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Outlet/inlet in this instance it doesnt realy matter, all the air that passes through the fan has to be either sucked or blown through the slots in the side/s.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...tsinkareas.jpg In this pic if the purple has les area than the blue then you would probably be better off spacing your fan off from the heatsink like the red sketch and alow the fan to blow air over the heatsink as opposed to the green sketch which is what I belive you meant, flowing air through the channels. I would use thermal epoxy to attach the heatsink to the case. |
That doesn't matter as much as you think, ALL heatsinks have a back pressure, you want 'some' restriction, as to increase air velocity.
But yes, in that pic, the outlet is too small, plus the fin design is not efficient, will not work very well. The best design for a small add-on heatsink is RC-Monster. IMO |
I've always thought a good design would be a tunnel like heat sink with a bunch of fins on the tunnel and a fan or two blowing in the tunnel (and possibly some sucking air out).
The tunnel effect would be very efficient as all air moved by the fans would be forced to go through the tunnel and cool everything. The only obstacle I found was making it... |
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I have a 7XL too, I did the internal mod to it, but I don't know if it was just my radio TQ-3 (i know, i know) but after about 10+mins, it would sometimes stop. I wonder if it was a thermal, because it stopped, and I went and pushed it with my foot, the brakes are on?
Also, I was talking about the other heatsink there, not yours SMHERTZOG, just in case... :032: Yes, I would recommend soldering some caps to your Quark, that will help save those caps, the 7XL is one current greedy motha. |
[QUOTE=zeropointbug]I have a XL too, I did the internal mod to it, but I don't know if it was just my radio TQ-3 (i know, i know) but after about 10+mins, it would sometimes stop. I wonder if it was a thermal, because it stopped, and I went and pushed it with my foot, the brakes are on?QUOTE]
I had similar problem with my first quark. Although I was using a spektrum radio at the time. It would just stop I dont remeber if the brakes were on. I would wiggle the throttle and it would start up again. That one took a dump and the replacement didnt do it. |
Mine only does that "glitch" when my 5s is about to dump....it's like the lipo's don't like going down to 3.0 cut off....
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hey zeropoint-
If you read through your responses on this thread, you have changed your mind twice. Those fins and fillets as I said before add surface area to better dissipate heat. Cmon buddy,can't know everything about everything. I can quote you if you want. Native, thanks for the steady imput. |
I'm confused, what are you talking about? The fins and fillet part? I havn't changed my mind on anything, maybe you just misunderstood? You can show me the quote, maybe I can clarify what I meant?
ZPB |
Pay attention to what your writing...
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Sorry buddy :035: |
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Quote: Originally Posted by zeropointbug It definitely looks cool with the circles in there. But also, the circles are the downfall of a good heatsink, no offense. -Yes, I was talking about the RC-Monster 'looking' heatsink, whats your point? #2 Quote: Originally Posted by zeropointbug The design is actually pretty good... -If you didn't notice, I was talking about A4's heatsink design... ? #3 Quote: Originally Posted by zeropointbug the fin design is not efficient, will not work very well. The best design for a small add-on heatsink is RC-Monster. IMO -I again talking about the heatsink like in #1 quote. I think your confused, lil too much of the canadian herbs methinks. Sorry buddy Excuse me? Sounds like you have been listening to Bush too much, me thinks. ZPB |
Bush?! Aww cmon man, before he goes to bed every night, he prays cheney doesn't have another heart attack. So he doesn't have to be the real president. Becides, bring me some. Those fins add surface area to dissapate more heat. How may I ask does my heatsink look anything like the one sold on monster?
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