Not really -- what was happening is that the inductance of the switch harness was boosting braking voltages so high that there was 100V spikes into the BEC circuitry...

I suppose it doesn't matter (and sorry to keep bringing this up), but I'm still trying to get my head around this. So, are you saying the wires between the switch and circuits (presumably high impedance) was picking up the EMF generated by the motor wires during braking?

MMMs = possesed. :P

Okeydokey, cheers for that info Patrick.

Cool $100- for a mmm...sweet!

Seems like an issue an optocoupler could have solved, eh?

even though these are refurbs, will they still come in the pretty box with the extra wire leads, castle link, and usb cord?

did they normally came with castle link included?


and thanks guys, you just costed me 300$ :-P

I would be happy with no switch. Never use them anyways, I just leave the esc on and plug in the battery when I want to run.

Or a switch built into the esc like the traxxas :surprised: esc's.

question.. if I have system with switch, and I will just turn it on and seal in silicone or something. So I will switch it of just by unplugging batteries - is that somehow dangerous, or is it ok? since switch is just pain in the a$$ ..

(got tekin)

If you want to eliminate the switch the best way is to cut the leads about an inch from the case, strip the ends, twist them together, Spode them and cover with shrink wrap. This doesn't void the warranty since your not soldeing on the board. if you ever feel the need to put a switch back on there should still be enough wire there to solder to

so switching esc on/off by unplugging batteries is perfectly ok?

Perfectly ok...

Switches like the one found on the traxxas velineon are a bad idea. I have had some issues with them not working. Since they are used to program the esc it makes it that much harder. I think the gaskets for the watertight connection might have something to do with it, but they were constantly sticking in the on position as a result. I had to do a lot of wiggling to program them and turn them on and off.

This is a great deal.

If it saves a couple bucks then removing the switches isnt a bad idea. It might help with returns as a bad switch might make someone send in a perfectly good MMM for warrantly work that would otherwise not have happened.

"a bad switch might make someone send in a perfectly good MMM for warrantly work that would otherwise not have happened."

Ulterior motive? lol

Seems the micro switches die alot because they don't carry enough current to keep the contacts 'clean' -- I know this applies more to AC, but as an example I put LEDs in my bike's taillight years ago. They were the socket-type drop ins, and I had real problems with them flickering or not working at all, until I hardwired them. Figured out that there just was not enough flow there and the slightest corrosion was causing a broken circuit.

Now even under ideal conditions the switches seem iffy, add some salt, sand etc to the equation and.......

There's not much current flowing through these switches - they are probably just grounding a pull-up resistor or something just to signify 0 or 1 to a logic input. However, if the circuit has a high input impedance (which this does), any resistance in the switch may not trip the circuit like it is supposed to. Corrosion, dust, etc all increase contact resistance, so instead of a solid 0 or 1, the circuit sees something in between.

If a switch is desired, go to RadioShack and get one of their closed frame toggle switches. I personally like the mini toggles rated for 5A. No, 5A is way overkill, but a higher current switch will have a much more solid "snap" actuation, which is helpful to prevent hard jolts from triggering it accidentally. Also, I cut down the toggle part a bit so there is less weight for inertia to act upon.