I think it's better to have holes in a metal case, because if you don't, the fire and pressure will build up, and when you open the case after the fire has started, you better run away, fast, because it will just come bursting out.

Vent holes is best.

Rear bulkheads
 

The front bulkheads are secured to the chassis with six screws. 4 M4 button head screws and two M3 that go through the front shock tower and chassis and screw into the front bulkheads. The rear ERBE bulkheads only have 4 screws to secure them to the chassis, two M4 button head screws in the back and two M3 screws that go through the rear shock tower. I wanted to have two more M4 screws to hold the rear bulkheads to the chassis like the front ones.

I drilled those right through with a 3.3 mm drill bit and then made M4X.7 mm threads in the holes.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._bulkhead1.jpg

I drilled matching hole in the chassis with a 4 mm drill bit.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._bulkhead2.jpg

Now I have two more M4 screws that secure the rear bulkheads to the chassis. Since my rear shocks are a bit higher because of the shims I put underneath the rocker posts and rear shock tower, the shocks do not rub on the screw heads.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._bulkhead3.jpg

I will also be trying out a different way of using the M3 screws that go through the rear shock tower and shock caps. I used longer screws that stick out the bottom and I put a lock nut to tighten everything up really tight and secure. A couple hole in the center skid plate to be able to take the screws out if I have to without removing the center skid plate. If you are worried that dirt might get in there because of the two holes, I say, dirt gets in there anyway even with no holes.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._bulkhead4.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._bulkhead5.jpg

MC, it's nice to see the original design of the CD , working under real life track conditions, with a few tweaks by yourself..included... Hopefully this weekend I'll be testing my original diff at a track, and see how it actually performs for me as well. Your truck looks great, I think I may give the aluminum slipper disc a try, if i ever get a chance to make one....maybe this weekend I'll get a chance....nice work man...

Belleville springs
 

Wow! My build is a sticky. I'm honored. :mdr:

sjcrss,
I'm sure you will love how your CD performs. I know I couldn't go back to the Traxxas CD after racing with my 8th scale CD.

Speaking of the slipper, I bought belleville springs on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/3-16-x-3-8-Belle...3%3A1|294%3A30

And I will try out 6 of them like this ((())) tomorrow.

Congrats on the sticky! ;)
I've been following this topic since it was started back on the Traxxas forum, good to see you here...

Say, I'm wondering why you chose to use the Summit axles vs. the CVD axles. Or any other type for that matter.
Did you want the axles to be the weak link because they are cheaper?

And why didn't you choose the RPM true track arms, alot of people that race claim they are the best.

Thanks

I chose to try the Summit shafts, I got a few complete sets on ebay for a good price, really good compared to CVDs. Up to now, they have been really good. They are just starting to show signs of wear after three months of daily bashing and racing. The weak point I would say is the slipper, I did so much testing on the slipper because I thought that if this ERBE has a very strong and effective slipper that can take all the hard hits to the drive train, there won't be any breakage. Up to now, it's been working.

I never thought of trying the RPM true tracks, I just don't like the idea of a set toe in that can't be changed, and unlike you, I have read mixed reviews of the true tracks. Mostly about the pillow ball popping out, which doesn't surprise me from my past experience with RPM carriers.

Ventilation hole would only help the fire:intello: And fire uses oxygen, so where would the "pressure" build up if it uses all its oxygen? I think the more airtight the case the better.

oh yea, very nice buld, MC, very nice...:mdr:

Touche.

Well, I would still rather have one with holes.

Over time, even with Oxygen, it'll die out.

Thanks Urgeoner,

What an awful day of racing I had today. When I bought plugs for my lipos and ESC, I wanted to try the EC3 type plugs. Well after some use, they start to be a little loose and they disconnect by themselves. I was DNF on all of my quals. The third qual was not because of a connector coming loose but by an ESC wire de soldered at the plug. I just packed my stuff and came home. I was very disappointed. I just ordered a whole bunch on genuine Deans Ultra Plugs (genuine meaning not the Hobby City knock offs) and I will have some work cut out for me as I am going to get rid of all these EC3 plugs I have and replace them with the Deans.

On a positive note, the Belleville springs for the slipper worked awsome.

mistercrash: You want to try the EC5s, and not the EC3's.

The EC3's are smaller than the EC5's, thus why they couldn't handle the amount of amps, and that.

I've read nothing bad about the Hobbycity deans,but you can't go wrong with the real stuff I guess. :yes:
Why did you opt for the Deans vs. TRX connectors? :)

Hey MC, I ran the erevo an my Cd today for the first time, and I have my truck pretty well setup for the track I will be practicing at, you were right the Cd made a world of difference, but i have more plans for it as well, but will have to this fall, for now im gonna enjoy the diff right now.

I ran Deans connectors way back when I was racing on road, and they always were very good and they always stayed connected even after months, if not years of use. Of course that was when 1500 mah matched nicads were the hot ticket. I was never dealing with the amount of current that is used with lipos and the MMM. But Deans Ultra Plugs have proven for a while now that they can deal with the tremendous amount of current of today's brushless systems. When I left the on road scene when the 3800 mah nimh were becoming the hot ticket, I was still running the same Deans that were used for my first batteries. Deans are tough and stay connected and are reusable. So I decided to go with what has proven to be extremely reliable to me from past experience.

sjcrss,
I knew you would love it, who wouldn't. A good, strong , smooth and reliable CD in the Revo makes a world of difference. And you won't have to rebuild it after every race day :mdr:
I can't wait to see what you have in store next. Keep us updated.

IIRC, the EC5's are reusable as well.