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tested with 5s and it was amazing.......
photos..... pic 1 pic 2 about 15min testing and I lost control and rear arm was broken lol...... 5s with 48x19 gearing on a short track makes the 2200kv motor overgear a lot........with proper handling of the car, at the middle of straight part of the track you can hear the engine not revving up anymore......I will move to 47x20 ou even 46x20........ IMO, if you have the chance to get one of these, do it..... next upgrade: lipo 6s 40C....... basic setup for this track i run: rear toe in 2 front toe out 1.5 camber f:4 r:3 blue springs 40W shock oil shore 38 front 35 rear this is the basic right..... |
here are some pics of mine
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rhino 40C lipo arrived,
6s 3700mah 40C/50C i think its a good weight for the power..... if weather permits I will test this sunday..... the punch it a lot bigger than turnigy (6s 5000mah 30C) and weight way less too, in hobbycity both packs would be 700+/-grams, but the turnigy is at least 100gr more than rhinos..... |
The car looks great "Street hot". I think you'll find the extra voltage going to 6s will give you the extra rpm your looking for.... Just to compare I've been running 6s 44 spur/20 pinion.
Might have to blow the dust off mine and do some more developing. keep us updated :intello: |
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by the way.....I have tested with 6s, gearing 48x16, amazing....too fast, exit corners were incredible......i need a video for this setup...... rhino batteries are good, incredible punch, even with 3700mah i got the same time than 5000mah turnigy...... I am speechless......I couldnt run with any nitro car on the track without danger to 200mm gp cars......more than once i have to pass them where i could fit my car.....i almost dont use brakes.....i think its normal for this kind of car...... And if someone have a hint on THIS: "The car makes clicks, like plastic clicks on acceleration and braking, but A LOT of clicking on throttle on curbs, more tight curb, worst the clicking....." 1) the car seems to run normal 2) all belts are in place and look good 3) rear belt is orange, from another maker 4) rear spur has some dings but not worned 5) center belt is not the problem I have disassembled the entire car looking for problems.....none i am aware of....last laps the clicking was so strong i thought something broken..... any help would be great...... |
Possibly an issue with the front drive shafts floating in and out of the drive cups or binding when the wheels are turned?
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in front is a cvd, i will check rear shafts and front cvd again.......
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sERPENT 960 -- 134 KM/H
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(1) Remove side belt...slow drive the car on the road, actually, GUN IT (accelerate) and listen (for a short distance, don't launch your car cause now without the side belt, you are 2WD, and that is = DANGEROUS). If you can hear the skipping sound again..it is BOTH your rear belt and pulley, replace all of them (all 3 parts)...I know 1 thing...you may not be able to see belt is wore or the pulley is wore...all it need is a 0.2mm of wear and your belt will skip...remember, you are running some nasty Brushless power stuff...this type of wear is totally expected. (2) Mount your side belt on and try the step 1 again...if you don't hear the skipping sound from step 1 but now you do (with the side belt on)..then it must be the side belts and the side pulleys (happened to me 1 time before). Replace all 3 of those parts and try again...hopefully the skipping will disappear. (3)...if skipping still occur...MUST BE THE FRONT BELT AND PULLEYS...replac them. Hope that will help...and hope your next video is from the driver stand...the last video is good, but hard to see the run of your car compare to the nitro powered 1/8th car...like hard to imaginate. |
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Can you tell me where I can find that 6s 3700mah 40C/50C on HobbyKing website..? I can find alot of 3700mah and alot of 40C but not BOTH...please advise, thanks. |
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