OK overkill, waaaaayyyyy to expensive to go with the whole thermal pad idea.

Ok, heres some update photos. I found some heatsinks when it clicked to talk to the gal who does my computer stuff for work. She had a few to choose from.
All of the cpu coolers were way to thick at the base even if I did cut down the fins, but I did find a nice on off a vidoe card.
The copper was too heavy and I ended up with an aluminum unit. After being cut in half and trimmed a bit it's a PERFECT fit... so pleased.
It is a little tall at 10mm but that's also a fix for my fan flow/dead spot concern as with the 3.5mm board between it's 23.5mm so the fan should blow directly into all the fins fairly equally.
http://photos.imageevent.com/drknow6...4449%20640.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/drknow6...4451%20640.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/drknow6...4452%20640.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/drknow6...4455%20640.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/drknow6...4458%20640.jpg

As always you can also view the pic's at http://imageevent.com/drknow65/rccarstuff
now I just need to order the caps, fans, diode, shrinkwrap, and wire...

to be contunued...

sounds good, what caps did you decide on?

I'm going to keep the 330uf 35v caps for the board like GriffunRU suggested, would have gone with bigger caps or doubled up a 220uf for each leg but I think it would restrict the air flow too much. The 3-330uf caps are going to get mounted parallel with the center-line of the board horizontally, that will let the air flow straight from the front fan (blowing in) thru the heat sinks and straight into the back fan (pulling out). I am going to run 4 1800uf caps in parallel for the power supply of the board on the opposite side of the chassis- more for balance than actual function as GruffenRU thought 1 would be enough.

I have reconsidered only using thermal grease and no adhesive as I am concerned movement in the sink/board/sink/board pack might slowly displace the grease. So I'm going to go ahead and put adhesive on 1/2 of the outboard fet's to keep a good mechanical bond between the board and sinks. like Griffen did on the bottom plate style sink on his modded MM.

The total forcast cost of the esc mod (not including the $11 solder sucker i bought for this project) is $54 save the wire and deans connectors.

MM esc/5700kv combo $130 (used ebay)
XXXT roller $67 (used ebay)
Maxamps 8000hv 2s2p batt $147 (new)
CC Bec $24 (new)
Z9100S jr servo $114 (new)
Esc mod parts $54
Wire and connectors $57 +/-

Total cost to spank the neighbors PRICELESS hahaha ($600)

not bad considering almost half that is the battery and servo.

Gotta love the fact that you paid almost as much for the servo as the esc/motor. Not sure why you opted for a servo with that much power, a futaba 3050 or hitec 645 would work just as good on a 2wd vehicle. I actually have run a futaba 3003 ($10) on my stampede and cannot tell the difference to a 645. The only benefit is the metal gears as they can take a hit better than the plastic.

Lincpimp,
I wanted a fast jr metal gear servo (have had good luck with them) the z9000s has .06/128oz.in at 6v and found a few for $114, then found the z9100s .06/188oz.in for the same price. Figured it was overkill but there aren't that many MG servo's that will do .06sec. If I find that it's too quick or too strong I can always slow it down and adjust the end points with the 3pm-2.4ghz radio.

GriffenRU,
I finally got around to drawing up the wiring setup for the electronis. I did it by hand and you'll have to look at the website photo to desipher it. Sorry for the sloppy writing but if you note my signiture I have issues with the quality difference between what I invision in my head and what I can actually get onto paper... I have a good drawing program and a turbocad mechanical program but it would take quite a bit longer.

Anyone is welcome to look at it and let me know if I'm missing somthing or have a better way of keeping out RFI/EMI?

I am still flip/flopping on wether I will "tee" off the red power supply as illustrated, or run the batt power straight to the ESC then loop back to the 1800uF caps, BEC, ect...

Also I'm going to power the ESC fans with the ESC's internal BEC, I know when guys use the MM over 3s (11.1v) they disconnect the ESC-BEC from the receiver. Do you think it would still work for the fans at 4s? Or do you think it should be run by the CC BEC? I'd like to keep all the ESC (and fan) circuits isolated from the radio/servo items.

Too small version,
http://photos.imageevent.com/drknow6...0001%20640.jpg

Good version, you'll have to click on "original" when you get there to see it clearly...photo #17... then click "original"
http://imageevent.com/drknow65/rccarstuff

By using the internal BEC on 4s, youre probably going to create more heat than the fans are removing. Theres no reason your external cc bec couldnt handle the fans along with the radio/ servos.
But now Im confused, I thought you were planning on running 2s? And now Im also confused as to why you need to do all this cooling work to run a mm/ 5700 on 2s.

The cooling stuff is preemptive (spelling?). I will be running 2s regularly, then when I've got a handle on that I would like to step up to 3s, then when I've got that down (way down the road), I'd like to step up to a better motor (neu or the like) and run 4s... but I'd like to not have to make any more mods from one step to the next. I'm also likley going to copy most of this work when I start converting some of my nitro 1/8th scale RC's later.

