Done some more testing today. Ran it with the Eagle Tree, max amp draw was 80amps.

My one concern when building this was the clicker for the front and my testing so far confirmed this was a concern. I originally had it locked up but tried loosening it a little to get less front brake, decided I didn't like it and tightened it back up. However I didn't bottom out the spring when I tightened it up, just until it stopped clicking and then a little more. I just came in because I lost front wheel drive, thought that I stripped a diff cause the clicker is only supposed to let it slip under braking....WRONG! The plastic teeth where half stripped and allowed it to slip even under acceleration. A little CA took care of this though.

By by clicker. How long can those little plastic teeth last anyways. That sucks, Mike needs to make a metal one.

mine with all the power you can put in it tekin 4.5 and hyperion G3 2s 6500vx.

I still gotta rebuild the shocks, put an esc in there. prolly a mmp for right now (keep my spare rx8 as my spare), put my 17mm hubs on, and then i gotta break it in.

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...91_42821_n.jpg

well the revo 17mm adapters are bust these are the NewEra ones i had,
http://www.neweramodels.com/jpeg/ter1171203380072.jpg

i KNOW these will work when drilled out to 6mm and the wont get sloppy becasue you still use the stock axle nut to pinch them. But stupid me i either gave mine away i guess because i cannot find them for the life of me........ been looking for hours.

or i could use these http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=flm21160 but i really like all my cars having the same wheel wrench.

found another option, these are Proline 17mm rear adpaters for their Protrac 2wd setup, these will garuntee the offset is correct but they still need drilled to 6mm (no big deal).

http://www.gshobby.com/images/Proline/PRO606403-450.jpg

local shop has these instock so i may grab these up if i never find my new era ones i had.

Just sent a request to AKA if/when there will be adapters for the sc10 4x4.
Reply pending...

Maybe wo should get Mike to make them, he surely could react a lot faster than the bigger companies.

Why does the 4x4 instruction book only specify motors by turn count? The 2wd book had both kv and turns? Feels like they are pushing crappy 6 minute ROAR motors for this thing.

i gotta say that that tekin scx4 4.5t (about 5000kv) on that big hyperion 2s is a NASTY combo ,its as fast as any of my 8th scales, runs stone cold, and i can run 12-13 at race pace on our big track on a little track ive ran it for 30+ on one pack. Definetly a setup to look into!

How do you think the sc10 handles compared a SCRT or SCTE?

I haven't had it on a track yet due to the non stop rain here. I've only seen a slash 4x4 and a Jammin on the track once and there where no other SC trucks to compare to, it was two guys that don't race so it's hard to judge esspecially when the only other thing on the track where 1/8 truggies and buggies

I've had mine to the track and it was very smooth! I ran the 1410 SCT system with fan over esc configuration on 2 and 3s. 3s 3000 got me 9:50 of run time in a 10min race. 19/93? Lipos were tricky to install and extract rapidly.

Mine is very very responsive (i love it), if your not a decent driver it might be a bit of a handful. It jumps very well also.

the Proline protrac 17mm hubs work great youll need some extra shims and be sure to get the rears all the way around. I drilled them out and shaved the stock drive pins down just a hair (too long to fit in the slot). They are the EXACT right offset and work great.

Sorry for the delay, had some personal issues to deal with. Weighed it today. SC10 4x4, CRC 5600mah 65C 2s, MMP, 1410 1Y, 7955TG, proline bowtie SC M4, and a SC10 RTR body, oh....and a Spektrum 3100 rx and PT weighed in at 6lbs 2oz