Yeah, I ordered a Quark from my LHS. I didn't know that they could get them, but when I found out that they could, I ordered one.

The Compro is a wash. Once MGM determined that it wasn't a hardware problem, which is what I told them, they refused to believe that I could be having a software problem. They wouldn't tell me what I needed to do to send it in and now won't even return my emails. I got totally hosed. That's how it looks right now anyway. I'm going to try to email them a few more times, but I'm not feeling too confident about it. I'll probably sell it cheap or just throw it away at some point, if I don't find a use for it. With that motor braking, it might do OK in an on road car. Since there's going to be a whole lot less mass all the way around, it might not tear up the gears like it's doing with my truggy.

I was getting serious about switching to helicopters. The T-Rex is nice, but I want to get this truck right before I move on, just so that I'll know that it'll run like it's supposed to if/when I do need it.

I'll just run the Quark until something better comes along. Since I ordered it, I've done a bunch of reading up and it appears that the Quark has its own issues. It figures, but it's the best that available right now.

Griffin, it is likely that I'll have a MM to send you to "play" with. I'd just like to know if there is a possibility that I'll get something back that I'll be able to run at some point. Just to be able to say that I have something different.

Oh yeah, now I think I remember you saying something about getting it from your LHS. The Quark does have it's issues, but as long as you cool it well and don't run any higher than 5s, you should be fine. No matter what, all ESCs have the potential to burn up.

Also keep in mind that the Quark is technically a 1/10 scale ESC, according to another post from somewhere here. You should be fine, but don't expect miracles if you try to hook an LMT 3080/5 on it. ;)

Yeah, I have said this before, but I would like to see AC induction systems for RC. Particularly, from Rasertech, they have an Induction motor tech. with same power density as these brushless motors, and same efficiency (but, better at partial load). I think overall they would be a much better system that BL power, reasons being:

-extremely durable (AFA heat, and no magnets)
-more resistant to shocks and vibration, and extremely high running temp able
-glass smooth torque under all loads/speeds (no torque ripple, or cogging)
-able to turn off magnetic field (BL is always on)
-much less expensive
-more control over motor power/excitation

To me, that makes a better motor.

ZPB

I'd like to try one of Rasetech's alternators. It would be nice to have 100A+ on tap near idle compared to the measely stock one...

yah, those do look tempting, especially with a heavy audio system, but also audio capacitors help big time.

I wonder what the next motor WILL be for RC? The inverters for an RC sized motor would be simpler and smaller than BL controllers as well.

That's why I want a bigger alternator; because I have a heavy audio system. I would go with a class D amp for my sub, but don't like PWM DC going to a speaker - it just doesn't sound right. So, I'm using fairly inefficient class AB amps; 600w rms for the sub, and 300w rms for mids/highs. Caps help the pulses, but it's still a drain on the power and not good for a stock alternator. I would get a regular high-output alternator, but those usually have less current at idle compared to stock.

Anyway, I wouldn't mind something new. Although, these BL systems are very powerful and efficient. I'd rather see lighter, safer, smaller, and better performing batteries to be honest.

To be honest, once you look at the situation, every part in the power system for R/C cars need to be improved, one way or another. I'm not saying BL is no powerful or inefficient, that would be an oxymoron. :005:

I think the motors & batteries are becoming more powerful, but more quickly than the manufactures can design more powerful escs, at least for trucks at any rate. I saw on the CC website an esc for a boat that could handle 240 amps, and could be programmed via the castle link software thingy. Wonder if it could be ran in a truck, even if it did have limited throttle programs.....

Batteries have come a long way indeed in the last few years, but they also have a long way to go as well. BL motors are more than powerful enough, but like i've said before, I would like to see AC induction motors this size as they would be much more durable and less expensive. (maybe not at first)

The controllers are definitely in need of improvement, it seems like no manufacturer can make a controller with all the pros of a good controller. ex.

