So were these and were very smooth. After two races they were very gritty and after that they started failing.

Bernie I know what you ment I just hear allot of people say that if xxx motor is geared to low it will run hot. Maybe its a myth ... Also about timing , Medusa says run there motors at 8-15 for best effiency. Should we still run those on 0?

So it seems the general concensus is that 4s is gonna be the best option for everyday driving.Geared for around 45 you should be able to run this thing all day.So what would be the sweet spot for temps?I know that as they warm up there efficiency seems to increase,till you hit the point that temps start to hurt performance,what point is that? My hypothesis is around 140.

my 1512 2d on 4s in a buggy gets easily up to 150, most of the time its a 150-165 after 6 minutes of racing... any suggestions? gear up or down? im geared pretty low and its a large track, but im barely at full throttle ant the end of the straight... what concerns me, is, its a track which requires constant thottle, around 1/4. this is what is heating it up, the rest is tiny blips before and during jumps and down the straight. kinda the wrong place but o well. its written now!

ambient was anything from 30C to 35 in the shade... in the sun it was 50+C!!!

Jerry,

I use lowest timing on everything. It is OK to run a Y wind at standard timing but going above that gets things pretty toasty. Mamba motor timing is dynamic, it changes continually based on the speed and somewhat the load on the motor. This is because a sensorless system is continually monitoring the motor itself, not sensors. Changing timing advance with a Mamba system changes the range withing which the timing changes not a set point. Most of the range in each setting overlaps with the other settings. This is why changing timing had more affect on motor efficiency (temp) than power out.

I, personally just set timing to lowest and forget about it. If I want to go faster I add another cell. Usually, I don't want to go faster.

Bernie

The CC neu has huge bearings, very smooth and metal sheilded, i dont think they need replacing

With these motors performance does no fall off with heat. Performance doesn't change until you get above 200 f. Then the magnets start demagnetizing which ultimately will be fatal for the motor and ESC. Heat stabilizes after 5 to 10 minutes of hard running. We pick 165 f as safe after a hard 5 minute run because temps have stabilized by then and at 165 you are not going to slip over 200. Don't go all anal on your temp sensor, mine has a plus to minus error range of over 5 degrees but it is good enough. As long as after 5 to 10 minutes of hard running you motor is less or equal 165f go drive and have fun, no worries.

Bernie

If the castle motors are close to the Neu's, the difference will be unbelieveable, think :surprised::gasp:

I to had heard there was a sweet spot, in which a brushless motor would run. My mambamax 4600 for example, with 20/87, the temps were 190*, but with 24/87 it runs at 160 most of the time. I think it has something to do with spinning on dirt and hitting max RPM for voltage. I think it wants to go faster, but the voltage kind of brakes it a bit, kind of like a voltage choke for a slot car. I hope you understand what i'm saying.

From the good news in jay ski V3 thread and this one, I hope to soon have a Brushless E-Revo, to kick it with my G2R

A good brushless motor has a very broad sweet spot -- and the Neu designed motors have a REALLY broad sweet spot. It is so broad, in fact, that the performance doesn't drop off at all when you push it TOO hard. So you have to be careful with temperatures....

Just make sure you don't exceed about 220F or so in normal usage.

220, Wow it will handle the heat. So is there any chance we might see a smaller version of this motor,then the 1512,say 1509 range?

maybe replace cm36 with castle 1509 or 06 :yes:

I have a tekno neu 1515 1y (2200kv) in my truggy, and I think 4s is good for normal tracks or average bashing, while 6s is mostly only for speed run style bashing. I haven't used mine on 5s, but a couple of people that I drive with at a big bashing track do (mxracer form here is one of them), and I think 5s works very well on that motor. It has a lot more power than 4s, but without having over the top high speed like 6s or having to worry about temps (not just motor temps). They're using there's on 5s with mamba max's, because that track is too hard (BIG jumps) on mamba monster's and they killed 4 or 5 of them.

I'd like to see a smaller motor for 1/10, about the size of the standard 540 or 480 motor. The 15 series is just too strong for racing, even in a 06 length. besides, i want a heat sink and wide gearing selection.

On this note, Neu is developing a 14 series motor that should be available soon

So lets say I really want to have fun here

Im going to get a truggy, either a MBX5T, X2, or a RC8T, I want to get the castle combo, but I want the motor thats in the E revo BL, I think the black motor looks better. How will I go about this? Is castle going to sell the combo both ways, or is there going to be the green for castle, and if I want the black version it comes from traxxas? Or how is it going to work?

I want to race the trugg, so 4, or 5s for the track, But I have to buy a 6s and just have some stupid overpowered fun. On 6s where do you gear the car? With that high RPM, it will need a load so it wont be over revving (gearing down from normal) right? So Do you use the same gearing, or?

Thanks!

The few times I used mine on 6s (http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=1a2zmUbG8Ic) I just used my normal 4s racing gearing (~35mph), so it ends up being about 50% more top speed, which was enough for me. After 10 minutes it did get about 30 degrees hotter than usual 4s running, but that's still only 150f.