Wowwwwwwww:surprised: I want this setup in my revo:intello:
Can't wait to see another video but in the sand this time:oh:

Way cool! Looks like it wheelies on demand at any speed! Gonna have to learn some finger control, lol!!

Wheelies on demand and tires balloning 15 minutes into the bash. It was incredible. Next some jumps.........

I could see the tires ballooning, that is some freaky powerful set up there.

Neil,
I still can't wipe the silly grin off my face.
Mark

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:


Ultimately the RC hobby (no matter how much you may spend) will still be FAR less expensive than the 20-yr old blonde!

That's all I have to say about that! :mdr:

+1 to that statement; hence why I've stayed single all my life (through choice, honest).

what gearing are you running and how is the mesh. WHat size pinion with the 51t gear do you atleast need to use for the mesh to work.

52t mod1 Associated gear and a 17t pinion.

Thanks for posting that Neil.

Sorry GorillaMax360, I have not checked this thread in a while. I was worried about the gears meshing because of the Neu hitting the tranny so measured the distance between the tranny input shaft and the motor shaft. I then used Brian's gear calculator to come up with the gears. I had to use the Associated gear because I still have the stock slipper. I have a stobe on the way so i may try some different gear ratios in the future.

Here it is: http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_gear_calc.html

I got a chance to do a little bashing today. Sorry no vids but some teperatures for those that have asked.

I ran 4s1p 4900mAh batts until the LVC shut me down. Ambient temp was 87F. Gearing is 52t spur and 17t pinion.

With a body with vent holes:
motor was 127F
esc was 105F

Without a body:
motor was 126F
esc was 103F

:love: my Neu

Those are excellent temps. I would say you could (if you wanted to) go up at least one or two teeth on the pinion- that shoulf give you abit more topend & equalize the temps between the motor & esc (motor will come down a touch & the esc will go up a touch).

Thanks for the advice. I'll try that and then update you guys.

Nope, Neu's are not Feigao motors... they do not get cooler when you increase the load, they progressively increase in temp, and the ligher the load and higher the rpm, they run cooler. And they are not picky motors like the Feigao motors, there is no optimal loading that has to be found. Just gear for what speed you want and keep the temps in check.

I did not know that either. It is plenty fast right now. I may try a few speed runs with different pinions.

Mike sure does know his motors. I explained to him my truck, my RC experience and what I wanted. He recommended this motor. I couldn't be happier!:party:

with a lower total overall gear ratio should i expect less temps from the motor or more. for example i want to run a 49t spur gear and a 20t pinion but i have 1/8 buggy diffs instead of stock maxx (ratio) diffs. with the same calculations as mkrusedc except different diffs and spur and pinion my ratio comes out to be 13.95662 : 1 and his setup comes out to be 14.99346 : 1. does this mean i can expect hotter or colder temps out of my Neu. and if so would it be a small change(like about 10 degrees F).

That much of a small difference... your driving style will have more of an impact than that. It could run cooler, or it could run warmer, I couldn't tell you.

But under the same driver, virtually nothing as far as temp increase. You probably wouldn't feel a difference as far as temps goes.

Damn cheap feigaos, they've ruined my logic & sense of reasoning.:oops:

Yes, when I came to the world of brushless, the fact the way the Feigao's act as a motor was just so alien to me... they are simply cheaper motors, which at the very least make your R/C move, and move fast might I add.

GorillaMaxx360 was asking about how well the Neu fit because of its size.

It fits flush against the smaller side of the GorillaMax single speed tranny. I originaly tried my Neu with a MM. To prevent cogging I would need the smallest pinion that would fit. I also knew I was going to have to use, at least initally, a stock slipper with a 52t mod spur. Using Brian's gear calculator and measuring the distance between between the motor shaft and the input shaft I came up with the smallest pinion that would mesh, a 17t.

Here is the mesh seen from the rear. I used the "put a piece of paper between the gear" to get a good mesh.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL143.../282385026.jpg

Everybody that mentioned something about my diffs was correct. :yes: I lost my front diff yesterday after bashing. My next update will be FLM hybrids and HPI gears.

Yeah, hmmm, who was that, gee, hmmm...... :whistle:

SO just verifing here just to make sure.

1. so assuming i the same circumstances and same driver with my setup i should experince little to nothing temp difference. (not saying that when i run my car i should expect those temps).
2. the total lower gear ratio does that mean higher or lower temps generally when dealing with the neu motors.

That would seem to be correct, yes. My thoughts are that gearing a little lower will result in a cooler esc, and gearing a little higher will make it run abit hotter- but the motor wont change much, if at all temp wise really. This learning curve is steeper than K2....

Some times gearing a motor lower makes it run warmer. Don't know why just does.
Think it has something to do with efficency.

Guess thats why the feigaos always run hot- poor efficiency.
It would be nice to know the optimum rpm range for different motors at any given voltage, rather than just guessing at the 30-40,000rpm range.

Silly question: how do you actually pronounce 'feigao'? Thats always puzzled me abit...

I ask a friend at work what the Chinese symbol from Feigao's web page is pronounced. He said it is pronounced close to fe-go. He said it means "going upwards"

It's puzzled me as well, I've always pronounced it "Fay-Gao". Guess I was a close

I pronouce it: 'Fee-ya-go'

But that is just me.... :whistle:

I'm with ZPB. :whistle:

Me three.:whistle:, but looks like we may have been wrong.

Well I thought I busted my front diff, which had me a little puzzled because usualy it is the rear that goes first. Well I took apart my front end and....... no drive cup screw!! I thought I had put Locktite on all of them but I guess not.:oops:

Can you say noob mistake?:oops:

Well even besides the mistake... the front can go almost as often as the rear if you brake a lot, there is moe stress on it when braking.

Thanks. Never really thought of that. Maybe because I usually break, umm... I meant brake, by hitting something.

Do you mean no screws as in they were snapped, or did you leave them out completely?
I forgot if your using the stock cups or ally ones.

hehehe :rofl:

Patrick I have stock cups with RC-Monster dogbones. The screw loosened and eventually spun out.

Oh, I hadn't heard of the screws loosening in the plastic cups, but then most of the higher powered maxx's aren't using stock cups.
The screws in my FLM cups have loosened before. They work their way out and start machining the outer case, until they rip up a big bit of metal, get jammed and completely lock the drive train. A bit confusing when my car front flipped while driving and wouldn't roll any more.
Moral of the story is to loctite the screws and do them up really tight.

It was the one screw that to loctite it I had to do some disassembly. You can't be lazy in this hobby because sooner or later it come back to bite you on the butt. Lesson learned.

I have a few questions.

I just got my Strobe slipper and the only spur that fits is the Onfa 51 correct? This is mod1 not 32p correct?

Given the temps I have been running do you think I could go up a few teeth on my pinion? If so 18? 20?