Okay, round 3. Tried it with different braking, different acceleration, etc. It can crawl around at less than 1 mph if I wanted to (so good slow speed control) and I find the reverse easier to use than Schulze. I still say it's an awesome controller except for the braking that occurs when going from full throttle to part throttle. Going from full throttle to neutral, it coasts, but from full throttle to part throttle, it brakes until it reaches that part throttle speed. So, for racing, I don't think it's ideal.

ok guys, I just picked up my mgm 80amp and a feigao 6s for my t4. The problem is that the wire from the esc are about 1" shorter than what i really need. I know i could just solder a piece in between the motor and controller, but that is kinda ghetto to me. Can i safely unsolder the esc wires and solder new ones on there? if not i guess i will soder a wire in between, but the other option would look much cleaner.
Thanks

It could certainly be done (replace controller wires), but I would rather you cut the current wires back and solder another wire to them (so you wouldn't unsolder the controller wires from the controller). This would ensure that you don't void any warranty on the controller and would be less"ghetto" than a small add on wire.

thanks for the quick reply Mike. I guess just looking at the size of the wire on the feigao motor( looks like maybe 8 ga or something) and then what appears to be something like a 14ga wire on the controller that there would be some losses there. Now granted, I am expecting to see a large power gain over the novak, but every little performance upgrade i can do, i enjoy doing.
thanks

If you are cinfident that you can do it without accidentally unsoldering something else, it certainly is a possible mod. i don't think you will draw enough current to tax the smaller wires on the controller, though.

alright, you are the expert selling these things.....i am assuming you would recommend not doing ti. Have you mounted any where you had to add wire to make it reach, have you considered chaning the wires? i ask your opinion cuz i dont want to ruin a new controller before i even run it.

I usually find a way to mount it within the wires size that is available. I have never had to add wire(in fact, I usually take wire away). You way be able to solder the controller wires to the motor at a right angle (90 degrees) and end up needing less wire than you think. Then, cover the connections with liquid electrical tape (can't heat shrink 90 degree corners).

just wondering how warm the esc gets typically? is it worth it to fab up a heat sink for it or to customize the body to duct air over it?
thanks

Well, cooler is always better in my book. It wouldn't hurt to take steps to keep things as cool as possible.

well the esc got pretty warm considering i was running it outside in 60 degree weather, at night with no body. i have a super small heatsink that will fit on it, do you guys think it would be alright to use a bit of ca glue to attach it to the top and sides? thanks

also, that 6s and the mgm are packing some killer power cuz its managing to slip the diff on my custom transmission.

I ran my MGM controller through 8000 mah of 11.1 volt power in my stampede with maxx tires yesterday without a fan or a thermal. I didn't even check the temp of the controller, but it didn't thermal, so I was happy. I wouldn'y use CA glue myself. they make a substance called heat paste, or heat compuond (or some similar name) that is supposed to heat transfer the heat more efficiently. If anything, I would use this and maybe hold the heatsink on with some shrink wrap(trim heat shrink around outside so the shrink holds it on, but it still gets are over the heatsink). Just a suggestion.

ok, i was thinking bout using some paste to begin with since i picked some up a few days ago.i guess i will figure out some way to mount it.

I wouldn't use glue. I'd use the same thermal grease used for CPU heatsinks, you know that'll transfer the heat since without it your processor would be toasted in a few minutes. Newegg has several. Actually I'm kinda surprised it's not used more than it is considering you want as much surface contact between the heatsink and the part needing to be cooled.
Thermal Grease

just went outside and did a run, the truck ran great for a few minutes, then i started noticing as the battery dropped off, the truck wanted to throw itsself into reverse and drive around. the bats are side x side gp3300's, but they have always had power problems. i am going to go charge me up a new set of my racing bats and see what happens, just wondering if anyone else has had the same problem.
thanks

oh yeah, its just setup in the default "turn it on and go" mode

I haven't noticed this on mine. I don't run in default mode, but that shouldn't matter. It seems like your throttle trim is creeping or something. Strange.