So maybe 12 cells, 7XL, mamba max esc gear for 45-50, keep everything lightweight meaning no added aluminum. I said in an earlier post that I decided to tone things down to 50 mph. Lipo is not an option, my family has banned lipos and I really do not think they are safe enough for truck bashing use. My current setup is the kershaw designs dual 970 ,motor setup, which goes 45 mph and has a very high center of gravity, much higher thank stock, I set them up with a high ground clearence and had now difficulty handling the truck.
Take a look at the picture of the slammed maxx on this page, I am using those towers and will slam the truck low for street handling. I only hope the mamba esc could take a 7XL on 12 cells, but I am prepared and to use an 8XL if I could safely gear it up to 7XL ground speed. In all cases, lithium is out of the question, decision by family (parents), and something I can't control. About the motor bearings, I would never run a motor that fast, I just was curious about what the motor would do at those speeds. I guess it would self destruct. My motor will be heatsinked. I will spend most time in first gear, second gear only for occasional speed passes on the street.

Just researched and have figured the 7XL is too much for the controller, I will use a the 8XL instead.

OK, I don't remember. Have you ever built a brushless monster truck before? I'm just asking, because you seem to be very pre occupied with speed. Of course, most of us go through that stage, but it comes when you get to a point where you have gained some experience.

If this is your first conversion, I think that you should be looking for a solid setup that will turn on and roll when you want it too. I'd go with a MM and a 9XL. A nice conservative setup that will surprise you with its speed when geared right.

I would say an MM & 8xl or 9xl was about perfect to start with too. If you take a look at the thread "bombproof products truck quick vid" you will see that someone who has a vast amount of money (must have to keep replacing toasted escs) & experience with a truelly awesome truck, with massively powerful batteries - 36v lithium - and serious BL motor, yet he can only manage 59mph because parts keep failing on him. Now take a look at your stock, plastic, standard wheel base truck with high CoG, and try to imagine the technical problems you will face, let alone the finacial costs. If you want a fast truck, convert a mini-t to BL with a MM setup, and it will easily do 60+mph (videos on BYT). Food for thought.....

Hear hear, this is the way to go.

Its makes no sense either that you would build a truck "toned down to 50mph", and then drive in 1st most of the time. :032: You're likely to overheat the system as well if you undergear/over rev it. Build something solid first, then worry about landspeed records when you get more $ and the ability to use lipos.

I'll second that. Under gearing is just as bad as overgearing really, just in a different way. Better to have a nice light but strong truck, and match it to a sensible BL setup. The 8xl on 12cells & MM is perfect, take a look around and you will see someone has a 6.8lb Emaxx- the suggested BL setup in a truck that light will easily make it push 40mph or more = a light truck can be geared a little higher for more speed with out overly stressing the esc.

Hi-Power & Stock Truck = VERY BAD NEWS....

BUT VERY ENTERTAINING VIDEO FOOTAGE! :005:

Why does Candymans rusty spring to mind when you say that?...
That is/was a very good example of the problems involved with high HP in a stock layout. Nails, zip-ties, lumps of alloy.... poor thing.

At the very least the Emaxx need steel idlers, STRONG cvds, and 3.3 diffs to handle any kind of power. Then you can spend money on replacing the bulks/a-arms as they snap after every slight bump/jolt. Lowering the suspension & adding stiffer springs would help the handling alot too.

Yep. Lots of upgrading.

I've had success with stock diffs modified with alloy diff cases, FLM diff cups, and EP grease or more recently my own creation "MAXX LUBE" no jokes please. Quiet Rene!

It's a Extreme Pressure Lube lighter than grease, stick to parts like you won't believe, and has a higher filmstrength than most if not all EP grease.

I'm no chemist let alone a lubricant engineer (Quiet Rene!) but in collaboration with a major mfg. as a "pet project" we came up with a winner.

I should really get some alloy diff cases & 3mm screws, but they cost like $30 each- Sleeb knows where he can get some for $10, but I havent managed to prize that info out of him yet- need to pester him.
As for the MAXX LUBE..... *didnt need to say anything, the huge smirk on his face said it all*

I remember my RC10T4. I was running a 7700 mamba max system in that on 3S lipo. I could almost sit and watch the parts fall off of that thing.

Just curious....
 

I recognize that there is a ton of experience in this forum...I see a ton of rock solid recommendations on how to build the "perfect" brushless monster truck. Specifically, single brushless setups are the favored approach among 99% of those members on this forum. Just curious how many have actually built and driven a dual brushless setup? What approach was taken in terms of power supply (batteries) and motors?