-Quark smoothness
-MM programmability
-MGM compro current handling
-cool running (proper thermal design)

It seems like they pick and choose one of those and only one to design the esc around. :032:

Stick those three escs into blender, and then bake in an oven for an hour or so.... the result should be just what we need.

Ok, I've got couple BK's and Schulze's ESC from Mike, later I will ad MM and MGM.
AAngel if you let me play with Quark you will be the first to end up with one!

Plan for MM to double the current and verification for any software current limits. For BK and alike to built new power boards with 300A capacity and 60V limit for now.

300Amps & 60v... nucking futs. I would love to see photos of the process (assuming it will be sucessful). The schulzes (which ones did you get?) could do with the better current handling for cooler running- then they would be great (Candyman runs one of the 18.97k with a bigmaxximum and it tends to get a little warm....).

18 kW ESC. This should be interesting...

Anyone up for a 1:1 scale conversion? :D

Me... check my sig! :027: ;)

future 18.61 and 15E , but I am looking for brains only so result would be like 48.300k :)

Are you sure that can be done Artur? Aren't the brains meant specifically for driving a certain FET?

What kind of package are you thinking? At the present time, is it better to use larger FET's (fewer), or more of a smaller FET?

Everything is possible, you can intercept signal and build output stage anyway you want. Looking at volume below 100 units there is no benefits in using smaller FET's but after testing it would be clear. In my opinion less components always more reliable and easy to fix.

Got some results on ESC's...

BK controller a little bit complicated to take apart but can be done
TOP view and Bottom view

Schulze - simple if not waterproof version
Top view and Bottom view

Mamba Max - easy to take apart and looks like poor design in output stage
Brains Top view, Brains bottom view, Fets top view and Fets bottom view.

Thank to Mike for provided ESC's.

Later next week I will put update on possibility putting two mamba boards in parallel.

As for now, I will put some time into fixing some of them and testing with new driver boards. After conversation with Mike, I decided to proceed with 6S version with 300A capacity.

Griffin,

Two mamba boards in parallel? Would this be similar to just soldering on a bunch of FETs in parallel to those already on the board? Forgive me if that is an ignorant question. It's just that I was thinking about it as I was sitting in court today. I wondered what the effect would be if I just soldered a bunch of FETs in parallel to those already there. Wouldn't that almost double the esc's ability to handle current? If this is just plain stupid, let me know. If it is a possibility, let me know that too. I'll source some FETs and maybe get lucky.

I don't know if this tells you anything, but I got back a couple of MMs that I sent to Castle for repair. The repair receipt says that the cause of the failure was "FET Failure." It also says, parts used:

6-BSC022N
2-F320
6-ISL6700
2-BAT54A
2-TL750
4-BAW56LT1
2-LM2665
2-LM3394

Obviously (I think) the prefix number preceeding the hypen is the number of components used to repair my two escs, but the rest of the stuff might shed light to someone that knows what they are doing.

6s...300A....:027:

How are you going to go about doing this? (package setup) What kind of FET's are you going to use?

GriffinRU: If you have look at my Quark case design, I am wondering how cooling all FET's very well will change current capability? I know it will probably ALLOW it to run to it's rated continuous current (most likely), do you think it could run a 2250 (with a bunch of added caps) in say a heavy 1/5, 1/6 scale on-road car?

Thank you, I will check on parts...
As far putting FET's on top each other, you can do that, but MAMBA MAX ESC is not the best one to try that. I need to do some homework to understand why they didn't install resistor in series with FET's gates, but that might be just mistake or trick which I need to find out. If you add more FET's then you definitely need to add resistors and maybe replace boost caps. Another thought what is working great with TO-220/D2-pak packages doesn't work great with SOIC/SO-8, I am afraid that in addition to soldering you need to use some bonding compound to hold chip in place and provide good heatsinking.
And, fundamentally, YES it would increase current handling and decrease internal resistance.

Griffin, thanks. I understood SOME of that.

