I'm a little late in this tread but I see that the LVC is NOT a "car specific " LVC as I had noted in another thread .I have and use the same LVC since it's really the only autodetecting LVC I know of but am looking forward to a true "car LVC" so my truck don't buck like a bronc with burrs under his saddle when the LVC kicks in....:002:

pinolelst

Turbo; i think you will find great help in the exploded views you can download from traxxas.com. they are awesome.

Thanks, I'll try that.

You would like to see a smoother lvc like the ones that are built in like quark and mamba.

The Li Saver that Mike sells is a CAR version. Otherwise, like CHC said, get a esc that has a built in esc....

Well, I got all the 3.3 stuff on and the proline shock cups rub those fat slider shafts, as well as the springs touch the inside of the upper arms. Now what am I going to do? ARGGGGGG! that was the whole purpose of the upgrade was the arms and shafts. BTW the stock shocks will fit ok. Suggestions please,

Thanks.

got pics?

I'll take some later.

I run the proline shocks with the 3.3 stuff dont have an issue. Are you using the RPM arms or the stock. Im using RMP. It is a fairly tight squeeze with the proline shocks. What shock towers are you using, and which holes in the arms? I had to get the little pegs on the shock towers just the right length to get it all to fit together just right.

Just for reference. This thread has a photo of my maxx with the 3.3 stuff all set up before the I went to the proline shocks. http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3588 WhenI shitched to the fatter proline shocks I had to get the spacing right on the upper shock mounts.

If your shock cups are rubbing on the slidders maybee a small washer between the shock mount on the arm and the hollow ball at the bottom of the shock to move it out just enough to clear the slidder.

I was going to suggest the same thing- but maybe used a small shim or two at the top & bottom of the shock to space it off the mounts- should clear the inside of the arm and slider shaft then. Give it a try at anyrate.

A good shim would be the small spacers that are used with the turnbuckles to adjust bumpsteer.

Ok, here are some pics. The problem is the spring perch sets on the slider shaft before pushing the shock over to bolt it on. If I was to shim it out to miss the shaft the spring it self hits the inside of the upper arm, in fact it hits the arm even if pushed over in the "bolted position". Its like the arm wont allow the whole shock to move any directon to clear the shaft if I tried to shim it. These are the RPM arms and the stock towers. I tried all available hole both in the tower and lower arm and none provide clearance to the shaft/perch/arms.

Ah, I see now. So, the end rubs on the shaft if it isnt shimmed, and if it is the spring rubs against the back-inside edge of the arm.... Do you have a dremel.........

I cant see any possible solution other than to enlarge the opening in the upper a-arm, or to use slimmer springs/shocks. You be buggered otherwise young'un as they say.

Here is what Im thinking if I cant find a solution to work with the prolines and the sliders. Looks like traxxas has some cvd's coming out and cheap. Can this price be right? If so I'll just run my stock shocks for now and order these shafts. Then make the swap back to the prolines when those come in. I dont have to much $ tied up in the shafts. I wonder if that price on the cvd's is a misprint as the center shafts are much more.

That does seem rather cheap, must be a typo, although someone said there traxxas cvds broke (in their BL jato). I would go for something a little better like MIPs or something- cost more but very unlikely to break them.

From what I've read here the mip's and the rpm arms are a bad mix:002:

Yep! got the same problem with the 3.3 shafts and the stock arms..

the powerstrokes where rubbing, even the big bores are.. (they use slightly larger diameter retainers) waiting for the cvd's now.. I found a way to make them work though, but you are somewhat limited to the setup options.. but it works, and it works good.. so i am happy.. just find the angle that puts the shocks relative straight. either that, or wait for the CVD's that are about to come out..

Um, er, in that case (you can tell I've never had a maxx before)- ask mike, he should be able to recommend a good combo, if not give the traxxas ones a try- if they do break quickly Im sure you can get a refund and get something better.

Sorry man!!, completely forgotten about this!!! LOL Here is what i did to prevent the powerstroke shock from rubbing;

got a Revo shock end.. They are higher, and less large in diameter.. Works like a charm

Two sets of these get you on the right track; trx5465

So this replaces the threaded part on the end of the of the shock shaft. Your still using the proline spring perches?

Those appear to be Revo spring retainers.

Yes, indeed. the spring retainers.

Ah, I think I had it backwards, you mean this

Yeah, that's it.

it works like a charm on mine.

So what do you think about the traxxas cvd's I linked to.....that $ sounds to good to not try em out. I know there backordered though.

I noticed if I rotate the either rear wheel while holding the truck it will turn the motors and the front wheels, but if I rotate either of the front wheels only the other wheel will turn, not the motors or the rears. Why is this. I did notice while running the truck it seemed like the fronts wern't pulling real well, almost like it was rear wheel drive. I know my slipper is loose. Is there something in the diff that wears out causing this or is this normal?

if the shocks are still on, rubbing the shafts, take them off, and test again. my diffs felt locked with the shocks pushing the shafts to one side.

Yes, the stock shocks are on it and there is no rubbing. So that eliminates that. Are the diffs adjustable? Its obvious that the rears have more bite than the front. It may have been like this all along I don't know, but I'm noticing it now.

No, there not adjustable. Can you turn the left rear while holding the right rear? If not, then you have a locker in the rear. They don't handle all that great.

Your rear diff could be going bad and binding. Does the rear have a spool in it?
The rear has more traction for it gets more weight transferred to it.
Unless you have a center diff though. The front and rear should spin at the
same rate or speed.

All the drive line is stock emaxx, Im not sure how the truck is set up.

Try turning the gears by hand- all 4 wheels should turn in the ame direction. If the front doesnt do much then the front diff may be stripped. Also try turning both the front wheels in the same direction and at the same time- the motors and rears should turn too. If not then the front is definately stripped/ on its way out.

Well to complicate matters I hit a tree today and busted a front bulk and the front skid plate. What shoud be my replacement strategy?

If you are wanting to save up for hybrids id get the grey bulks for temporary replacement. If you arent getting hybrids than the FLM bulks are a nice buy.

+1.......

+2
Has anyone ever tried those 'rcbest' bulkheads. They look cheap but all the feedback on ebay seems quite positive. I only see the rear FLM bulks on RC-monster, are the fronts out of stock?

You can try GA Bulks. I would notuse Rcbest bulks, they are junk. But first check with Mike to make sure, he may have a set that is not listed.

I can't imagine that the diffs are wore out already, heck the truck only has maybe 3 hrs. on it. But, if they are wearing out or slipping would I hear a popping noise? I have heard no popping as of yet.

You guys are going to have to elaborate a bit on the bulks as Im not familiar with all the lingo yet eg; GA bulks , grey bulks...ect. I really like the looks of the hybrids but hesitate at the $140 price tag. If I go that route it says it take 1/8 buggy gears...are these all packaged in a set?