Well, I went to the track to test V2 in X2 today. Inconclusive. The External BEC & mod bits definitely works. However, after a few laps round the track, the truggy stopped. When I went over to check, I noticed that the top cover of the esc had dislocated from the bottom cover. Also noticed that one of the 6.5mm connector on the battery side was very loose. So fixed everything & use some zip ties to tie down the esc. New problem, the truggy was cutting out under throttle like a typical lipo cutoff situation. I check with my multimeter but the battery was fine. I tested the truggy off the ground & it looked ok. I'm kind of puzzled.

Earlier, I had set the lipo cutoff to 15.5V for 5S. I checked just now & it's still there. I changed to auto. Hopefully I can test it again later tonight.

Regards,
Joe Ling

Ok, after some detective work, I am having fixed feelings. I think the esc is fine but the motor is stuffed. I cannot rotate the rotor my hand. This could mean that the magnet is shattered or something. 1515 2200KV Tekno rc Neu motor. First outing for it too. Guess I have to send something far away to USA afterall...

Regards,
Joe Ling

Hi

My Monster died after 10 min with this BEC failure. Did someone tried to bring a Monster with BEC failure back to Life with this mod??

Because if i have to return it to Castle, shipping would be 1/4 of the ESC cost (overseas) + a lot of waiting time.

Greetz
Webwiesel

Yes, BrianG and Joeling both bought their MMMs back to life (well, Joeling did, Brian was pre-empting the possible). If you have the skills, you could attempt the mod, if not, better to get a replacement- though quite what caste is doing with all the dead MMMs I'd like to know; if they are getting chucked in the trash, then wouldnt it be better for them to get the dead esc checked out, then ship it back, along with a replacement. That way people can decide what to do with the dead esc (Castle can mark the dead one so people dont try to re-sell them to other people hoping to get a free esc by sending in the dead one again).

I hate to see stuff go to waste...

agreed, maybee we could salvage the dead ones w/o fear of voiding the warr.? or at least have some spare parts, or just use it for therapy and smash it!

Hi BrianG,

Any response from CC? I also want some if the price is tight...I mean right:lol:.

Regards,
Joe Ling

I spoke to early..now my V2 also died..it started with turning problem...the servo can barely turn the truck then it stopped....switch on off seem to work for a while then dies again...at first i thought it was the cutoff re-flash it and did everything but sadly now it doesnt even turn on....MMM still can connect to catlelink so i guess im off to do BrianG's mod (with the disclaimer in mind:lol: )

Please tell me if the V2 can be mod like the V1 (internal parts to be remove)

Yes, please see my pics in the previous pages

Regards,
Joe Ling

Joe Ling made the first V2 mod and it work for him...Now after doing mine it is ALIVE (with an RX batt, my UBEC hasnt arrive) I cant say how good it is since I cant run further test (raining outside)...

Anyway here is the photo of my mod...
this things are small and since I was hesitant to unsolder the 4 component...i did the barbarian technique...

Used a sword..I mean a utility knife and cut them loose :lol: verified no short...and tested it on my maxx but wheels hanging...

http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/734/dsc4106lj4.jpg

Need to run it more....also need to solder/short the switch...i find no use for it really after running test

So, that brings the tally of reanimated MMMs up to three now? Mine, Joeling, and now Truckbasher.

technically its 4 now, Joe ling both modded a V1 and another V2 :lol:

on this pics i only see the parts remove, but should i have to place some jumper?? and were connect the external BEC power wires???

And please, tell me if on this pic, it was the V1 or V2??

Tank you

Here is BrianG's wiring diagram....only need to short is the switch wires as it doesnt do anything....

Oh and that photo from Joe was V2....mine is V2 also only a bit smaller....

EDITED:
ohh and dont forget we do it at our own risk :rules:

BrianG, on this pics, i can see the removed parts, the bridge on the switch wires, but were is the brown wire goes on the Rx:oh:????

And after the mod, i know you run an external BEC but did you remove the red wire in the Rx plug?????
Do you have to route the external BEC output wire to power the ESC????

Please i need clear expanation, and tell me if i can do this on the V2.

I'am french and sometimes i've somes difficulties with english explanations.:whistle:

Thank you

OK thank you TruckBasher, you reply to my question, so the brown wire (or black, it's the same thing:intello:) on the Rx lead is simply remove, not use anymore??

So you give me the warrentie that i can do this on the V2 as well as the V1??

And another thing, should i mod it as soon as i'll recieve it or should i,am better to run it and wait it died???

And no worries for the warenties, if it died after the mod, i'll simply wait until CC solve their problems bofore to order another one, or maybe change the 3 caps on my MM for 35V rated caps and try it on 6s.............................

I removed the ground wire on the throttle because the input power ground is the same point as the throttle ground, so that means fewer wires. If you look at the wiring diagram, you can see I'm picking up full battery power directly from the ESC power solder points.

IF you did the wiring correctly (Brian's wiring diagram), on the MMM no black/brown was cut but this is only true if you directly soldered the black wire from the UBEC input to the MMM and the black wire output of the UBEC to the RX plug. This is a "ground" wire so basically it is the same.

