Anyone know the link to BK's site???

Yeah, 3mm is over kill. I have two ti rears going now. one is brand new, looks like you placed a bid on it.

http://www.bk-electronics.com/bk_eng.html

nevermind.........got it.

indeed I do. Funny how that worked out.

Who makes them and what's your reserve?

Any fronts?

They are GA of course! LOL, need the jing for some other goodies! LOL, can't remember the reserve I put on that thing! Let me look....

Edit. 20.00, here is what I originally got from them http://www.greatassemblyrc.com/Store...44&InfoID=3583
the ones they have with the extended upper part is at 42.00 for one i think

I run the quark 80b with neu 1512 2.5d.

Procharged, YGPM

What kind of vehicle? got any weight and gearing info? Just wondering what the 80B can handle.

measure them, they are even thicker than 3mm.. they are beefy.. I am using the 2mm's on my truck, and they are thicker than 2mm.

About the 9920; i used it on my heavy savage with 16 cells and the 8XL, and it goes strong. the 12020 uses an extra board with more fetts. other than that, it's the same.

The 9920 is more than capable in an MT. The 12020, like Serum said, is the same, just another board, but it's nice too. I have both esc's and like them both.

Sounds like the consensus is pushing me towards a BK9920 with a LMT 1940/8 or an 8XL (C-Series) if I want to save some $$$.

Well, just so you know, if you had a XL feiagao or wanderer, and you liked how it ran, and than switched to a 1940/1950, you would still notice the quality and performance difference, and i mean you would even "feel" it. I just love the 1950 i have. It really is your choice though.

I think that would be an excellent choice. You would be very happy with that setup.:027:

EDIT: Get the High Amp version of 1940/8 if you can. The High Amp version comes with conventional motor wires which are better IMO than the 3.5mm sockets on the back of the regular motor version. That way you can use whatever connectors you like.

Well, the Quark/Neu combo is my favorite so far. With a heatsink and fan on the Quark, I haven't ever had the motor or controller over 150 degrees - even after non stop runs in the summer. It is also quite smooth and driveable. This is the "high end" of the spectrum in terms of $$, but I have had excellent luck with this setup.
Now, the warrior controllers are by far the simplest controller to use, and they don't have any funny quirks. They simply work. Simplicity at its best IMO. No frills really, but they are quite durable, smooth and capable for the money. At the holiday price right now, I don't think you will find a more durable, capable controller in this price range. Now, these don't have a ton of programability, or a LVC, and they don't like 4 pole motors. The BK/Lehner motor controller combo, though, is a close second behind the Quark/Neu combo. It runs pretty smooth and efficiently and with a Lehner 19xx motor and a fan, these can run long and strong withoput excess heat. If the BKs would run a 4 pole motor and had a LVC, it would be closer to my favorite, but the Quark/Neu gets the nod at this time.
I Like The Neu motors over the Lehners for a couple reasons -deeper screw holes, and they run a little cooler in my experience, made in California, so service is faster and cheaper, and they are slightly less expensive to begin with. The Lehner motors are top notch, though. I have a few personal 1940 motors and a 1930 and they all are awesome motors. If they(Lehner) had better service and deeper screw mounting holes, I would rank them as my favorite of all simply because ANY sensorless controller will run them. Only the higher end controllers seem to function well with the Neu motors(MGM, Quark, Shulze).

Also, any one of these combos will need a rx pack or UBEC, as well as disabling the controllers BEC. For a budget, the Warrior/Feigao combo is as good as it gets in this price range. A warrior/Lehner is a big step up(the motor DOES make a big difference in controller temps) and the Quark/Neu is my favorite. :)

At this moment. It is on a 8lb gmaxx with 3.3 stuff on it. Gearing is 14 52 gearing
with stock diffs. I did put an aluminum diff cup in. I run 4s lipo on it.
I had the same set up on a heavier gmaxx with big joes all aluminum
top in at 12lbs. I ran that on 6s with 14 52 gearing. It was alot faster
and had more power. It was just hard to get started on first hook up.
I get more run time now. 8000 and 6000 mah 4s verse 3800 6s .
I have got 45 to 60 mins on 8000 mah batts.