Ahh, thought you bought it from MBP-RC. Well, that explains it then :)

That doens't look like it is done like that from the factory indeed.
I would return it and get a refund, or send it back to the factory.

Strange thing is, I read a lot of positive things about TP motors used in boats, but you guys don't seem to have a lot of luck with them?
But then again, the guy I know who loves the TP motors buys them direct of TP's website.

Yeah, what can I say... I'm a stubborn donkey :).

Yeah, maybe they've been messing around with their design too much recently. I think Lizard got his sparking 58xx and loose shaft 4070 directly from TP too, no? Any news on those Lizard?

Anyway, still talking to APS and TP, no news yet, will keep you guys posted.

Strange..
Maybe they have become to popular and they can't keep up with the demand anymore?

Alright, replacement rotor came in!

After talking to APS (where I bought the motor) and the TP factory, the TP factory took full responsibility for my loose rotor and provided me with a replacement rotor free of charge. They sent it with DHL express, and it was delivered from the factory in China directly to my door in Germany within a week, also free of charge and, in addition, a bunch of shims and spacers were included for fitting the rotor. Haven't installed and tested the rotor yet, but I am very pleased with how APS and TP (factory) handled this. Only thing how this could have been handled better, is if the complete motor was replaced, as I now need to fiddle and rebuild the motor myself, which for me is ok though.

Pics of the rotors below. Bottom one is the one from the Turnigy 5682. Diameter looks different because of pic angles, all are 28 mm dia. I was able to put the rotors so close together because they are on a metal plate, and were stuck to that enough not to get pulled together. You can see the 5682 has ~40 mm length magnets, whereas the TP5660 has ~50 mm length magnets (magnets on the TP cover whole rotor length), while being in a smaller (minus 2 mm) can (56x80 mm). Wrapping of the TP rotors looks better than that of the Turnigy, which has even has the magnets exposed at some areas - which explains the difference in max RPM I guess.

The new rotor still looks a bit "do-it-yourselfie", but time will tell how this one holds up. Instead of a single M3 grub screw on each side that hold the rotor to the shaft, they now tapped 2x opposite M4 holes on each side, for a total of 4x M4 grub screws; there's 2x M3 holes unused now, so seems like a custom job though, specifically to address my warranty claim?

Anyway, here's some pics, more when I get everything installed again.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...photo-2-11.jpg

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...photo-3-12.jpg

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...-photo-4-9.jpg

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...photo-1-13.jpg

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...photo-2-12.jpg

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...photo-3-13.jpg

This was very helpful advice! I used the shaft of the old rotor to guide the new one in through the front bearing and it worked great. After complaining about the clumsily cut shaft of the last rotor, the new rotor they sent me is completely uncut and has spare room for a pinion in the back too.

Added some locknuts to the Basher Rally gear and using a Revo spur adapter for pinion. Geared down to 36/42 as I'm not happy with the >3V ripple I saw on the XL2 and, realistically, I need to find a better place to drive fast anyway, as the slightly curved forest road I have been using, has disaster written all over it... Nice thing is that on 7S, 36/42 gearing yields 184 kmh again, same as previous gearing on 6S, so will be a very nice comparison:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...t2-gearing.jpg

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...photo-4-12.jpg

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...-photo-5-5.jpg

Hey Dr.T, just a crazy idea (since I bought some titanium rods lately): Get some 8mm grade 5 titanium rod and replace the shaft with that for less rotating mass.