For an alloy idler for the T2 tranny purchase a Robinson Racing RC10 GT one. They use the same idler for the RC10 (stealth), T2, T3, B2, B3, GT. Dabid is right though you don't need one unless you run a *lot* of power through it like I did.

The T3 weakness thats been pointed out is its biggest flaw, head on impacts will often crack the upper brace. The easy solution is to keep an eye out on ebay for an alloy one, Trinity & Racers Edge used to make them. My solution on my B3 is a lexan plate, with the steering supported by RC10 GT posts. This car has taken some serious punishment but the top plate (and chassis mounts for that matter) are still good. The beauty of it is, if the chassis mounts go, you can just use a bit of alloy as a standoff to run the screw through to the main part of the chassis. A friend of mine has very easy CNC access so I may get him to make a couple of my braces (or if I can be bothered to CAD the stock plate, I could get them made as well, but I prefer my modified design, it free's up the steering a load as well).

Btw, I wouldn't buy that guys T3, I picked one up that was in *really* good condition, factory team spec with all the extra's, and a pro-painted shell, for $60 last November off ebay. I'm sure you can find as good a deal these days.

if your going for a basher i would certainly stay away from a t3. i would just get the rustler. if will be nice and all you need is a few upgrades to make it bulletproof.

I added everything up for the price on a rustler,and i thinkit will be cheaperstill to buy a T2. I would need a tranny sterring,bearings,and driveshafts for a rustler

yeah you should get the rustler. I have a nitro rustler and haven't had one problem and yes I bash and race and roll all that fun stuff. by the time the t2 breaks and you fix it. it will cost the same because the rustler is more durable

I'm very very biased against the Rustler, but thats based primarily on when I had a Stampede (Same car, different chassis). I disliked a lot of things about its design, espically regarding the transmission and related bits. I mean, plastic motor plate moulded into the gearbox? Bleh. And if you crack a rear arm mount, why yes you have to rebuild the entire transmission with a new case to fix it. For a cheap and cheerful car its good, but you can do a lot better for less if you go 2nd hand like the T2. For the price of a Rustler you could get a T2 - shop about on ebay for one with lunsford turnbuckles and mip cvd's (a lot of the ones that pop up have these), and get alloy arm mounts, RPM f/r arms and bodyposts, some decent tyres and have change left.

Only thing the Rustler has going for it, is a lot more people own and drive it, so its easier to find info on. In my opinion thats it.

I might get a video of my T2 next time I run it, my new mobile takes pretty good video's for a phone, then you'll see why I like it :)

Oh btw, in a T2, with only a very very simple modification I came up with last year, you can fit 9 cells flat, down the middle of the chassis. This gives some *serious* power, and keeps the weight nice and low. All you need is another pair of servo mounts, a small bit of lexan, plexiglass or alloy to make a very basic plate, and a part of the T3 steering bellcrank which costs like $3. It moves the steering servo and turns it 90 degrees, allowing you to fill the chassis with cells.

yah ok. Here's the one I own remember not one problem.www.rcpics.net/member/nrustler3

I dont really bash. Some times i would do 2-3 feet jumps. I would almost only run this truck on sand. I live 1/2 mile from the beach. Watch the video on the first post. Thats all i would do with it. Do the suspention armsbreak alot on a T3 compare to T2? Or only the chassis. I can dosomemachining with aluminum, and i know a great welder that can make me a aluminum chassis. I could make the suspention arms for the T3 they look fairly easy. Just rough cut the aluminum shape, clean up the edges on a mill, and drill some holes.

I never actually broken a rear wishbone on my T3, I bashed it quite a bit, and raced it last summer. The fronts break more often, but still quite strong, I came up with a solution to that as well :D

Get a pair of RPM front arms for the RC10 GT/T2/T, you will need to trim them on the rear edges to stop contact with the kickup plate (only very slightly, I did it with a sharp knife), these are a bit shorter than T3 arms, to balance it out you can get some Losi front axles for the XXXT - Lunsford do some quite cheap, Duratrax Evader ones work as well. Mount them in a pair of Losi steering arms, and its back to its original width, but with unbreakable front arms and titanium axles. You can cram the Losi axles into the standard steering arms, a friend of mine got some RPM T3 steering arms and drilled them out slightly for a perfect fit, would be the best option if you have a drill.

Btw..nrustler, have you ever ran a T2? No? Then don't claim a Rustler is stronger. Parts used on a Rustler are WEAKER, if you like I have a pair of bent C hubs I had to replace on my Stampede before I could sell it on, complete with bent kingpins I can take a pic of for you. This was from bouncing off a curb at a slow speed (27T brushed!), my T2 has taken much harder knocks and simply not cared. Your N Rustler looks nice and all and I'm pleased it runs good for you, but lets look at what you got for your money - plastic shocks with inferior material shafts, possibly the worst transmission design ever in a mainstream car, and overly flexible materials used throughout. Do the Rustlers even come with adjustable turnbuckles?

And there alot stronger than stock? Will the Rear T2 rpm arms work to?

No, the rear will not work - too short for the cvds to fit, if you had a custom chassis made for it, you could widen the chassis at the back to move the arm mounts out further, which would let you run them. To be hoenst though the rears are strong and pretty unlikely to fail on you.

The RPM arms are pretty indestructable - I've never broken one, the key to it is they're pretty flexible when enough load is put on them, but they always return to their original shape. Same goes for any RPM parts - in my opinion its some of the best parts you can buy for bashing.

I think i might go with that. Or ill make my own. What else breaks.is that it?

On a T3, front top plate and front arms are the weakest points. Everything else is pretty solid. The rear shock tower can break quite easily in a harsh cartwheel, but you can easily make one out of lexan or alloy sheet, I made lexan towers for my B3 which is essentially the same.

sorry, kinda off topic but........

you all say for bashing stick with rusty, and sounds like a few race t3 or t4.....

how would the rusty be for racing?

i bash, but want to start racing eventually, when i can find a track that is....

I read that Rustlers are not good racers at all.

Am I alowed to post a wanted thread?

I read that rustlers are not the greatest, but can do.

You are allowed to post a wanted thread, only as long as most of the conversation is in PM, Mods please correct me if im wrong