Thanks - Diffs are shimmed and have Titanium Nitride gears installed:


http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._4406Small.jpg


We'll have to see if they hold up!

I wish more companies made Ti-Ni coated gears and other parts. :(

It certainly won't be those gears that fail. I have them in my muggy; the only part that seems to go is the bearings on the rear diff pinion. When that happens, the gears can slide by each other. If that happens with the stock gears, the teeth will chip. I had it happen with the TiNi gears and they were fine. I also learned the importance of quality bearings in the diffs.

That's good to hear. I think I may have read about these TiN gears in your Muggy thread - thanks for the info.

I am also using Losi HD plastic diff cups inside the blue Al cases. I'm hoping that setup will be strong enough for this truck.

Is the ratio of the Sportwerks gears the same as the Muggy or the LST? I need to rebuild the diffs on my 1717 powered beast already.

-JB

sportworks is the same as the muggy

losi sells the tiNi gears for the lst badged under their name

The Sportwerks Mayhem ST (truggy) gears are the same as the Muggy (11/45) - I know these work for certain and the TiN gears are often available on ebay.

I believe the Sportwerks Mayhem (buggy) gears are the same as the LST (13/43) - but I've never used these.

That is correct.

I knew that, I am trying to figure out what my gearing options are. I want to get rid of the LST trans and go with a center diff. Now I just have to decide if I want to do a full conversion to a Muggy chassis or make a hybrid LST/Muggy type set-up.

-JB

I have a Muggy (going out to drive in a few minutes), and a LST2 with a center diff in the works. I figured the Muggy diffs in the LST2 would give me better gearing choices, and I have a bunch of the TiNi Muggy (Mayhem ST) gears in the parts box.

I know some people don't understand the reason or purpose of ceramic bearings, and would just rather buy new Avid bearings every month or so, but if you need a quality bearing, and don't want to have to replace it...ever, grab an Acer ceramic bearing, or even a Boca ceramic bearin...hell, even the Avid ceramic bearings may be good, but I have never tried them, just Acer & Boca.

Front Driveshaft:

I made a long driveshaft for the front out of a Muggy center rear driveshaft that I cut in half (4mm diameter) and a piece of this:

8mm aluminum tube (2mm wall thickness)

I drilled and tapped three set screw holes in each end of the Al tube, ground flats on the Muggy half drive-shafts, and had to hammer them into the Al tube. Then I used red Loctite and 4mm set screws.

Length is about 10":

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._4428Small.jpg

Red Loctite and assembly:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._4449Small.jpg

Installed in truck:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._4452Small.jpg

This is the part that I probably have the least confidence in on the entire build. I hope it holds up :wink:

Green loctite "sleeve locking" may also help unless you are just worried about twisting the alu. tube.

I'll keep that in mind if I need to make another one. I don't think the Al tube will twist - the walls are thick - but I'm not sure. I'm more concerned with the muggy drive shafts twisting out - so "sleeve locking" might be want I want. Thanks.

muggy
 

You should weld the ends with a stainless steel hollow tubing. I had one with a brazed weld and it broke off. I had one tig welded and I never had problem with it. You can also mig weld it if you want. I don't think the aluminum tubing will hold up, i think it will twist or your setscrew won't hold up under big tires and lots of power. I could be wrong though. Goodluck.