys know how well it works.

So also was thinking about using a tap and die so I could thread the holes in the plate. I was thinking it would make the mount a little stronger. what size would I use?( thread count, size,etc.....). Is this more trouble than it's worth or do you think there would be additional benefit?

I just got the Slipper mounted. Never mind about threading the hole. I don't think there is enough metal to really do that. I'm just happy the I got the depth of the countersink bit right. Next I will need to find out how long the dog bones have to be.

A few more pics.

Bleh, I would have said use a 2.5mm drill bit & an M3 tap for doing the skid plate to mount the CD unit, but it wouldn't add much strength really no- just be sure to use blue threadloc on all the screws for final assembly. It is looking very good so far, you can always touch up the chassis where you had to notch it using a red sharpie or even red lip gloss ( semi transparent effect like anodizing, so that you can see the metal surface texture but it is coated red ).

No, Neil I only do things one way. After I get it together I will send it back to the shop to get it re-anodized. The turn around is only 2-3 days, and they will only charge me 25 to 30 dollars. Thanks for the compliment, I really appreciate all the guidance so far.

I realize that the chassis is going to get scratched so I think I will get it re-anodized from time to time. I have a few more parts that at the anodizers right now. I don't plan on running it into a tree, but it is not going to stay on a shelf either.

Cmac - I am really enjoying following this build. I have been looking for a thread with someone putting a slipperential in an Emaxx - finally found it. :yipi:

What motor mount are you using? Is it this one....
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=rcmcdmm

Your truck is looking awesome by the way.

Thanks, thirdcliff
yes that's the mount. I've got a lot of cool things that I'm about to bolt on in the next few days stay tuned....

Oh, I am subscribed to this thread - don't you worry! :lol: I am going to build an emaxx and have been lurking off your thread and others to see just what type of setup I want. Still researching...

But I did pick up a FLM chassis, hybrid bulks, shock towers (pretty much your setup) and some HB diffs - still waiting for the 43t diff gear (HBSC8028) to swap with the spirals that came with mine. Damn things are sold out EVERYWHERE.

But I can't wait to hear how the slipperential is in the maxx. It just might be my next part....

Try these guys.
http://rc4speed.com/index.php?route=...roduct_id=129?
It will take a few weeks to get to Austin, but it's less time than waiting for everyone to get them back in stock. They take Pay pal. So just as Neil said on the first page of this thread your covered.
Good luck,
Mike.

Whoa - I totally missed that link. Thanks for bringing it to my attention. I just created an account and are awaiting approval from RC4speed.com before I can order.

Do you remember how much it costs to ship here? I converted the price of the gear which was 10 Euros and it's about $15 which is the same as the stateside companies are charging. As long as the shipping isn't too outrageous I will use them.

Thanks again for the link.
- Cliff

I don't remember what the shipping cost, but I don't think it was all that much.

O.K next problem. Neil do you know what my options are as far getting a new set of these plastic pillow ball retainers? Or can I use something else. I got a set of used U.E. upper and lower Supermaxx A-arms, and knuckles. The plastic retainers were marginal at best. Will I be able to use stock length CVD's with this setup? I guess I will have to drill this stripped retainer out, and try not to damage the threads.

Hmm, now you're asking good questions..

Looks like you have either RacerX or the EXT knuckles ( same thing, different strength so far as I know ) there with bearings designed to take the 6mm cvds by the looks of it ( you'll need to double check the size of the bearings- should be 6x16x5mm or 8x16x5mm ), in which case you need the EXT cvds to match- both are out of stock and may never return however:

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...re/13501S.html
http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...re/13502S.html

Luckily ebay always comes up trumps:

http://cgi.ebay.com/e-t-maxx-2-5-UE-...item415b1dd854

http://cgi.ebay.com/traxxas-t-maxx-u...item3a6630ed3c


a snip at $200 per set of 4- there are Titanium ones too for $500 :lol:

I would grab some quick before they sell out really- bare in mind they dont use a little cross-pin to hold the hex in place, they use a keyed stubaxle to take their own proprietory 14mm hexes- if you want to run larger hexes, you have to find some 14mm > 17mm/23mm adapters, though that isn't so hard thankfully.

