We had to add a transistor to allow the processor to control the fan -- but the temperature at which the fan turns on is controlled directly by software.

It is set at about 150 degrees F, which is about 65C. The hardware is good to about 120C, so the fan comes on WAY before the temperature limits on the controller are hit.

good to know:yes:and pdelcast i can't send you a pm...??why

120C :gasp: What temp does the MMM shutdown? (if it has that option)

It shuts down at around 120C. If it does shut down, it waits until the internal temp drops below 70C before it will rearm.

V3 updates
 

I received my MMM V3 yesterday. I am running a Hyper 7 buggy with a 4S Poly rc 6K and a 20 tooth pinion. I ran it on two charges already and it seem
like it's working out real nice. The Hyper 7 is so stable at high speed and handles pretty good also, doesn't even flip over unless it goes in the grass and slid. I am pretty happy so far, I am also using the internal BEC from MMM.
Do you think the ESC can handle a 25 tooth pinion for more topend. I'm running a Neu 1515 1.5 D and it is a monster for it's size. Thanks for trying to please your customers Castle and any comment on the pinion gear will be nice. I don't wanna burnup my MMM, so any comment will be appreciated. Thanks again Castle Creation for doing the right thing.

Gearing depends on whether your motor and batts can cope with the current draw- the esc will be fine as it will thermal before any damage is done (famous last words). What are your current motor, esc and lipo temps after a good run? 20 to 25 seems like a rather large gearing increase though, might want to rethink that and go to something more like 22tooth pinion, or a few less teeth on the spur instead (same effect).

I actually was running a 25 tooth pinion when my MMM just stopped working.
But it was at least 7 minute of speed runs. I know that wasn't the cause of failure. I hooked up a fan on top of Neu 1515 1.5d and my motor does not get past 120 degrees at all. I am running a Poly RC 6k 25C lipo, this batts are awesome, lots of power and very good in retaining the voltage after a couple of months of not being use. To think about I paid 150.00 for a barely use pack from another forum.

25tooth:surprised:its huge,,,and what is your mmm version???

edit i saw the other post...is a v3

and the 1,5d draw a lot of amp:yes:if the esc come wot fast ...its normal the esc work hard to give the all the current that the motor want...

i got my v3 on friday. had the same issues with the fan wires, shrink wrapped them and trimmed out the tab on the lower case that was interfering with the happiness of the little wires:angel: also moved the foam pad from under the fan plug to the center of the pcb. ran it friday night for about ten minutes, and again saturday for another ten minutes. running on 6s with a 1512 3d 15/46 timing zero punch control off brakes at 70%. opted to use the electric brakes this time with the v3. saves about 4 ounces. although if you use a 1515 the extra weight might be worth it ther worked extremely well with a couple of my v2's. the v3 performed very well. slow speeds were smooth and throttle control was very precise. tiny bit of cogging on startup when the car sits for a minute but goes away immediately. esc was never even warm to the touch, motor was about 90 and batts were cold. driving was high speed passes with street tires on a superb asphalt parking lot. with the current gearing it should see ~38, might try going to a 14 and see what happens. the only track i know of around here is smaller and 38 was too fast last time i was there. all in all castle has done a superb job refining this controller. i am glad to see a working unit (5th time is a charm:lol:) it was a long 10 months putting this project together but well worth it. i will post a video as soon as i can.

Slim, how did you weld your ESC and motor wires togheter?
If i take a close look on the shrink wrap, it is like if you have just touch the tips of the esc wire to the tips of the motor wire and melt the solder togheter:oh:
Me when i weld this wire togheter, i put lot of solder on the motor wire and lot of solder too on the esc wire and i place them one ON the other, squiz it with a pair of long nose pliers and melt the solder togheter.

Is your joint is solid????

both ends tinned, a little extra in the middle, solid as can be. i will admit it looks weird but its always worked great for me. not really much stress on the joint itself and good solder joints dont just "break". the wires arent so much dependent on "touch" to conduct, that is what the solder is for, tinning the wire is like a conductive "cap" for them. when they are soldered together the solder solidifies and joins the two both physically and conductivly (new word)

nice to read another mmmv3 going strong:yes:and like a said i other post no choice to open the case for remove the fan wire for prevent the pinch...

Had a short run with no smoke or fire but broke the bell crank......

well if the thing continue to going good like that for the mmmv3 a lot of parts will be broken soon:lol::whip: