thats weird, compare the e-maxx slider with the 3.3 and see if there is a input shaft difference on the cvd. Are they the same in size? or is there one bigger.

is the 3.3 slider not fit into the shaft because its a tight fit or just too small?
have you tryed to add some elbow grease to get that suker on there?

The flats on the output shaft are actually bottoming on the opening for the driveshaft. The only thing I can figure is there are diferent yokes for the t-maxx and the revo, even though the traxxas website shows the identicle part numbers.

I can grind some material out of the opening on the driveshaft to get it to go on far enough to line the holes up, but then the shaft rubs on the diff case.

This should be simple. Its starting to really p**s me off.:mad:1

different yokes, what yokes are you using now? if your using the t-maxx then get the revo, using the revo try the t-maxx. see what happeneds.

So they are diferent... Strange... the traxxas website shows the same number for both the revo 3.3 and the t-maxx 3.3.

If they are diferent, I'm not sure which I have. I didn't realize they were diferent. I have the sliders form my revo 3.3 and a set that I bought (ebay) that were supposed to be from a 3.3 t-maxx. I'll have to look closer at these later tonight when I get home. See if they are diferent. Either that or I'll just have to make the drive to the LHS and see if I can compare them (if they have both in stock).

i just want to get the info so i can do the upgrade on my truck my stock e-maxx sliders aren't holding up longer!!!!:002:

Finally figured out what is going on....

It turns out that there are 2 diferent yokes for the stock drivesafts. The revo 2.5 yokes part number 5458, and the revo 3.3/t-maxx 3.3 yoke part number 5458X.

The 5458 works on the revo and the revo 3.3 (any revo diff). The 5458X works on any Revo diff and any Maxx diff.

Everyplace is out of stock on the 5458 and has stock on the 5458X so it looks like traxxas is replacing the 5458 across the board with the 5458X as a repalcement part for either.

My problem came in when I bought what I thought were T-maxx 3.3 drive shafts, but turns out they are actually revo2.5 shafts. :dft001: So to make a long story short (I know... to late) I now have the 5458X yokes that fit the Maxx diffs perfectly and I am swaping them out for the 5458 yokes that are on sliders I have.

So to do the conversion to the 3.3 steering knuckles on an E-Maxx you need the following:
-T-Maxx 3.3 steering Knuckles and bearings
-T-maxx 3.3 Turnbuckles, Rod Ends and long hollow balls
-T-Maxx/Revo 3.3 Sliders (5451X Diveshaft Assembly) Or T-Maxx 3.3/2.5R CVDs Or Revo 2.5/3.3 CVDs

This conversion will get you and extra inch in wheel width from the stock E-Maxx Widemaxx setup. Plus some added duarbility as the 3.3 parts are much tougher than the E-Maxx parts.


I feel much better now that I have solved a problem that I created in my own mind.:rolleyes: Just wish I figured it out before I bought a bunch extra diffs and parts that i didn't actually need. :dft008: Well, I guess you can never have to many spares.

Hope this at least saves someone else the same headache.

Thanks for doing all the dirty work jhautz i thank you for doing this now my next mod is using the 3.3 driveshafts on my maxx!

Just to make it easier to tell which of the 2 parts you are looking at:

The newer 5458X universal fit yoke has a small amount of relief around the outside edge, and there is a little more relief in the hole for the flats to go farther in when assembling it.

Top: Traxxas Part Number 5458. Revo Diff Only
Bottom: Traxxas Part Number 5458X. Revo or Maxx Diff
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...z/CIMG1211.jpg

I would use the 3.3 cases as well. The new 4 screw design probably makes them alot stronger.

I agree Squee. The 4 screw 3.3 cases are better. I am actually using them in mine now (or will be as soon as I finsh this). But they arent necessary to convert to the 3.3 steering knuckles.

Cool Thanks for the info.
I may get me a close to stock emaxx in a trade off.
I was thinking of going with the 3.3 sliders and knuckles for strength.

this is tricky question but does anyone have a trick to puting on the yokes on to that ball thingy???? Not the best terminology but you know!!! :)

I used the little tool that comes with the emaxx. It is the flat piece of metal with the slot cut in the end.

Found a new wrinkle in this setup. The 3.3 shafts are larger in diameter and if you set the suspension up in any position other than the lowest possible ground clearance setting they rub on the underside of the upper arm and when the suspension is compressed it rubbs on the kower arm. After discovering this I did a little investigation and found out that indeed the 3.3 t-maxx has a revised set of arms that have relief in this area. So... add new 3.3 arms to the list of items needed to do this mod if you are going to use the 3.3 stock sliders. If you use CVDs you dont need them.

Damn... This is getting to be a little more expensive than I planned.

The new rpm a arms will accomdate the new 3.3 sliders. It has the cut out in them.

The RPM Revo knuckles will work as well. My personal choice would be the RD Racing knuckles and 23mm hub kit with 8mm axles though there $200 :005:

To save alot of time and fustration, wouldn't the best way out of buying new arms, is to make that cut on an old rpm to acomindate the slider with a dremel?

I guess you could... would probably look a little hacked though. I not that good with a dremel.

it would weaken them. I haven't seen the new ones, but I'm sure there not just the old ones with a relief. They probably raise it to retain the same thickness.

I'll let you know what they look like in a couple days. I have the new ones on the way.

And Im sure dremeling would void their ''unbreakable'' waranty.

New RPM Arms got here. They are the just like the old ones with a dent on one side. No bulg on the other side. I guess you could just dremel it out on the old arms. Anyway. New ones are going on. Can't wait to test this thing out w/ the 3.3 setup.

Now with the arms I basically will have brought the whole truck from the diffs out to the wheels up to 3.3 specs.

Let us know how it works out. I may be interested in doing a conversion on one.

Yeah, the new maxx arms are like that too. Notched on both sides.

You could as well just use the normal revo shafts and use a drill and a dremel to take of some plastic from the piece that goes onto the diff.

Well I installed the rpm arms for the 3.3 and they work perfecty. On the tallest bashing suspension setting, its really close clearance between the 3.3 driveshafts and the arms with the suspension completetly extended, but it clears and I cant make the axels rub the arms even if I force the suspension to over travel down by hand. Looks like it should be really solid.

I like this conversion.

Got any pics of the new setup.

Sorry... Pictures are kinda dark and cr_py
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...z/CIMG1294.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...z/CIMG1292.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...z/CIMG1291.jpg

Where did you get the turn buckles from?
I like them. It looks good. I think the pics turned out nice.
It looks wider now. Let me know how it handles since the improvement.
I piced up another emaxx for a conversion like this. :D
I couldn't afford it but had something brother wanted for it.

Very nice! Coolhand, I believe there from JD Carbon.

Yes. JD Carbon Turnbuckles. I also have JD Carbon Hinge Pins in it. Really tough stuff. And LIGHT!!! Really Light. Makes Titanium look like lead.

You can kinda see them in the top picture.