RC-Monster Forums - Need help with my G3-build

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- GorillaMaxx (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=16)

- - Need help with my G3-build (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19600)

ah ok, I guess it's 30k and not 300k in the middle then...
and 7k in the front and 3k in the rear for the beginning.
thank's for the, very usefull, link by the way!

however, question No. 1 remains...

Q1 = A: I think the worst you'll have to do is just a little shimming, since the stock steering mech sits on the stock grey plastic front skid, and that has built in posts/round lumpy things for the posts to locate into/onto. If you go with an aftermarket skid set, then you may need to shim the posts or look for aftermarket ones- zillions on ebay so you wont have issues finding them.

Sorry, I still don't understand. Where would I have to place the shims? And why would I need any of them? I mounted the 3905-steering in the G3-chassis without any problems. No wheels and no servo attched to it yet, but it moves/turns smothly. Sorry, I just don't get what the problem is.

edit: the packet seams to have cleared the bloodsuckers office at 6.40pm local time. with any luck the packet is ariving on monday. seems like I have to hurry getting the diff-oils in time after all...

You said you werent sure of the 3905 steering assembly fitting the G3 chassis without modification, right? I said you may need to shim the posts a little (at the top or bottom) to remove any slack, since the 3905 front skid has mouldings on it to remove any slack, where as the G3 skids are just plain metal with no such mouldings (have a look at the exploded views on the traxxas website).

If you managed to fit the steering to your chassis without any problems, then you needn't have worried or asked about it in the first place- ask for help as issues arrize normally, unless you are certain you are going to run into problems, in which case someone is likely to have a solution (emaxx has been around for so long any and all eventualities are pretty much covered) :smile:

What? No! I only said that I read about necessary modifications, but didn't know what there would have to be done and haven't encountered any problems while assembling (except that I stripped another one of those bulls**t armorplated gorilla hex screws).
That's why I asked what there would have to be done, as I don't know how important these modifications are. And there is a difference if parts run smoothly when you move them with your fingers, or if they work while put under full stress.

Anyways, if there are points not quite clear to me, I tend to ask before I get out for the first run an everything breaks :wink:

Meh, you worry too much. :lol:

Well, it was your Emaxx FAQ which gave me that idea :whip:

:wink:

Quote:

9. Steering mechanism

3906
The stock setup is fine essentially, the only real weak point being the weak steering servo, and the weak servo saver. When looking at a new servo, try to find something with over 200oz/in of torque, be it digital or analogue. Metal gears will be more robust than nylon or Karbonite. With the servo saver, you can either take the simpler route and use a Kimbrough large truck model or similar, or opt for a bellcrank setup that has the saver built in, such as the Proline or UE models. There are numerous metal aftermarket models available, and these can add much needed strength and precision with the use of bearings instead of bushings. Another trick is to use dual steering servos (turn the shifting servo into a second steering servo), though this requires abit of modification and imagination, depending on the chassis.

3905
In theory this setup should be as good as the Proline or UE version, but sadly it isn’t. The trouble is that the cam-loc design of the built in saver is far too tight, and has very little or no ‘give’ in a crash, thus the plastic gears in the servos get destroyed rather easily. A little dremeling work, or careful shimming of the cam-loc mechanism will release the pressure. Metal geared servos would also be worth looking into; if you use two, then 100oz/in of torque each will be required. To remove the small amount of slop that is present in the stock setup you can do a rather clever modification that used two cam-loc mechanisms and a little dremeling again (CLICK HERE). Any steering setup from the old Emaxx should work on the new truck, and viceversa- a little effort may be required.

All lies, dont believe him! :lol:

I do mention that theres some slop in the stock 3905 setup (when its used in the 3905 truck), but I make no mention of modification needed to fit it to the GorillaMaxx chassis. Its always possible you may need to tweak the linkages depending on the exact posistion of the servos, or the length of the horns, but, I reckon you've been sniffing too many marker pens again... ....or I have... :wink:

I do need to update the info in there though, traxxas have improved the design a little, and no I know that the steering fits the gorillamaxx without issue, I can state that in their too :yipi:

Quote:

Originally Posted by suicideneil (Post 295732)

...I can state that in their too :yipi:

Not so sure about the "I can" part...
If I recall correctly there is this little issue of you being banned from you favourite of all rc-forums? :angel:

I :lol: in the face of a ban... I can however state it in my FAQ though on my website, seeing as the nice moderator folks over at numpty-central deleted my FAQs there (cant think why :whistle: ).

:yipi:
got my parts today!
Mike, the cd/motor mount locks insanely amazing! :surprised:
great pice of work that one, really!

Pictures! Now! :yes: :lol:

Y.A.G. (yet another g-maxx)

That'll do nicely, cheers! :yes:

So, Mike read my mind and stole one of my CD mounting ideas I see. If you ran a smaller spur (assuming you could), and maybe cut a slot in the chassis tray, you could perhaps lower the whole CD unit a little bit more. I like it alot though, very clean and incredibly simple- I wouldnt mind notching the insides of the X-braces to run a larger spur either, its such a clean and symterical layout it makes me all warm and fuzzy inside just looking at it.

Looking forward to more pics, especially some side profile ones when you get the motor installed, gotta see just how low that motor can go, and how much clearance their is between spur and chassis plate/rails...

PS, how much did the CD unit cost just out of interest?

Your Max looks purty kewl ! The Lightning diffs is a fantastic idea.
Ofna makes a great cnc'd shock stand-off,very cheap and super sturdy. 5$ for 4 in a pack.