I don't have an Eagletree but I do want to get one, I too am interested in what kinda of amps I'm pulling. How easy is it pull out and put in? Maybe next time we're at the track you could toss it in my Revo and drive it around for a couple laps, or, you could run my battery on your setup. By the way, since mine is a 4S and yours is 3S, it might lower the amps a bit. I want to get a TrueRC 4S2P 8000 pack, they're not as long or wide and would fit the tray better, plus, I won't have to worry about finishing the main.

I don't know the speed, I'll plug it into Brians calculator and get an estimate, but it's plenty fast for the track. Runtime is around 12-18 min, depending on how hard I'm driving. It weighs slighty more then my nitro setup but I don't notice the weight at all, hopefully I'll get an actual weight this week. Temps are listed already, but it was like 160 motor, 115 ESC, 110-120 battery. Expect lower temps with a better motor like a neu.

I'll be sure to bring my eagletree next time I'm at the track - or maybe we can meet up at palomar sometime for some practice. I won't be able to race this weekend. I have some family obligations to attend to.

I have one of the TrueRC 4S2P 8000 packs. The thing is an absolute brick. I'm running it in my LST2. It's definitely up to the task for that application.

Updated pics! I've read some forums and heard questions about front rear balance with the Tekno setup and I have so far not had any ill effects, it actually feels good in the air, mostly level flight. Having said that I was not getting as much steering as I was with my nitro version on and off power, the front didn't seem to want to dig in. Now, there could be a number of reasons why, I am now running a swaybar setup, wasn't with the nitro (I believe this to be the main reason, I may remove the front swaybar at the race, we'll see), I am now using the longer 3.3 chassis which lengthens the front whereas before I was using the 2.5, and lastly there is a lot more weight in the back. So, in the interest of trying new things, I moved the battery to the front right and the receiver box to the back right. Fairly simple mod, rx box lined up with stock chassis holes, nothing to drill. The battery tray required me to drill 3 new holes in the tray itself, but still use stock chassis holes. It seems to hang off but the tray has walls so it's not flimsy and it rests on the chassis in the back. Here's the pics, questions comments are encouraged!:yes:
Oh, before anyone says anything, yes, I know the fan is broken- stupid me was adjusting shift point, not running a rollbar or body, wheelied and ripped the fan right off. MM is fine though, whew!
http://inlinethumb26.webshots.com/28...600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb19.webshots.com/29...600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb35.webshots.com/28...600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb03.webshots.com/29...600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb46.webshots.com/28...600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb48.webshots.com/28...600x600Q85.jpg

Also, don't mind the grinding on the middle of the tray, I was running it upside down in my 8ight conversion and needed a flat surface for the battery pack.

You got a build of the 8ight anywhere?

Right here

Are you using the mechanical break or do you use the breaking setting of the esc?

Hi and welcome to the forum.

The Tekno kit employs the use of mechanical brakes.

I know - i already own one of these .. i am waiting for my revo roller :yipi:
I am gonna build it with a Feigao 8XL running on 4s Lipo and a hexTronik 120Amp controller.

My last problem -at the moment- is about wiring esc and the servo used for mechanical brakes :oops:

Ok - I didn't understand your original question. There are two ways to do it. The easiest is to plug a y connector onto the throttle port of the receiver. Plug the ESC into one ind of the y and the throttle/brake servo into the other. Be sure to disable reverse and braking on the controller. The other way will depend on your radio's capability. Some have the functionality for mixing channels. You can plug the throttle/brake servo into the third channel and use the radio programming to mix with the throttle channel and have them work together. You'll have to check you radio's manual to see if it has this feature.

Well currently I am mixing the third channel on my Hitec CRX with the throttle channel, this way the brake servo only moves in one direction. This is probably the best way to set it up. However, on my original setup I just used a y cable out of the throttle channel on the rx. Turn the brakes off on your esc and you can use the endpoint on your radio to adjust max throw on the brake servo (just as you would a nitro) because that setting won't effect the esc. Be sure the endpoint is maxxed out for the throttle, or positve endpoint, you only want to mess with the brake, or negative endpoint.
I hope I explained that well enough, if you have any more questions, please feel free to ask, and welcome to the forums:yipi:

Wow, I type sloooooooow..:lol:, riceman beat me to the punch!

Oh ... i didn't think about mixing channels :angel:

i tried a setup now ... it is working well using a mx16-s :smile:

Thanks :)

Humm
I love brushless revo conversion !

it looks like the motor will hit the rear arm in hard landings? does it or is that just from the view i saw? does it hurt suspension travel?

It doesn't hit, although it is close. I'm running Mikes Motor heatsink clamp and that pushes the motor back a little further then if I weren't to run it but it still fits with no problems.

what is a good motor for an e-revo

e-revo
 

what is a good motor for an e-revo

What are you currently using?
Are you going electric from nitro, or starting from scratch?
Do you want to go BL, or just sticking with brushed electronics?
What voltage will you want to run/ how many cells/ what kind of batteries?
What is the weight of your rig?
Do you have any existing experience of electric/ BL?

Better to read the stickies and existing E-revo threads and do a little research, rather than just jumping onto a thread and saying "what am best motor?".....:rules:

i have a revo 3.3 and i am doing nitro to electric and i have seen do many BL motors out on the market and i do not know what to get and i am goign to use old 6 cell 3800 i have it first then go get a 3 or 4c max amps lipo

4cell lipo from somewhere other than maxamps would be best, depends on your budget though (4s = 4 cells, the 'C' stands for the packs amp rating EG: 5000mah 10c pack is able to put out 50amps in theory). Maxamps are good, good over-rate alot of their stuff.

Budget is your biggest issue to concider then before choosing your motor and esc, since there as several 4s lipo/12cell Nimh esc and suitable motors to choose from....