Actually I used the hinge pins that came with the FLM hybrid bulks. Longer pins would have gotten in the way of the servo saver. However, I did have to grind/shave off the collar to the plastic FXT A-arm bushing...I just needed like .05mm to make the hinge pin fit and that did the trick.

I used integy knuckles on my 1st monster truck...that was the straw that broke the camel's back...I'll never buy their products again. I know golden horizon makes some, but I wanted oversized bearings.

The UE is better...than the proline...but I have the proline on my other truck is does fine.

I got tired of watching the web for the UE saver. I ordered one and followed up with a couple of emails to Robin at UE and he got me one! Apparently the small sealed bearings are what holds up the process...he has a hard time getting them in stock.

Since I am here using Mike's forum...and learning a lot...I am feeling guilty for not throwing some $$$ his way. When I am ready to make the motor/esc purchase I will go thru him. Any recomendations? I am looking for straight brute power and speed.:032:

Quark 125 and a neu get you in the powergame. 5S would be a blast. IMO. the UE saver is the best savers money can buy.

Thanks Serum...I noticed Mike also sells a heatsink for the 125. Does that heatsink mount to the ESC case...or do you disassemble? I assume you disassemble, but since I've never seen one or worked with one I have no idea.

Here are some shots of the build so far:

I got to say that that maxx is looking killer... and on 5s with the 125 and neu, you'll be having unimaginable fun with that set up.

Thanks! I don't know a lot about lipo batteries...always avoided them because of the cost but now is a good time to convert.

I did receive my UE shafts and they do fit...but are a tad shorter than ideal for the FXT arms. I am going to have to tinker around with the setup and see what I can do to make things fit better.

UE shocks are AWESOME. Gotta hand it to UE....they didn't skimp on spare parts and everything was top quality.

I'll post more pics tomorrow.

New pics
 

Here are some pics of the FXT arms w/UE shocks and drive shafts.

can you take a pic from above? i'd like to see how the shocks angle is on the felxtek arms. i wasn't too keen on it sitting at an angle..

Looks great man!

Can't wait to see my flm chassis showing up at my doorstep.. :) I might give the FLM shocks a try as well.

You are right. The angles are a little undesirable...but there isn't any noticeable binding. I am a little worried about the drive shafts...they are just a hair short and my pivot balls are bottomed out....hmmm. There is room to work though and I think I can figure something out. Maybe put a small bushing on the inside of the knuckle bearing to "push" the dog bone into the drive cup? I would lose a little of the threads for fastening the wheel, but I think there is still enough.

Any Ideas?:032:

tbonz cvd not long enough
 

All,
This is a great thread because I'm having the same problem with my Tbonz. I'm using RPM arms. My RPM suspension arms are the same size as my stock E-Maxx (pre-WideMaxx) suspension arms. The Tbonz are about 1/4 inch too short and I don't understand why. I have the Fastlane Machine Chassis with the combo diff carrier/bulkhead with 1/8th scale diffs. I bought it all from Monster Mike.

I hope my LHS has some 3.3 sliders if that is the answer.

OldSoldier

Old Soldier
The T-bonz should be working for you? Do you have the pivot balls screwed in all the way? Also, check to see if you have too much suspension travel....you may have to reduce just a tad but the t-bonz should work.

Basically, you don't want the driveshaft to sit too deep. can you get a pic of how they are positioned now?

Serum,

I'll get a pic posted soon. But the dog bones were almost falling out of the diff drive cups....so I installed a 1mm washer on the inside of the steering knuckle and tuned the suspension just short of flat. The pivot balls are also bottomed out on the suspension arms. Now the dog bone is perfect in the drive cup...plenty of room for suspension travel and no fear of it falling out under load. I am just a tad disappointed with the amount of suspension travel I have...its more like a monster buggy than a Monster Truck.

Here it is now...

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6409

Scroll down to see

Yes, you may be right about the suspension travel, but I found one other problem...the rounded dogbone end of the Tbonz are too fat to fit in the drive cups of the HotBodies Lightning diffs I bought to go into the Fast Lane Machine hybrid diff housing/bulkhead. I ended up shaving all four dogbone ends down considerably to get them to fit inside the drive cups. This is getting painful! Where did I go wrong?

There are other diff cups that you can get...but it would be a major pain in the @ss to change all that out at this stage. You may want to consider getting new drive shafts. The problem is that in grinding down the dogbones they will probably wobble under load...which will probably cause premature wear on your bearings, diffs, and gears. Sorry.

I don't see them wobbling bad if grinded properly. It could cause the pins to break out eventually. But I have one on my girls truck that had to be shaved down and has not caused any issues as of yet. Try it out and keep an eye on it, if it's not working well, then you can consider new cups at that point.

Ah i had the same problem. I bought hb diffs and tsais cvds. they would not fit in the cups so i grinded them down. They became considerably weak and i broke the pin with my hand on one. i emailed mike and he told me (after i grownd down one cvd) i could use savage diff cups and they work fine with hb diffs because it is a co company to hpi and there diff construstion is simmilar. This will fix the problem of two small diff cups. Though because i had one growned down shaft and 3 goods, ther was no use in using them so i traded 3 t-bones for 4 sliders, and i am currently using the axel stub mod which works like a charm. I am getting 3.3 mip cvds in about 3 days though

Can you lay out what steps I would need to take to covert to sliders? I can't visualize how sliders connect to the drive cups of a Hotbodies diff. Do I need to go back to stock diffs to use sliders? I need to solve this before Memorial day weekend.

hi there!
 

i had the same problem and had to buy some UE cv's the longest ones they had and had to use a small spacer that came w/ the cv's .....if you use the spacer you will not have as many threds to screw your wheels on to, but it still works great w/a little lock tight!!!:025: i didn't know how to use the sliders and besides that the torque twisted my sliders!!!!!

here is a breif description on how to do it. It took me a while but it could have been better, but it is kindof hard to get everything exact in paint. sorry wording is very small mabey you could maginify it some how if you have any questions ask. http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...xelstubmod.jpg

Hot Bodies diff cups too small for tbonz CVDs
 

Does anyone know if MIP CVDs will fit into the drive cups that come with the Hot Bodies diffs?

OldSoldier

MIP and UE will fit

some cheaper alternatives with dust boots like THS do not

Thanks! This diagram clears it up for me. However, I don't feel like taking the diffs appart again. I just ordered some MIP CVDs so I'll see how they work. Thanks for all the help. Where did you find this documented (or did you do this yourself).

so the revo axle is 8mm in diameter?

6mm i believe that is why rd logics sells an 8mm axel kit as the upgrade.

I believe it's a 6mm as well. Maxx wheels bolt right on.

if they are 6mm how can u use them to make diff adapter for sliders when the bearing in diff is 8x16?

The diff sits between them Wallot. The collar of the diff is 6mm inner diameter and 8mm outer diameter.

you are right. thanks. easier to ask than the the truck apart :)

Just as as followup for anyone reading this thread in the future, the MIP CVDs worked with the HotBodies Diff cups.

Yes, they do, so do the UE cvd's.