The CC BEC would handle the fans and the steering servo no problem, I was just hoping to keep the CC BEC power circuit entirely away from the esc/motor leads.

I had planned on doing the small plate sinks on the "brain" board anyway, suppose I could get a cheap 4s battery on ebay now to test the heat output of the ESC BEC running the two fans (not running the motor of course) just to see if it get's very hot. They have some really cheap 1200mah 4s lipo's on ebay all the time.

The only problem with running a switching BEC for 2s and 4s is the drop-out voltage. Switching BECs can require up to 1.5-2v higher than the BEC voltage. 2s is pushing it and the system won't be getting a solid 6v. It will still operate though. A UBEC is required for anything above 2s though.

The castle creations battery eliminator circuit (CC-BEC) is a switching unit right? Does this mean I won't be able to run the servo at 6volts when I'm using a 2s battery, as the internal ESC-BEC puts out 5volts and the CC-BEC could drop as much as 1.5volts? And it's not ok to run the radio and servo at 7.4volts correct?

Is there a ubec that will provide a constant 6.2volts while running a 7.4volt 2s battery (the voltage cutoff will be set for no less than 6.4volts to protect my lipo battery investment)

I think I also spoke too soon about running the fans on the ESC-BEC, for the cost of a pair of fans $22 to go to 12vdc fans and a voltage regulator that wouldn't work at 7.4volts v.s. a second CC-BEC $24 I think it would be more universal (2s,3s,4s) to keep 5vdc fans and add the second CC-BEC inside the ESC pack, that way if I wanted to run a third fan (motor cooling) I could just put a third pair of CC-BEC power output wires going to a connector outside the ESC pack. {read dedicated CC-BEC mounted inside the esc to run all 5vdc fans at all pack voltages}

I'm starting to feel like I'm straying from the MM tweaks and mods a bit but since these components go inside the esc it's not too much of a strech right? Or should I start a different thread about BEC stuff?

Some UBECs are able to go into "bypass mode" if the voltage falls below acceptable limits for the switcher to work right. It would depend on the UBEC though. Running a UBEC at 7.4 would work, but you might get slightly less voltage than 6v. However, 2s can get as low as 6v near cutoff, so your servos may see less than 6v at that point.

To help eliminate the problems with drop-out voltage at 2s, consider using a 5v UBEC. Even 2s near cutoff (6v) lets you use a UBEC with a 1v drop-out voltage. You'll also get more consistent servo performance because of the more consistent voltage.

The CC-BEC is programmable from 4.8v to 9v so I could set it to 5v... then it would at least be consistant.

I'm glad I at least got a good servo, it will still do .08sec at 5v and the torque is still overkill....

Ah, that good servo was a good idea then if you will run 5v instead of 6. Plus a high quality servo will last longer too. Probably a good purchase.

Keep in mind that as you raise the voltage and change to a more effecient motor the esc will most likely see a lower amp draw and run cooler. IU have found this and am slowly swithing over to lower kv motors and higher voltage batteries.

I used to have to run a fan on my MM (stock) with my 10l feigao on 4s lipo. I added a Novak Pwer cap (#5674 2700uf 25v) to the board where the power wires go in, and now I do not need the fan. My system is mild, but I had Griffinru mod a MM for me and it ran a 7xl in a 1/8 buggy that was geared for 40mph, and did not get hot even after a 40min run!

I like your idea with the heatsinks on both sides, it would be nice to be able to mover the "brains" so that both heatsinks would be able to "work" at the same rate. Considering that you will be using large amounts of caps, a small fan will mostlikely provide all the air flow you need. I am sure that your system will run cool, even with a higher draw 2s sytem.

hey guys, anyone know of a way to fix a fet that was not soldered down properly?

http://photos.imageevent.com/drknow6...%20480x320.jpg

if the picture stops working like most of mine have, you can go to
http://imageevent.com/drknow65/rccarstuff
and look at photo #19 (be sure to click "original" on the size option at the bottom) or view #20 to see just the one fet...
I tried heating it with a soldering gun and then soldering with a 30watt iron to no avail. The minor damage that was done to one corner was done when removing the heat sink, it was already lifted which is why the sink was not attached properly to begin with.

Any ideas?

here is a link to the fet info itself if this helps or if you're just curious...
http://www.ortodoxism.ro/datasheets/...3S_Rev1.11.pdf

Lincpimp, there will be two fans, a pusher and a puller fan. The board will be standing up vertical with a sink on the left and a sink on the right. The brain board will be on longer wires to make space for the heat sink. So the air will be flowing thru both heat sinks equally. kind of like a tunnel with fans at both ends and the power board standing up in the middle.

You can get a better idea of what I am saying if you look at the wiring setup in my previous post.

I do plan on stepping up the voltage and motor, just in small increments.