If you are not sure about the wiring you can go over the mod but dont do anything on the wires going to RX. Then connect the UBEC directly on the RX as you would normally do....leave the red and black/brown as this will back feed the MMM Brain

edited:
My response was late :lol:

I see where your confusion is now. The Brian's diagram shows brown wire as the signal wire while in reality, the signal wire on the MMM is orange. The black ground wire in Brian's diagram is actually the brown wire on MMM. Confused now ?:whistle:

Regards,
Joe Ling

Thank you to BrianG, TruckBasher and JoeLing for your PM and your help, so if you have great results with your mod V2, i'll be more confident to run mine .

But i need to know if i'am better to mod it as soon as i'll recieve it or wait until it died. But if i wait, i risk to have a fire on the ESC, so the mod will be impossible.

And after your mod it, should i run a fan on it power by the Rx or you can run it without fan??

OK i'll did exactly what BrianG did on his drawing, solder the red/black input BEC directly to the main connector on the ESC.

IMO the burn MMM are caused by a totally different issue but just my opinion. I did not do any mods on my fan I let the brain power it when needed....it wouldnt hurt to run it via UBEC but it will only add more wiring than needed..you can also do the no fan mod of Brian :intello:

Ho, if my solder skill was not on pair with BrianG one:whistle: can i simply solder the red/black input BEC wire to the 6.5mm connector on the input batterie wire on the ESC side??

What is this No fan mod??

Well, it depends. If you're racing and can't afford downtime due to a bad BEC, then mod it right away. If you're just bashing, then you don't lose anything by waiting until if/when it does go bad. You may luck out and never have a problem.

Either way, this mod ONLY addresses the BEC issue. It will NOT affect if the ESC decides to smoke or not - that's usually caused by something else entirely.

Also, be aware that if your external BEC blows for whatever reason, it will affect the ESC too (since the brains run off the BEC). We are assuming that the external BEC will run perfectly, but some do develop problems.

Well, I use mine in a non racing situation although it's on a track. I had to do the mod since the thing was DOA & I live far far away from CC. I have received my second V2 form Monster Mike. This one is likely to go into my FLM savage. I will run it stock until the BEC dies then do the mod. However, I still hope that I don't have to do any mods.

For the fan, I chop off the original connector & attached another servo lead & plug it into the receiver to receive power from the UBEC. I think a fan or any extra cooling is more than welcome in my part of the world where ambient temperature is anywhere between 30 to 35 deg C during rc session. I think this applies to TruckBasher in Singapore ya ? I was there last week & will be there again end of the month.

Regards,
Joe Ling

The diagram looks OK to me. The orange (signal) wire is on top, the red wire is in the middle, and the ground (brown or black) is on the bottom, but removed. Don't forget, the diagram is flipped around from the actual pics.

I just bought another since the replacement for my V1 has not arrived yet. I'm leaning on modding it whenever it arrives. I think CC should just do the mod themselves to include installing a UBEC. I think this is easier and faster than retooling again.

But, instead of running a UBEC, I plan on using a rechargeable rx pack from one of my supermaxxes to prevent burning up my 5955TG steering servo. I might still use the fan by using a Y harness coming off of channel 2 or just plug it into channel 3 of my rx.

Is this possible? Thanks.

Or should I just buy the HV 110?

Wow sorry man, My eyes deceive me. On my monitor the orange wire looks like brown. Sorry about that :oops:.

Regards,
Joe Ling

If using a reciever pack, the wiring will be a bit different. Give me a little while to whip up a diagram for that...

And, the HV110 is an awesome controller, but lack of reverse, true brakes, and needing to use the pistix adaptor to use a pistol grip radio makes it less than ideal IMO.

Thanks Brian!!!

I'm hoping to receive the MMM from Tower before this coming weekend so I can do the mod and ran my truck. My nitros are taking up all my time again :lol:.

I was definitely eyeing the HV 110. Same goes to the MGM :whistle::whistle:.

Here is the wiring diagram for using an Rx pack instead:

http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/mm...d_schem_rx.jpg

Brian it wouldn't it be easier to just use the battery slot on the rx. This would permantly power the MMM and without some kind of switch just drain the battery...

Yup, that can work too. Just making sure people realize that there is a slight wiring change (mainly the ground connection).

So by using a rx pack, I don't have to cut the red wire from the ESC (looking at the diagram). I will be using the batt port on the rx itself so I don't have to splice into the esc wire.

Thanks. Will see how it works when I get my MMM.

Doing so would achieve the same result :party:.

Hehe that the same thing I said on page 7..I guess it better come from the expert to be reliable :lol:

I don't think it's that, but people just want to make SURE to do it right and not blow anything. Modding internal circuits is not something that is done by everyone.

And, I said this somewhere before, but the only reason why I made the wiring the way I did in mine was to reduce the rats nest of wires going everywhere, but it obviously is not the ONLY way to do it.

Just did this mod, everuthing went well- everything work but the esc itself, running though a rx pack when i run power to the rx, the fan just spins and the Led's are recognizing throttle input but the esc wont arm, any ideas?

Responded in your other thread...