You guys make me want to buy some mini rcs again, but I have to keep reminding myself why I sold all of them. They may be able to take a beating, but nothing like a savage can handle!

I was looking at those too. The biggest downside is they weigh about 5 pounds... Heavier than a 1/10th t-4, XXX-t etc so it is going to have a hard time keeping up with most things out there. It is also about the size of a crt.5, they absolutely dwarf the other 1/16 mini's out there. On the other hand looks like a really fun platform and if they prove to be durable and start getting a decent amount of hopups I am going to get one.

I also think they look really cool. I swear if I get another stadium truck bodied rc I am going to scream..... Not that they look bad but they all look the same.

I still try to be helpful on that forum ... :angel: .... even though it does get a bit frustrating trying to sift through all the useless info. But I guess that's like any forum... for every good thread, there are 10 useless ones. And since its a dedicated mini only forum, you're bound to get more beginners on that site. Like any online forum, I try to learn what I can, and leave the arguing to the other members.... (unless I get screwed on a trade/deal, but that's another topic all together)... :yes:


On another note...

Linc, I'm surprised you don't have any mini's left. I'd expect you of all people to have at least two or three of them. There's a place and time for all scales of rc, and I still like playing with mini's from time to time. They come in real handy when you're waiting for your lipo's to charge, or to chase the dog around. :smile:

Very true but you can buy a vendetta for about $150, bulletproof it for about another $150. Get a Stupidly powerful motor for $70, good esc $75 Flightpower Lipo 3s 1600 mah $50. Less than $500 you have a fast and tough basher.

I totally admit that I really really want an flm savage but:
Savage ss (after selling the motor) $300, FLM chassis $200, MMM + motor $300, Good lipo $250, misc servos etc $150

For that you can get 2 minis and enough lipos that you and a friend could bash for hours on end without having to recharge.

I do understand what you are saying though when all is said and done; when you put a savage next to a mini it is hard to justify the mini.

Sorry been busy at work, but the one I was talking about was the rtr - once you got above 10-12mph, it would take over and fromn there all I could do was try to correct direction it was heading off on. The inertia at that speed and the woefully elastic strg knucks would let it drift badly. Graphite parts fixed all that and I benefited from all the mods done trying to fix strg slop (epoxy servo to chassis, alum bellcranks with brgs, shimmed strg posts to eliminate vertical play, alum shocks, green springs etc). Once it was fixed, I liked it well enough I bought an SE. It never had the probs my rtr did! Made some improvements ther, you're absolutely right!

MQ or buggy Vendetta stock drive train won't live long with motor kvs > 4500 or so. I've tried Hyp 5000long can and I a GH4700. I swapped them in favor of a GH3500 and the CoolRed 3500. If I want stupid fast - 3s until I get over it, lol!

So I've had a few recommendations for the rc18 and the xray m18, but I noticed both of these have plastic ring/pinion gear in the front and rear diff... can these really stand up to brushless power? these got eaten so easily in the lst1 that even losi released metal ring/pinion gears. (the same losi who refuse to make steel spider gears for the truck, which would make it 100000x better)

I ran through probably 20 packs with my RC18T before I stripped a rear diff. I was running a Mamba 6800 system in it using up to 2S Lipo or 8 NiMh cells. I didn't strip it until I started jumping it and landing it on flat ground more often than normal. The diffs are pretty darn tough if you shim them when you get them.

I just sold the mq, and the NIB mq that I had. I have a tamiya m03 fwd suzuki swift that I like to play with. It is small and alot of fun, plus it holds up alot better than the mini vehicles. I may buy an xray, but we will see.

These can take the bl power. I have a rc18t with buggy wing like new for sale in a thread on here. Has many many upgrades and with take a beating. (all carbon, RPM, Alloy, MIP rear) Really sweet ride.
Take a look. http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12107
Really like these mini for they are tough and fast, they will literally take off in the air at top speeds.

I never found a need for these but if you feel inclined: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKBC2&P=Z

How often is normal? The only reason I have any RCs is for jumping, and although I set up and built landing ramps, there is still the occasional overjump.

It's the landing when the car nosedives mid air and you blip the throttle the level it out that kills the diffs, puts a lot of stress on them, even if its not a flat landing. I'd hate to invest in a new mini to find it not much better.

Has anyone had much experience with the MIP mlst f/r ball diffs? They look plastic in the photo but for $30 I'm assuming its metal. A pity tower doesnt sell them, I can only find them on evilbay, and even then no kind of rebuilt kits (Thrust plates or anything) even... so seems like a no go from the get go.

Yeah theyre not the bits I Was worried about, more the plastic ring and pinion gear...

Sammus, you can get these:
http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_...at_name='#
I don't think they are needed if you shim properly, but it wouldn't hurt to have them.

On another note, I've never had a problem with the plastic diffs in my m18t's. I still have the original diffs in my first m18t which is almost two years old.

i thought i would chime in and offer my poor advice..
i like the xtm rage because of its bullet proof drive train.. but the upgrades will be expensive just to keep the car running pack after pack...

the vendetta is my favorite.. and when the steel diffs come out for it,, it will be unstoppable..

the rc18t i consider it the car that taught me what i know,, what and what not to do..

here is my lil video of my vendetta with a NEU motor inside.. i got about 6 runs out of this set up before the diffs went out

http://s185.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=neupart1.flv

http://s185.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=neupart2.flv

http://s185.photobucket.com/albums/x...rrent=NEU3.flv

IMO the MIP Superdiffs are mandatory with a BL /Lipo setup in a RC18