My camera is not good enough to show the gap between the heatsink and fets.

The MMM will be used in the GTP. Power, speed and brakes will be compared against the RX8.

I had an MGM before. Awesome power untill one day it just smoked.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/DSCF0238.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/DSCF0235.jpg

I know ideally the heatsink should make direct contact with the fets, and the glue is just there to hold it in place ( gap filler ), but I wonder if you could use some thermal glue and squeeze it into the gaps so that the remaining fets and heatsink are linked to some degree?

I have some 3M Thermally Conductive adhesive somewhere that I could try to use.

Any resuslts of the 3M compound?
How did you remove the heatsink?

This is put on the backburner. Family addition keeps me too busy.
But to remove the heatsink, you can use a heatgun and a razor.

Thanks!
I don't like the stock heatsink mounting.
Ps I've also this nice V5 board:-)

is it a short on the reciver wiring on the left one? ether way its kind of nasty soldering job

Also look at the negative wire connection it's not the same soldering as the positive one.

None of it is soldered by hand. The solder is a sticky paste and when heated in an oven it flows, there will be some variations in the way it flows depending on the wires

yeah i have seen that on discovery, but shouldent it be none ore little variation in such case?

also im sure all the small components in the board is done in such way, but it may be the wires is done some kind of manually, ether way you can clearly see the orange and red have contact. also the black and brown

The battery leads, receiver lead and switch wires are soldered onto the board by hand. This can lead to some variations of the solder connection.

Thomas Porfert
Tech Support
Castle Creations.

IIRC the best way to get the heatsink off is to put the esc in the freezer overnight and then a small amount of pressure between the sink and a fet should pop it off. Clean off the glue, and use thermal paste. Not sure of the brand but generally the paste has a better ability to transfer heat than the adhesive. So use anhesive on the 4 corners and paste on the rest. Also a good idea to make sure the base of the heatsink is perfectly flat, so use a good straight file or a piece of sandpaper on some glass. Use the min of paste/glue.

Thanks for also a good tip for removing the heatsink.
Mine new esc soldering job could a little better.

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...r/IMG_4734.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...r/IMG_4735.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...r/IMG_4736.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...r/IMG_4737.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...r/IMG_4738.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...r/IMG_4739.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...r/IMG_4740.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...r/IMG_4741.jpg

Thanks for the tip. I am sending in my out of warranty smoked MMM tomorrow for replacement and added a postit note on the esc itself to "please replace with a nib Version5 unit". Do you think that will do the trick or should I still call even though I have already filled out the information online to send it in before I saw this thread?

I think anything going out by now would be a V5 unit. We made the change a long time ago. :)