Couple Q's about the charger
 

Im about to charge my batterys now. Read the manual but it really doesn't make any sense to me, hehe. So is it that simple if I want to balance that one battery pack, I choose [Memory No.2] A123 19.8v 2300 C:10.0A and then connect Main leads to the charger and then the balancer tap to the balancer board and press Enter?

And if I want to charge both the batterys I just choose same settings only now select 4600mah to capacity, connect the harness lead to the charger, no balancer tap and enter?
Just to make sure everything is ok.. Any nice advices are welcome concerning the batterys and charger.

Edit:
Charger is EOS 0610i NET and batterys 2xA123 2300mah 19,8V

I would set the charge current to 2.3 amps, or 4.6 amps at most for a single pack- you can in theory charge them at upto ~10amps, but I would play it safe to start with. That is pretty much all you have to do though yeah, just be sure to balance the packs afterwards if you dont while charging 2 packs together. Kinda strange, but my packs always stay balanced right through a charge, then in the last few minutes one cell always reaches 3.6v and the charge terminates, while the other cells are all still at about 3.4v each- weirdness...

OK, Thanks. Charged the battery without problems, first one tooked 90 min and second one just 50 min with 2.3A. So it seems that the balancing times alternates a little..

I found the bad solder what caused the gogging, it was so bad that if I just twisted the connector it cutted the power :tongue:. Now the esc works much better, but still a little glitch at the startup, in my memory it has done always that..
Did a few speed passes at the street, dang it goes smoothly :lol: So much power and what a speed. Temps: battery 28°C(82.4°F), esc 38°C(100.4°F) & motor around 50°C(122°F). I think I can still gear up a little and hope that motor will cool down a bit.

Still have to mount all the wirings and now have couple questions about on/off switch and fans.
I have now On/off switch between bec and receiver, started to wonder that can I place the switch after the batterys? So I could close the bec/receiver circuit at once. Can the switch handle over 20V?

And about fans, I have two 35mm 5V 0.7 watts fans, can I plug 'em in to the receivers 3rd channel?

Im gonna do more tests today, if I get the wirings etc. done. So video and elogger graph coming soon.. Stay tuned!

Good news on the build! More pics please

No on the switch it won't take the amps.

Yes on the fans on the 3rd channel... Cheers

Thanks. Oh more pics, here ya go :intello:

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Hel1QqD2BXflArBN6q2qNg"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/olbero/SOuisOClXVI/AAAAAAAAAp8/oWlh7gzIs1I/s400/IMG_0477.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tK0r_gxx3Fd7OBTybdYtrA"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/olbero/SOuisKf0uZI/AAAAAAAAAnw/G5DSB1V_Bbk/s400/IMG_0478.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/M6a1WCgwSkjaj17a3wqkUA"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/olbero/SOuisQQF-eI/AAAAAAAAAqI/A6ioPHn3k2I/s400/IMG_0479.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/2vLz24_5W2bDi9-WfSn-UA"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/olbero/SOuisj1yl7I/AAAAAAAAAqM/KFgkc1WyBL8/s400/IMG_0480.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Fd6Bzhy_-EGw2FcSA8deCA"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/olbero/SOuisy0am7I/AAAAAAAAAqQ/wHQ2XSt-nRQ/s400/IMG_0481.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BXKtG-njnCffRelSsIMh4w"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/olbero/SOui7CBmL-I/AAAAAAAAAoQ/Oz-xtl2U5ww/s400/IMG_0482.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BXKtG-njnCffRelSsIMh4w"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/olbero/SOui7CBmL-I/AAAAAAAAAoQ/Oz-xtl2U5ww/s400/IMG_0482.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/rJtGaAnFCbNA_KKfpncSDQ"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/olbero/SOui7RwlcmI/AAAAAAAAAog/eXI_TOxt1pE/s400/IMG_0484.jpg" /></a>

Edit:
Had to take that Venom smart temp off, it didn't work. With fm radios it worked fine, but with spektrums it didn't :(

