This is the PowerRacing Katana - look at the name on the wheel.

http://www.powerracingrc.com/images/katana/katana4.jpg

Thanks for those links, especially the parts source.
I just placed an order to larrys performance for some carbon and aluminum goodies, and something called a front brace tie rod, which Im hoping will be a brace between the bellcrank upper plate and the center diff cover.

The Power Racing parts fit, for the most part.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...s/S5000357.jpg
The carbon front upper brace fits fine, as do the lower arm mounts. The upper arm mount fits, but I had to mount it on the underside of the front brace, the opposite of the stock location. It also doesnt match the picture on their website, so I think they might have sent the wrong one. The front brace tie rod isnt what I had hoped for, its meant to brace the front upper brace to the chassis plate. I will have to move things around if I decide to use that.
I also finished the cooling setup on my mm.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...s/S5000360.jpg
Since I took these pictures, Ive flipped the servo and saver arm over to the inside to make room for a future second battery on that side. Maybe 6s on a MMM. Id like to do 8s and buy a neu 1515 2y and an MGM 9032, but thats too much money for me.

may i ask why you would want to do 8s?

i see people doing high voltage projects... is this so there is basically no heat generated?

i mean if 6s on a 2.5d is the same as 4s on a 1y why not just get the 1y since it will be cheaper for the 4s battery?

i realize the 1y and 4s is only 32k where as the 6s on 2.5 is 37 but im saying IF they were the same

does this make any sence? lol

Well, because current is the contributing factor to heat generation. The less current used, the less heat produced.

Since watts is the power output of a vehicle, and watts = Voltage X Amps (current). When you up the voltage, current can fall and watts will stay constant. Less current means less heat (as well as more runtime, if you want to think of it that way).

To produce 1000 watts, a 10V setup would have to pull 100 amps. However, a 25V setup would have to pull just 40 amps.

Because motor rpm isnt the only thing that determines the systems power output.
From what I understand, and there are much more knowledgeable people than me on this board, amps are what cause heat buildup in most ESCs. Also, the amp load capability of the battery can be a major limiting factor in the total power output. So keeping the amp load low is important for efficiency and longevity of everything in the system. Since power is determined by amps and volts, the only way to lower the amp requirement without losing power is to also increase the voltage. It also works the other way, the only way to increase power without increasing the amp load is to increase voltage.

BP revo beat me.

So does voltage directly effect motor efficiency? Ive seen people calculate power output by multiplying the motor efficiency by the watts drawn from the battery. Then its assumed that the extra 10-25% is turned into heat. If less amps also means less heat, is that any different from using a better motor?

ok so i was kinda right.

keeps heat down and improves efficiency

i just bought this.
http://i1.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/bf/49/c918_3.JPG

its the onroad car yusa 1/8th scale. i may have to buy a single speed center diff for the conversion, but i always wanted a 1/8th buggy converted rally car, and couldn't pass up $79.

btw, he has another buggy for sale.

P = V * I

V = I * R

Hence Power = Amp * Amp * Resistance

Motors have fixed resistance (Ignoring heat changing the resistance of the coper wire ).

Therefore Power loss (aka heat generated) increases with the square of the increased amp draw...

This is why people go for increasing the voltage and decreasing the current to maintain a fixed power

Hey, let me know how you like it, im always looking for a rally chassis, its what got me into the hobby, but i have a hard time finding anything

...and then there were THREE
 

OK guys Yusa Buggy #3 is on it's way.

The ultimate head to head testing:

1 - Nitro Buggy
1 - Direct NTB (Nitro to Brushless) Conversion that retains disk brakes
1 - Plate (RC-Monster style) NTB conversion that has the motor handle breaking.

So far here is the propulsion I have to test.
Brushless
Neumotor 1515/1Y
Neumotor 1512/2.5D
Hacker C50S Maxx
Hacker C50S 11L
Medusa Research 2200Kv 10th scale motor with heat sink
Novak HV4.5R System
Castle Mamba Max ESC
I am sure a Tekin will end up there somewhere.

Nitro - We'll see if they all fit
Nitro Star F4.1
Nitro .26 Hotbodies
Traxxas 3.3R

Should be a fun but very long test.

Under penalty of death and divorce my wife assured me that this would be the last and final Yusa buggy I purchased. :(

new guy here. I bought the last Yusa buggy
 

and his .27 Infinity motor to go with it. Ill get it together and post pics.. :)

hey B15.. you ever get the parts from larrys for yours? How were they??
Frank

for you guys who converted your to electric.. Ya want to get rid of your parts you ripped out?? I can use spares:)

I can't speak for B15, but I've ordered spare parts for my Yusa 1/8 rally conversion from Larrys.I got my stuff in about a weeks time.

thanks..

I did also, read near the bottom of the third page.

ok missed it.. Thanks..

Just received the Thunder Tiger EB4 S2 "PRO" RTR from RC Car as payment on an article. This looks pretty much part for part a Yusa. The bad news and very sad part is that the Yusa is a much higher quality build. The EB4 doesn't even have sway bars, or adjustment nuts on the links. It's like Thunder Tiger took a decent cheap roller chassis and then stripped it of everything good.

Feel I got a better deal on the Yusa's by the moment.

Post some pics if you can.

didn't one of the rc car mags do a test on one this month and said how it was set up for pavement and was horrible on the dirt? They had to change quite a bit to get it to handle on the track..