The pillow ball retainers look to be the same size as the ones on the stock old 3906 emaxx knuckles, so finding stronger replacements should be a bit easier- there are alloy ones around so just add blue threadloc and fewer worries about stripping the hex drive:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Traxxas-4934-Alu...item35b21c86c6

http://cgi.ebay.com/Traxxas-E-Maxx-A...item23124a4384

The UE version is ofcourse out of stock and also may never return.

As for your stripped retainer, I would heat up a flat bladed screwdriver, push it in, let it cool/ set, then just unscrew the retainer, quicker and easier really :)

I would like to continue to use my various 17mm wheels. So where could I find 17mm adapters?

I just bought the CVDs. It's the same guy who I bought the other UE parts.

would the 6mm to 17mm hex adapters from FLM work?

No they will not fit go to UE site and see how they work???
Great work:)

Thanks

I went to there site, and I can only see a picture of it. I don't have the CVDs yet so it's hard for me to see how they work.Web do you have any sugestions of what I need to get 17mm hexs on my truck?

The UE cvds have a little hex onto which the actual hex adaptor fits, so no regular hex or hex adaptor will work ( which uses a cross pin to hold the hex onto the cvd ), only option besides voodoo magic is to get a 14 > 17mm hex adaptor which sits on top of the UE 14mm hex, like so:

http://rcb.shopnz.biz/catalog/produc...938&osCsid=af7

Axial supply them with some of their rims, but pretty much everywhere else only sells regular style 17mm hexes, or 12 > 17 & 17-23mm adaptors, no 14 > 17mm.

so these will work? I really don't want any wheel slop.

Hey Niel I think they only ship to New Zealand. Are there any other places that sell that Item, or something like that.

If you google for 'S.U.T 14 TO 17MM HEX ADAPTERS' it turns up all the places selling them- I didnt check all of them myself to see what countries they were/ ship to as several weren't English language sites :-/

I'm not sure what else to suggest really besides the 14-23mm adaptors and new rims; only other option besides cross-drilling the cvd stub axle to take a pin & regular hex would be to try and change the end of the cvds for something like a traxxas or MIP brand part, but I have no idea if that would work.

The issue with UE is that they make alot of their parts proprietary so that they aren't compatible with other brands or stock parts, only their own parts; the other issue is that UE havent made anything new for years so they havent kept pace with things like wheel hex sizes - it's either 14mm or 23mm, the use of 17mm on a truck is a fairly recent development which came along with the buggies and truggies when they suddenly shot into popularity. Anyone building a UE based truck these days is using 3rd-hand parts with very little manufacturer support, just gotta learn to adapt or make your own parts even.. :neutral:

If I were to try to ,or have a machine shop drill the axle stubs, what size would that hole be?

Very Small.

You'd need to grab some cheap 14mm or 17mm hexes from ebay or your LHS and have them measure the cross pin- I think they're about 1.5mm diameter but it varies- the hole can be slightly larger, doesnt have to be a tight fit as such. You'd also need to get the hole in the right spot along the stub-axle so that when the hex and wheel is fitted, it isnt hanging to far along or too close to the bearing that it might rub. That much is easy enough to work out once you have the parts to play with.

I think I will try to do that, but with the stock Traxxas hexes. I should be getting the CVD's in the next few days, and while i still have the drill press I will attempt to modifiy them. I'm just a little nervous that I will mess up my brand new 200$ CVD's.

Did you get my PM hope it helped you out???

Yes I did thanks for the advice

When you get them you will no what i meant and he ship"s fast you mite get them to day??

OK, I'm giving in. I think I will just go with some 14mm wheels. I just bought a set from
http://www.spiracingwheels.com/2009/mtwheel.htm
I picked the "Indy" style.

Neil thank you so much for the tip to get the stripped retainer out. It worked like a charm. I don't have the Traxxas retainers, but I have the ones on my RPM's and they worked like a charm. Plus they look so much better being all aluminum. So I assume,(always gets me in trouble) that the Traxxas retainers will fit.

I have been seeing ads for those SPI wheels in magazines. When you get them, I would definitely like to know your thoughts on the quality.

Oh and nice choice with the Indy's :yes:

Will do.
Thanks.

Ooh yeah, nice choice indeed. it sucks having to buy new wheels but A) those are beautiful, seen a few guys running them over the years and they always look great and B) since they are aluminium and the hex is too, you shouldn't have any issues with stripped hexes, ever.