Smart move.

I thought the sport was hard cased?

http://www.dimensionengineering.com/SportBEC.htm

no its not . not even on the picture. i got it couple days ago and did not connect it yet but it looks nice.


I am starting to have too many UBECs laying around :) have the one from Mike, dimension one and two cheap (5-15cells) from ebay.

i will have 2 spare so guess I need 2 more trucks :)

I see that, yes, I was simply stating that it LOOKS and I thought it was a hard case. The ebay ones for me never did the trick. Mike's did great so far, and I bought the sport a few days ago and waiting for it's arrival as well. They shipped it first class, so it could a month before it gets here! LOL

I can see from the pic that the other side has the components sticking up/out- its just flat on one side. Looks rather good though, may have to get one when the time comes...

i got the ebay ones for miniquake as they are quite small ( i did not know about the dimension ones that time) well got them for $15 including postage for one
and they work and are 5/6V switchable

the ebay ones are actually hard case which is nice as well

newe....glad to here that you ordered the park UBEC...if you need anyhelp on how to install...give me a call.....lol

However, I have a few questions that I am hoping that you all will help me answer:

1. Are you pleased with the performance of the Monster Pro ESC?
Yes,Iam
2. If you have the RC-Monster heatsink, was it difficult to install? Pictures?
I got pics here in this forum try the search thing not difficult to install
3. How would you charatcerize programming difficulty?
OK not too bad,they have a video on their website
4. Have you had any experience running 5S with the Monster Pro? Any problems?
Nope not on 5s only on 4s with hacker 9XL and NEU 1515 1Y
5. Are there any alternatives that are better than the Monster Pro? Why?
_I haven't tried the mamba maxx controller but for racing this is hard to beat due to smoothness compared to my MGM 24 160_________________

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions.

Hi evrey one sorry to jump in but would anyone be able to give me the web site for the Quark 125 pro i want to watch the vid ,i have tryed to find it . I have ordered the g3r and all the goodies to go from Mike,and should be hear anyday. Iam a real newbe when it comes to brushless so your help would be most welcomed. Thanks Simon

http://www.sky-technology.net/home.htm

here you go

Thanks sjcrss

I had to say, I got a bad Monster Pro. I got to run it all of about 2 minutes before I started having problems. I shipped it off last Monday. I got an email telling me that a unit was shipped back to me on this past Friday. That's pretty quick. I should have it today.

Unfortunately, I crashed my 8ight T yesterday and I won't have the replacement parts until Thursday.

Now thats irony for you. It does suck somewhat when you get an item thats bad 'out of the box' , but it does happen sometimes, with most electrical items. Never mind, at least Quark have a good aftersales team.

Not to hijack or anything, but it seems that we have all of the Quark owners here, so...the manual says to use either a radio pack on a digital bec. I used a linear bec with my Quark, before I realized it. Can this give me problems?

I just got my Quark back in. It's a brand spankin' new unit in a sealed box. New connectors, the works.

EDIT***Ok, I just pulled the Quark out of the bag, and one of the motor leads fell off. This cannot be happening!

Wow! You have just about the worst luck with R/C stuff that I have EVER seen! Remind me to never let you near my stuff, lol.

Seriously, was it a poor solder joint, or is the PCB broken?

Oops. Pic please, if only for comedy value.

No pics. It was just a cold solder joint, but it makes me wonder what else there is that's gonna fall off. It's all soldered back up, but now I'm thinking that I might just do away with those little cups all together and solder the wires directly to the pcb.

I think you should be OK. The surface mount IC's and other internals are generally wave soldered and usually does a decent job. The items done manually are the ones I'd watch for; like the motor wires, switch, servo wire, power wires, and main caps.

Brian, I'm not sure if that was supposed to be reassuring or not. LOL. I didn't check all of that. Now that I have the six cap bank soldered up, I can't get to all of that stuff without de-soldering the cap bank.

In anycase, if we ever meet; I promise not to ask to run any of your vehicles. I'd hate to make you feel bad having to tell me "no." The new Quark seems to be running OK. I'm going to hit the calculator to figure out a good gearing for 5S on the 9XL.

lol, hopefully the Quark treats you right after all you've been through! If it starts thermalling though, prepare to do the internal mod. It's a little bit of a PITA, but not overly hard, and is well worth it IMO. I've done it to both my Quarks and results have been pleasing.

Yeah, but if I do the mod, then I won't be able to have it fixed when the symptoms of the defects that this one has start to manifest themselves. I just know my luck.

I've already epoxied my 6 cap bank to the bottom of the Quark, and I'll have to desolder the bank to open up the Quark to check it out. I may just throw the MM back in and run that until I feel like messing with the Quark.

bit late revisting this thread but have you considered a combo of mechanically capturing the motor leads onto the pcb joints in addition to soldering? I think one of my fried quarks (the one that smoked to hell) may have been due first to excessive overheating without thermalling, that melted the solder....releasing one of the leads and letting it touch an adjacent lead. Mechanial/soldered joints are lower in resistance of all connections from what I understand. Dunno, just a thought.

Can one of Mike's UBEC's be used with the Quark 125?? :yes: Dig the new smilies.

Yes. UBECs are not dependant on what ESC you use.

Thanks Brian :intello:

I am fairly pleased with mine, has strong brakes and massive acceleration. Don't have heatsink, yet, but it sure does need one will burn fingers after a hard run. Programming is somewhat difficult. took me a few trys to get all parameters right. I use a Maxamps 5 cell, runs great, plenty of power, long run times (120 amp cont. discharge, 6000mah) no problems. the monster pro is probably the best if u dont have mechanical brakes like on a G-maxx revo (i have one) but if u do have mech. brakes, use a Castle HV 125, it is about $40 cheaper, it is lighter, handles more power, and customer service is great. Be careful with brakes on Monster Pro (front flips anyone?)

yeah, the brakes can be a bit touchy, but if you reduce the break power in programming, it is much smoother.

Don't forget, the 125B is technically a 1/10 scale ESC, much like the MM. So using it in a MT/truggy/buggy, it will work it harder. Doing the "internal mod" (despite the loss of a warranty) and adding a heatsink does wonders. Also, adding a couple extra caps helps a lot too...