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I sent it last week. I will check with the post office tomorrow to see where it is
Thanks again! |
tracking says it was received at your postal office and went out for delivery on Tuesday. Have you received it yet?
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Nice packaging, have you send me additional packages? |
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Then last night after a little clean up and a change of the motor mount.. I plugged everything back together and did a test... the motor started cogging violently, then I saw the shrink on the 12020 started to tear away.. I pugged everything out, and found that the temp on the motor and controller was very very high.. I went to the BK site to see if I could find any info that would explain what was happening... and I found this: "Interruption of one motor phase Motor does not rev up, only jerks back and forth. Disconnect battery immediately, motor can be severely damaged!" http://www.bk-electronics.com/bk_eng.html I opened the motor and notice the magnet was making some contact with the the coils... the bearings also felt a little rough.. Just my 2 cents Alien.. |
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Wow, Gentlemen’s, new BK-Electronics controllers come equipped with bigger heatsinks and fancy epoxy...<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p> Short story, as Daniel said, with bad NiMh you can make this combo fail miserably at full throttle. Good batteries or LiPo - no problem.<o:p></o:p> In addition UBEC wasn't soldered, just twisted wires and heatshrink - not good.<o:p></o:p> Heatsink was completely loose inside heatshrink.<o:p></o:p> <o:p></o:p> I do not see any reasons to take controller completely apart, but going to restore programming jumper, replace top capacitors with newer ones (560uF 35V), add TVS and fix power and UBEC wiring. And put heatsink back. I will upload results later, |
I really appreciate all the work you are doing Artur. I'm definitely going to have a talk with the guy I bought it from
Thanks again! |
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I also recommend to shorten motor leads as much as possible, they are excessively long from what I can see. Can you measure how long you need them so I can chop them accordingly?<o:p></o:p> I do prefer male pins on Motor and female on controller, but you can have as it is.<o:p></o:p> If you do not plan to switch motors on the fly I can solder motor directly to controller.<o:p></o:p> Let me know what you think,<o:p></o:p> |
It looks awesome!!!
I won't be switching motors so if you can solder it directly that would be great. Can you send it priority or whatever is the fastest (but not UPS) when you send them back? We have a big race on the June 29th and if at all possible I would love to run this truck in that race. If shipping is more than what I have sent so far I will send some more money...just let me know. Thanks again man |
Did the previous owner stick it in a blender?
Nice repair job Arthur :yes: |
Artur, Great job with evader's ESC.
Hopefully you can help me too. I have a 15020 that is cogging horribly. I have tried everything in thread with no help. It also does something wierd. If I remove the BEC (black jumper) the ESC does not work at all. Have you ever had that problem? |
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I am using a 4 cell pack of AA's.
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