wondering how much you charge for this modification ...nice work by the way!!


thanks

Brian

Is anyone running this mod on 6s? Is it holding up?

@ GriffenRU, I've seen two different post's on people having problems running the MM with a reciever pack. I have seen the same thing in testing different configurations on my stuff.

I've just been thinking it's a difference between the voltage of the reciever pack/radio and the internal bec voltage of the MM. Say a 1.5ms signal at 6.0volts and a MM brain board voltage of 5.

Is there a way to disconnect the internal BEC in the mamba max and back feed the circuit? I.E. the ubec/reciever pack powering the brain board?

Can you provide links to threads with problems?<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
And what problems do you have running separate BEC?<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
In general, "brains" have their own power supply and you do not want to mess with it and providing it externally won't be good thing either.<o:p></o:p>
What you can do, is completely take BEC part out, but if you do not use "RED" wire it is already out...<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
6S is under development, but nobody asked for it either...<o:p></o:p>
I won't recommend running 6S with my mod1 and mod2 with 27V TVS, but I cannot stop you either. (check for TVS temp with good battery packs)

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9368 and mabey I can find the other tonight.

No problems with a ubec (@5v), just with reciever packs.

When you disconnect the red wire and run a ubec, isn't the "brain" potentially looking for a certain 5-0v, 1-2ms signal? What if your radio was over 5 volts, couldn't the brain not see a proper 0 volts on the bottom of the square wave?

As long as signals TTL-compatible - no problems, referenced via ground.

Well, I just did the stage one myself and the Mamba went BOOM! I plugged in the battery, everything was fine, turned on and everything is fine. I then turned off, pull full throttle on the controller to program, turned it on and the two FETS just above the negative pole went POP! I think I blew a good Mamba due to me wanting to putz with it myself, trial by error.

I am willing to sell the three sheets of brass (4"X6") about and about .050" thick(paid $14.00 from Mc carr 1.5"x1" piece cut out), mamba with salvageable parts(paid $112.00 Starluck R/C), CPU heatsink thermal epoxy(Unopened paid $13 from Mc Carr), artic silver thermal compound(Barely used any, paid $10), 10 pack zener diodes as linked to in this thread(paid $2 Digikey). Make any offer and I probably will take. I'm going to buy a new mamba and add the 1800 micro farad cap and not go any further.

Sorry about the MM. I've thought about buying an MM and doing these mods myself then I remember that I have no soldering capabilities and would probably end up smoking something.:lol:

I've got the fet's mustbnitro, I could replace them for you (read free plus shipping). Do you know why it shorted? Arctic silver is conductive, any chance you got some where it should not have been? You can use arctic alumina it's not conductive.

If you don't want to fix the MM let me know and I'll make you an offer.

Can you attach picture?

i tried to flash some shots, but it didn't work to well, when I get up close it gets all fuzz and i can only take far back shots, which dosen't show you anything.

Now what happend was I got it all set up, plugged everything in and it worked fine, turned off, pulled full throttle to set, turned on, and poof, poof, the two FETS closest to the neg batt cable popped, I then plugged in the motor and tried it and the two FETS closest to the 330 caps in the opposite the wiring leads went POP.

my guess is that this is due to pure haste doing the job, my good iron was on the fritz and so I had to use my Hobbico Iron, which cost about $5 about 8 years ago so you can see the quality. Next I had to really heat up the board to remove the stock caps due to the bad iron and my desodering iron has the huge fixture on it with the bulb so I could not get it in there because it is next to the black bank. So a lot of heat was put on the board and it was hard to get the caps free and get a good soder, which I thought would pass, but I guess not. i am not guessing it is due to a bad connection, just hastey craftsmanship due to me trying to get this due as well as my nitro truck rebuilt before a big race coming up. i also do build cicuits at work, but was not epecting anything this small. I bought all the parts then the Mamba so i kinda put the cart before the horse and didn't look what i was getting into first. I am just scrapping this and buying a new one, I originally got this for a pretty good deal, but now I have to pay full price. I am not going to crack open this new Mamba and just add the auxilary cap on the battery leads and the zener diode under the battery leads. i also have two Novak fans I am going to add, if they don't cool it down at least they will look cool. I'm just going to write it off as a lesson learned and maybe if this mamba I'm trying next heats up to bad, griffinru will have some $$ in his paypal account.

GriffinRu - how difficult would it be to mod the MM further to accept 6s? Depending on the price, I might be interested in something like that. I want to run 6s in my new Emaxx with a Neu motor. I was thinking about the MGM but I noticed people are smoking them. Think it would be able to handle it?

Traxrob, GriffenRU would know better, but I think the stage1 and 2 mod's enable the older MM's to run 6S. Not sure about the new MM's though as some guy's are having a hard time with running them on 4S. There's a thread about that currently.

Some day we'll get the MMM and be able to run 6S under warranty :)

I am going to test 6S version this coming week-end. Once it would be done their would be limit on minimum 3S LiPo and custom cutoff, I am no sure yet, need to be tested.

DrKnow65: this link is for you, unless I am missing something.

- Waiting for MMM with Neu-like motors combo as well.

- What for you need warranty if it works :)