With regard to the FET "gates," I'm assuming that the gates are actually traces on the pcb, or are they a component. Now adding resistors, where? What values would I need? I have a pretty good selection of SMT resistors, but would just as soon glue them to the heatsink, because I have no idea. I'm like a backyard mechanic. I can replace parts because they've gone bad, but don't necessarily have a full appreciation of the internal workings of an internal combustion engine.

As for the "boost" caps, are you referring to those cap mounted next to the heatsink? I believe that those are of the 220uf 25v variety. Would the 330uf 35v caps that I got suffice?

It's really going to kill me if I suffer through all of this, provided that I can get a clue, and Castle releases the MMM.

I am looking at IRF1324S-7 with 12 FET's total.

If you can keep temp low and under control then I do not see any problems with driving any scale model. But there is one thing which you need to consider, with every today's speed controller (with SO/SOIC) only one side has good heatsink, that means that only these FET's can be used in calculation for rated power dissipation (at elevated temp) and use derating factor as well. So if your quark has enough FET's to dissipated power of losses associated with 2230 motor at your working temp, then you should be Ok, otherwise that's would be your limiting factor.

Artur, does it hurt having all of that info in your head all of the time?

No, gates are pins on FET chip.
Well, there are couple ways how you can achieve that, first we can just add resistor in between gate pins (quick and easy bad) another way (good) would be cut the trace install resistor in place and then install second resistor in star type connection and connect it to other gate. It is pretty simple on the board but sounds complicating in explaining how-to. Also I am not ready to recommend that yet, I need to do some research with Mamba ESC.
Boost caps are not the big ones on the side, they actually small ones responsible for high side FET's drivers. I need to measure them first and then verify if their capacitance sufficient to drive additional number of FET's.

Yes, that's what I mean. It should keep all FET's very cool... the top FET's will have copper heatspreader to case, and the bottom FET's will be directly attached to case, it should work great!

I really am excited to see what comes out of your esc's for performance. What is the bigger problem then? -Getting the heat away from the FET's? -Or the number of FET's handling the power?

430A current capability, that's impressive!

:) Hobby :)

and stacking fets is ok with CC?

I see you went with the Quark, good luck with it.

I just wanted to let you guys know, for the right price castle will build you guys a custom esc. They did it for Tony Phalen.

That means there could be an opportunity for a bunch of people to all pitch in on paying them to do that...

Group Buy

More details and pricelist, please.

I'm surprised some engineer at Castle hasn't thought of a modular ESC idea. That way, they can use the same brains board, and just feed the signal to as many power boards as needed. Would be a little more pricey at first to come up with a modular unit, but would cut their costs on the long run. That is assuming their firmware/software was totally upgradeable like the MM...

Artur, again thanks for the information. I suppose that my ignorance is showing with the elementary questions, but I actually did understand what you said about the resistors on the gates. I am quite comfortable soldering on pcbs. I am typically working on pcbs about .5" in diameter and soldering 0603 size resistors to them, among other things. Working on the MM will be a walk in the park, so to speak.

Last question for now...I have 0603, 1206 and 1210 size resistors. Will any of these be of the appropriate size? I just hope that I have the proper values.

Questions are always welcome and there is no bad questions, 0603 are fine parts for ESC mods.

Well, I can't give you a price as I don't know what specs you want, but if you email or call Castle and tell them your serious about buying custom made ESC's, tell them it's for the caraction speed record challenge, you need so many for the team (that would allow for the group buy) and that your willing to pay whatever, then bargain to what you see fit.

Do you mean like this the CC super 300. :032:

Sort of, but I'd want a heatsink for each layer. :)

I think they dont heat at all in our standard Car setups. Avarage draw about 30-40A ~10% from Nominal

Brian, when I was talking about 6 wires (stand-alone brains and output stage), I was thinking about sensored setup... While with sensoreless system it would be difficult to create reliable system if motor feedback wires would be long. It is possible to buffer them and use line drivers or twisted pairs, but that would be not a clean and simple solution. So I will put brains close to output stage.
Meanwhile, mambamax conversion is in process, updates will follow.