Wow, you are just @$$ backwards in terms of what other ppl have experienced here AAngel! :005:

I have never had a MM, but I know my Quark was glass smooth and smooth torque start, never cogged.... until, well you know.

Then everyone is saying that the MM coggs alot with some setups, and is not very smooth. But you sure are having some good luck with your Mamba now! So you're sure it was the caps that made a difference then?

Well, as I've mentioned before...I have one particular MM that has really treated me right. I don't know that the others that I have wouldn't, but this one has done all I've asked of it. Just keep in mind that I am running a relatively mild motor (9XL) in a relatively light truck (8ight) with conservative gearing that gets me around the track quickly. With the setup that I have right now, the MM is buttery smooth with the Feigao motor on 4S geared at 14/46 and 16/46.

Due to the Neu motor issues with the MM, I am now back to considering the Lehner 1940/9 (or maybe the 8); but the only place that has them in stock is a place that I refuse the do business with.

I would agree that the Quark is smooth, but it also starts rather abruptly too. With the MM I can start off at a crawl and gradually build up speed. Once the Quark kicks in, it's moving at faster than a crawl.

Tomorrow I'm planning on taking out my Hyper 8 with Neu 1512 2.5D and MM, along with a 4-cap (330uf low-ESR from AAngel) bank attached to the ESC with short 12ga. wire. I also redid the hardwiring of the motor leads, so hopefully that will produce an improvement.

MetalMan, how did you redo the motor leads? Do you mean that you just replaced them? I've been running 12 gauge wire on my MMs, but don't have a motor that would tell me if they made a difference or not.

Be sure to let us know how the 1512 ran. I find myself in a position to be able to buy a Neu motor, but don't want to until I have a dependable controller to run it with. I know that many have run the Quark, but to me, the Quark is yet unproven. I have my eye on a 1512 1.5Y.

I just resoldered the motor wires, since I needed to put some heatshrink over them anyways. I used pliers to compress each set of two wires together while the iron was on them to get the best contact possible.

OK, I just found a deal on a 1512 1.5Y that I couldn't pass up. So begins a Neu chapter. I guess I'm about to find out is the caps and wiring make a difference.

Great! I can't wait to here how it runs then afterwards.

Just wondering, does anyone know how a 1512/2Y performs/handles with 6s LiPo?

I don't think there is a 1512 1Y. Do you mean 1512 2Y? 1400kv motor? If so, I would imagine that it would be bad a$$; and I mean that in a good and bad way. I've found anything more than 4S to be good for nothing but speed runs. It's even too much for bashing. The torque is insane. With my 9XL on 5S, just blipping the throttle too hard puts my truck on its roof.

If you go with the 2Y on 6S lipo, all I can recommend is Gorilla glue for the tires instead of CA, and forget about bead locks. Or actually, maybe bead locks AND Gorilla glue.

I been having great luck with the Mambas too! I ran a 7XL for a while in 1/8th buggy on 4s (14/46 gears), but it runs too hot (not the mamba though). Went to 8XL (motor still running pretty hot) and both are very smooth and mamba is very cool on the 8XL. I can run very smoothly even at low speeds and have NO cogging, even rolling backwards then going forward will cause a bit only sometimes. I have more cogging with the mamba 5700 in my MT2 running on 3s, still only if I try. That rig really pushes the mamba motor to the max at 5 pounds, geared for 50 mph+. Of course I can say nothing about the Quark as I never had one (33a one in miniLST runs real smooth and cool, though).

Yes, I meant 2Y, sorry (Edited)

I would like to upgrade my motor from my 7XL someday (no time soon), and I want to keep about the same power as my 7Xl setup but be running 6s LiPo for low current setup and cool runnings.


I'm just throwing this out there: Does anyone have a burnt out Quark that is far past warranty date and doesn't mind giving it up for tests? This would be for measurements and fitting tests with my custom quark case.

ZPB, if cooler running is your goal, you don't need to go to voltage extremes. I, like you, have envisioned a higher voltage system that would draw fewer amps and run cooler. I thought that I could reach a point with a Feigao motor that would run cool. I've progressed downward from the 7XL, to the 8XL, and now to the 9XL. I tried just going slower and adding voltage. What I have discovered is that the cheapo Feigao motors are going to run hot no matter what, in any setup that delivers any sort of respectable performance.

I've read a few posts of guys talking about their 9XL or 10XL setups running ice cold. After my experimentation and experiences, I think that they are either full of it, or they just aren't pushing their setup.

I've talked with Mike about the subject on the phone and the conversation was a revelation to me. He informed me that just going with a more efficient motor will significantly cut the running temp of the motor and you can still run on 4S.

If you think about it, the Feigao is only about 80% efficient, at best. The Neu motors are about 90% efficient. I'd imagine that most would say that there is only a 10% difference in efficiency and that it couldn't make that much of a difference. Well, there is only a 10% difference in efficiency, but that's not the way to look at it. If you really think about it, the Neu is only wasting half as much energy as heat as the Feigao motor is. This means that the Neu motor will run much cooler. If you want cooler running, then go with a more efficient motor. No need to kill yourself running higher voltage just to run cooler.

I, personally, have found 4S to be the best way to go for racing and gets the job done for bashing. Higher voltage is good for going fast. If fast is what you want, then go for it; but going to 6S with a Feigao isn't going to get you a cool running setup. I don't think so anyway. I haven't seen it.

If adding CAP bank to ESC isnt bettter to add just one cap with higher capacity? like 2200uF? they even have lower ESR than thesmall ones.

AAngel: Yeah, I know that even switching from a Feigao to a Neu or Lehner will make a huge difference. I too, like to consider that (80 to 90%) as being twice as efficient. But I don't really want a Feigao motor like you said, I want a Neu with a very low Kv, and run as high voltage as I can on my Quark (hopefully that is 6s if better/more caps help) to KEEP the same power as a ~7Xl on 4s. I would prob run 6s/5000mAh.

6s doesn't always mean extreme power... 6s on the 1512/2Y is 30,000rpm, and how much torque does it have? Same as an XL Fiegao? It won't be crazy at all, IMO.

Wallot: Using smaller is better than using one large one because the larger you go the worse the ESR is relative to their capacity rating. Typically. 220, 330uF caps are a good size to use.

is there any capacity limit (total in paralel) that i should not go over?

No, no limit at all. You just have to remember that the larger the capacity, the larger the spark will be upon plugging batts into controller.