[Begin Rant] :diablo::slap:
Uhhh, yeah... as brutal of a review that was they were being kind. :whip: With one way grub screws as links and without dual threaded adjustment nuts on any links the Thunder Tiger it was/is a nightmare to tune, so much so that at a point they kind of just gave up on trying to tune the thing. It is tunable, however it's a pain and the factory settings are just stupid. I also forgot to mention it has fixed tension on the servo saver - which sucks. Someone early on said they wouldn't waste their money on a Yusa , I would say unless you are desperate, strapped for cash, and have an anything will do just get me a buggy mental moment, the Thunder Tiger is a poor choice. Honestly I am not really sure what Thunder Tiger was thinking.

Last night I did a partial tear down and side by side with one of my Yusa rollers. The problem as I see it is that other than the Aluminum front hubs everything else would be a downgrade if I started moving parts to the Yusa. :cry:

FYI - RC Car floggs their test vehicles viscously. The Thunder Tiger unit they sent over had a bent deck, front shock tower, caster link, both front shock shafts were bent and the tires were bald. I of course straightened everything out and will simply just flog this thing until something breaks and sell it on ebay. I should probably continue this on some other post....
[End Rant] :eyes:

Yea I know. I used to work as a writer for a small time automotive mag years ago so I know how it works:)
anyway.. I was wondering IF the Tigers aluminum hubs fit the Yusa(Mine is due in today:)) and I think you answered my question.. Now I have to find a Thunder Tiger supplier for em..
Frank

I really wouldn't use the Thunder Tiger Parts...
 

I would use parts from the Katana.

Hit Ebay and search for Katana Buggy.

Tony

I thought the katana by Power Racing was also a plastic knuckle. Only the Tiger is aluminum.. no?

BTW- I did get my Yusa today. WOW. This thing is built well. Im very happy so far,. Im fitting the engine as I write this.. Got a Team Infinity .27..

Yeah sorry...Yes the Thunder Tiger knuckles will work however I wouldn't use other parts.

Also FYI just fitted a Proline Crowd Pleaser Mugen MBX Body and it fit PERFECTLY.

and I fitted a crowd pleaser body for the Kyosho and it too fit perfectly ..

I just dropped a factory .26 Hot Bodies into once of my Yusa rollers. It should move along nicely with that motor.

For those of us who bought the Yusa 1/8 scale onroad sedan(or as Yusa advertises them,Rally car),if you need to replace the front and rear body mounting posts,Ofna part # 33011.This is for Ofnas Titan monster truck and their GTP,1/8 scale sedan.

now that I had a few days to dig in to it. i can see that its a 100% exactly same as the Protech Enigma XS. I used the manual link someone here posted and its 100% indentical..

Frank

Nice thread and info guys... I have not picked one up yet but it's tempting, esp since you guys have dug up the dirt on what parts work and what other clones this car has.

The rally version is a pretty neat car really.

couple pics with Infinity .27 and crowd pleaser body
 

its coming along nice..:)

Hey Stampy,hows the testing coming along.......?

f$$450%^*(........ ARGGG Thanks for reminding me how far behind I am on projects.

See this I am burnt out at the moment.
http://www.stampedeproject.com/Ode-t...apy-Buggy.html

My life has been nuts lately. On top of a work promotion that has taken a ton of my after hours time, the holidays, family/company, articles that have taken priority or have taken way way to long, life and this idiot at our mall here in Omaha, I am pretty physically and emotionally burnt out at the moment.

I did get two of the Yusa's set up and running. The direct conversion and a gas versions are done. Waiting on servos for the last as well as fab'ing a servo mount plate. Mike offered to throw something together, but I know he is really busy with the holidays, so I really don't want to bug him.

I just picked up a Proxxon $350 mini-mill that even after just a couple little jobs, is blowing me away. It accepts all my existing Dremel bits so you can even do some cool stuff like precision sanding.... but that's a different story all together. "IF" I have some time it shouldn't take me more than an hour or so to whip out a motor mount plate.

I am really excited about this project if I can get some freaking shop time. Initial test showed that a relatively low powered ESC might be able to run the buggy just fine - such as the new Castle Sidewinder system with a low KV motor such as Medusa Products 2200Kv standard 540 sized motor. The big BUT is that the ESC cannot handle braking or reverse, it's just too stressful.

Realistically it will be well after the Christmas before I can dive back into it. We will see.

No problem man.....just enjoy your holiday.

Very close to getting all three up and running.

I had to pull the engine on the nitro version, install an HPI pull start on the engine. While I was at it I dropped the head into the tumbler to bring the original luster back up and then milled a couple cross hatches in the head with my new $350 Proxxon MF-70 Mini-Mill. I also used the mill to make a plate for the plate style NTB conversion. Pics coming soon.

http://proxxon.com/us/images/produkte/37110.jpg
http://proxxon.com/us/

niccceeeeee:mdr:

Here is the mount I made with the Proxxon Mini-mill.

Go easy this is the first thing I have really made with the mill.

http://stampedeproject.com/Yusa-Kyos...y/IMGP3893.JPG

http://stampedeproject.com/Yusa-Kyos...y/IMGP3894.JPG

http://stampedeproject.com/Yusa-Kyos...y/IMGP3889.JPG

http://stampedeproject.com/Yusa-Kyos...y/Imgp3892.jpg

Looks good! You have plenty of adjustment, so that you could run a huge pinion for some top speed runs! (and esc/motor heat testing:wink:)

The mount looks really nice, i wish I had a mill! I would make all kinds of stuff, and not just rc related!

Also, where did you get the mill?