In all honesty...the debate has intrigued me ever since I saw it posted on another forum. So I decided to build my own dual brushless setup just to see for myself. This way I learn...and will know from experience. My entire build is documented at:

http://picasaweb.google.com/ssspconcepts/TitanMaxx

:032:

I'm not saying that dual motor setups aren't nice. They are and look cooler than anything, when done right. It's just that the additional weight associated with running two motors isn't justified by the increase in performance. The motors also don't act completely in sync, so you don't actually realize a 100% increase in power at the wheels.

I'll be honest and say that I've never built a dual brushless setup, but on the other hand, actually doing it doesn't make it a good idea either.

I was sincerely looking for folks that have built dual BL setups and the approach they used...I was not trying to question anybody's expertise.

In my case, both ESCs are wired in parallel (i.e., battery plug and receiver plug-wired parallel). I also got a deans parallel battery plug adapter so that the batteries are also parallel to get more current to the ESCs. It is the same setup that castle used to run the barbie jeep...which carried a full grown adult.

It might take awhile to complete my experiment, but I plan to document vehicle weight, speed, run times, temps, etc. Eventually I'll switch out the Mamba BL for the Quark/Neu combo and replicate my documentation.

I would imagine that running two systems might come of age when you can run two brushless motors from the same controller.

I'm not saying that having two motors won't be powerful. I'm just saying that there are better ways of going fast. If you put two 8XL motors in an emaxx, I'll bet it'll pull shopping carts around all day long. No question that the brute power will be there. I thought we were talking about going fast.

What is the idea behind running the escs and batteries in parallel. Isn't that the same as running two independent systems, but with more wiring?

Bernie at Castle tells me that this assures that power draw and power consumption is "leveled" evenly between the two systems...essentially making the dual MM one system, and making the dual 3S packs one power source. Makes sense to me.

BTW...there are speed gains to be had...atleast in theory. Just plug in a 5700kv motor into the speed calc application....the simulation is impressive. I am going to find out if the simulation holds up to real world performance.

ssspconcepts do you have any closer pictures of the way you put together that T connector for your battery leads?

Or even an explanation? I was about to start on trying this myself :)

I've seen that connector at RCPCRAWLERS

http://rcpcrawlers.com/pics/accessor...leGPMM3142.gif

thanks snellemin !

tower sells that one too, if it's easier for you to order from them.

I have decided that to be safe with the esc, I will go for the MGM 160. I am now considering a 7XL, or if a 6XL would work, I will take that. I know I will not go above 12 cells. If a 7XL has been used on a 5s lipo, I think a 6XL would be good on 12 cells. I will use the rc-monster heat sink motor clamp. Runtime for me is not an issue.

Spot on...that's what I used...tower sells it for about $7

using this conector gets you double voltage not runtime right. FOr example if you used this with a quark, and 2p2s 4000mah maxx amps would you have (1) a 8000mah 2s battery pack or (2) a 14.8volts going to the controller at 4000mah.

If you used this parallel plug with a quark, and 2p2s 7.4V 4000mah maxx amps would you have: 7.4V with 8000mah

Batteries in parallel double current...not voltage.

Batteries in series double voltage...not current.

Brian has a good cheat sheet for this on his profile.

I have realized just what I was buying and how much it would cost: 2 Wanderer XL motors, 2 mgm 16016 escs, dynamite quad battery chassis, strobe slipper

I want to have a good setup so I will use the mgm 12032, neu 2215/2y, fastlane machine chassis, 32 cells, ue diffs, and gear 48/64. Using BrianG's calculator this works 65mph. The motor rpm would be 28,800. Could the motor and speed control handle this setup. I found a video of an alluminum emaxx on 16 cells doing 360 degree backflips with a plettenburg bigmaxximum, I want to try a 720 degree backflip. The video is here:
http://www.e-revo.info/VWT4's_Supermaxx_Lightning_By_Potreinas.wmv
I will post video of my truck and setup.

Although the esc is rated for 32 cells, I would be weary of actually using 32, maybe 28/30 to be on the safe side. As for that video..... yeah, got some power in that set up.....

So what controller is good for 32 cells and the Neu 2215/2y? No Schulze. Also looking at lehner. How would the Neu 2215 compare to the lehner 2240, 2250, or the 2280 in terms of power? What could push the most power? Does the 2280 have a 5mm shaft? Would you suggest a neu or lehner motor if in the United States? What motor is physically more durable (outer can and internals)?