Hacker 8L.....good ol'days..=)

Definitely post a new thread on it. =) Let us know how the TrueRC lipo pack does. Does it have the same C ratings as the 6400 or 8000 TrueRC packs? Or was it built completely custom to fit your battery tray on the CRT.5? How much did it cost to make if you don't mind me asking?

I'll post up a thread when I have time, just starting school again and have some summer work to catch up on! The pack is a 15c cont. 20c burst. It should hold up fine, if it doesn't Dan @TrueRc has some 20c cont. cells if I need to upgrade. It is just a custom pack by that they usually sell them in a 1p format, I am getting 2p (4200Ah). The cells are only 102mm long and 35mm wide(as opposed to 135+mm long and 45mm wide) so they should fit much better than a standard lipo size pack, though it will be 50-60mm high because it is a 4s pack. Also you have PM about the price of the pack...

Bye

Since I've never had a Hacker before, is that a good thing or a bad thing?

I really wish I could get a LMT 1930 for the buggy.

I have a 1950/7 that I imagine I could gear really high - but I think it just weighs way to much and the benefits would be so minimal.

Just thought I would share some updated pictures of my CRT.5. The conversion is almost done after some tweaking.

Decided to run with my MaxAmps 3S 5000mAh in addition to the 4s A123 cells. The 5000mAh pack is just a great fit for the buggy.

Had a problem with the kingpin screws - they are not Locktited! Had one fully back out and got lost in the field - really glad that Ofna included an extra screw pack (that's a really nice touch)! When I went to replace that one I saw that two of the other three were almost completely backed out as well. I was actually surprised to see that the steering arms have metal inserts for the kingpin screws to go into (another nice touch) as I just assumed the screws were going into the composite plastic. They are all locktited now for sure.

Also - went with the 17T pinion and temps are all in check right now.

Filled the diffs with 7/7/5 as the front end was really pulling up and ballooning the front tires something fierce with 3k in the center.

Was getting some pretty bad glitching, so went with Cemtery Gates' ferrite ring solution in this thread http://www.rc-monster.com/tempforum/...ighlight=crt.5. Seems to be helping a lot.

Just got a React at a pretty good price off of Ebay, so that will be installed sometime next week. (Radio, 2 transceivers, 2 temp probes, 1 voltage probe, 1 speed probe all for $300:mdr:)

Nice! How are the temps for the ESC/lipos/motor?

I lost a kingpin screw and one of the inserts on the track. Like you, I've since lock-tited everything. Yeah, it comes with a screw pack, but no extra inserts. Grrr.

Got the buggy out for the first real runs today. Temps seem to be running a little on the high side with the shell on. I got it out for the first real test today - motor temps were stable at 140* and the ESC at 170*. The MaxAmps 5000mAh 3S lipos only got to 100*.

I think a little ventilation will help the ESC temps and I am going to put some heatsink compound on the motor heatsinks which should help a little bit there. I upped the Punch control on the MM from 20% to 50% as the front end is picking up a lot during acceleration.

Thinking of trying a 16T pinion to help out the temps too.

Pinions wear on the 17T has been really good.

This is a fun car!!!:intello:

Main problem I am still having even with 7K diff oil in the center diff is that front end is picking up and unloading a lot causing the front tires to ballon rediculously when I go for hard acceleration - if anyone has any recommendations to help in that regards please let me know.

Just painted a Pro-Line Crowd Pleaser body for the car tonight (will post pics next week when it dries and I get it cut to fit). I was a little disappointed in how thin the Lexan on the Ofna body is 0 the Pro-Line body is a much thicker Lexan.

OK - couldn't resist - here's a shot of the body I just painted this afternoon.

The car and body look awesome!! Nice job on both. Post some pictures of the body mounted, will you?

Heh, I do bodies the same way (one color fades to another). My bodies are blue in front and fade to black. That combination of colors looks good, and will certainly match the stock-type wheels.

Thx - This is only the 3rd body I've painted so I am still trying to get the hang of it. I am using spray paint - so my control is pretty bad - would've preferred the fade to be a little closer to the middle. I did a good chuck of browsing through image galleries to pick out the two colors to go with the yellow wheels and wing.

Still getting some serious glitching even with the ferrite ring - breaks jam on mega hard and engine cogs bad while the steering servo maxes out to one direction or the other - a nice flip inducing combo. Can't wait to get my React radio.

Why not set the endpoints so they don't max out??

I do have the endpoints set - it's just when the glitch happens that it brakes hard and steers hard - I've read on a few other crt.5 threads that this has happened to other people. I am hoping that it is due to the electronics being cramped so close together and the React will take care of that - should receive it on Monday so we will see.......

Definitely sounds like the radio since it's affecting the steering too. Is your receiver and antenna close to any high current wires (esp the motor wires)?

Yeah if you take a look at the pic on the previous page with the yellow antenna - yeah they are only a few inches apart. Tight chassis.