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Still, I would've got one if it was still on production.
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I agree with Squee. And U.E. does make high quality parts and so does FLM. I guess it comes down to $$$$ and preference.
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If you get the cradles ($75) you can mount them with stock shock threads under the chassis and have the best of both worlds. Run four packs if you want. If I can figure out how, I'll post a picture of mine.
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Captain,
What version of the FLM chassis do you have? V2? V3? I upgraded my V2 for a V3 a couple of months back. The V3 has the battery slots like the Lightning. The V2 was a royal pain to secure the batteries to. FLM still recommends using G-Maxx battery straps with either version. The quality of the latest FLM V3 Emaxx chassis is good with the following notes: 1) No antenna mount provision 2) Batter hold downs still "iffy", must use G-Maxx straps 3) No anodizing like UE lightning so make sure to protect the chassis from the batteries to prevent shorts! 4) No perfect matches on the skid plates although you can tweak most to fit.5) No on/off switch mounting provision for esc. These are some of the reasons why the FLM is cheaper. Also, lower cost materials (6061 vs 7075), lno anodizing/bare aluminum, less "engineering" involved especially in terms of details. BUT, GREAT WARRANTY and LOW PRICE. For me it was a good trade off especiall since I couldn't find a lightning and I'm not ready to do a G-Maxx/Stadium truck conversion. |
Yet a-nother Very nice truck.
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I think its V3. It has full battery slots. However, I'll get the G-Maxx chassis in the future with God's willing. The FLM chassis is really not quite a good chassis, but it's quite affordable and tough enough for being rough.
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This is the V2. The V3 has horizontal battery slots like the UE Supermaxx Lightening or the Gorillamaxx Chassis.
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I had the V2 and could never get the batteries to stay put and when I did they became suge a huge pain to take out I just charged them in the truck!
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Then mine IS the 3rd version. Nay, I'll surely get the G-Maxx.
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FLM chassis don't have special places to mount switches, but if you can drill a 3mm hole in the switch somewhere, there are good places to mount them. The Novack switch works well that way. The Quark will be tougher, but it's just a switch, and anything similar should work. I mounted an antenna on the left side of the transmission, by using a longer screw to go through the case and into the antenna mount. I used both FLM and Gorilla battery straps - the Gorillas the long way and the FLM's the short way. It's on eBay now if you want to see it. You could also cut the battery trays out of a stock chassis and mount them, or bend a piece of aluminum into a channel, and use o-rings stretched across the top to secure the batteries.
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Thanks! That is quite helpful.
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AE cup's all the way. Way stronger than those silly ugly strap's imo.
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I agree, those straps are crap with a capital C.. Even the wide ones didn't last 1 run. and the batteries keep falling out. complete worthless IMO.. it's a tight fit on a CF gmaxx chassis, but you can fit AE cups on them.
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