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/WO8tocLo06Nt0wi_8QHL9w"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/olbero/SOui7TrjWrI/AAAAAAAAAqU/xP5Zh-hSyLI/s400/IMG_0485.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/g10HV7sTU6zOFRz9uIWT6g"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/olbero/SOui7ZBEKhI/AAAAAAAAAow/4YzGs6gOC0s/s400/IMG_0486.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/EqNbB-fmVRtBb_WZoV1MGQ"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/olbero/SOujHa5f7ZI/AAAAAAAAAo8/eCQiuPjukX8/s400/IMG_0494.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3AM77tqbeOeKA4iqGZ_grQ"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/olbero/SOujHUJjSBI/AAAAAAAAApE/tvWAyqB1Ct8/s400/IMG_0495.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/u0Plqza4zBw7C5t-YkyxBA"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/olbero/SOujHa0T3PI/AAAAAAAAApM/wCLFpuCYQT8/s400/IMG_0496.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/vPZ6LMy7UROsZSxe-FU0Sw"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/olbero/SOujHtoxKVI/AAAAAAAAApU/dNMmg5j3jXQ/s400/IMG_0498.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/OwxW4yWkEB1hMffUiDaYmg"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/olbero/SOujHtyn9tI/AAAAAAAAApc/ADUuKm1jejg/s400/IMG_0501.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/r1ldBPD39HrhaESi2j5XsA"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/olbero/SOujReiP6GI/AAAAAAAAAqY/VhWR1SOQNEY/s400/IMG_0502.jpg" /></a>

Last ones

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BgvlqkLRUs_d8rSwCTXOiQ"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/olbero/SOujRQScmsI/AAAAAAAAAps/h5pe_uQr41Q/s400/IMG_0506.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Px7R0BJQIkMoV0XTkDYyKw"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/olbero/SOujRuvmfOI/AAAAAAAAAp0/pFpVTg4KZe8/s400/IMG_0507.jpg" /></a>

Did some driving today, I tooked a video, but it wasn't so good. I might upload it later or get a new one tomorrow.
Here's elogger data anyway, just click it and use magnifying glass to get bigger one.. Still got some stuttering when pulling wot, it didn't do it so much yesterday.. Have to figure it out somehow.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/byctwuTiBynJX9owoCo33w"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/olbero/SOu92-j3iuI/AAAAAAAAAqk/nxIbn-swH-Q/s400/G2r.jpg" /></a>

Looks very nice - I'll be buying some bike tube this week for sure!

Only a couple of suggestions -

1) look at the tekno sway bar kit
2) you could mount the esc off of the second ear - I can post up what I did later...

The batterys are holding just fine, noticed that it isn't necessary to pull the tubes all the way top of the packs.

I was considering the kit when I ordered the stuff from Mike, but at next order I will.
Yes, post pics :yes:

Edit:
About the elogger graph, does it look normal? Quite amps, its allmost pushing the esc's limits..

Here you go - Just watch those temps on the 9XL - I toasted mine on 6s - It got v hot and the rotor separated... You should look at a castle combo pre-order - That will put a HUGE smile on your face!

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...CMBash/048.jpg

Nice, at first I tought something similar, but ended putting the esc top of the rear suspension cause it was easier to mount.

Yes mmm combo is in my mind all the time :lol::intello:. But have to wait that castle can fix all the problems what they are having with the controller..

I think I still have some bad solder joint somewhere, when pulling wot it just cuts and same thing at the start up. Could it disturb brakes too? Now it feels like driving without them in another words they are very weak..

Could be another bad joint, or dirty connectors, or maybe your throttle trim got bumped? I'd say re-check all your wiring and then reprogramme the radio to the esc, making sure everything is at neutral.

Thanks suicide, I will re-check everything now. Just noticed that my rear diff jamms occasionally, looked in and the diff oil were all grey but all the theets were still in place.. Maybe bad shimming? Luckily I got extra diff.

Here's couple videos as I promised, nothing fancy though. I know quality sucks, iPhones camera isn't the best of the best.. It's running hot with the body on. Esc 60C-70C (140-158F), Motor 60C (140F) & batterys 30C(86F)

<embed id="VideoPlayback" src="http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?docid=-4524403585109485992&hl=en&fs=true" style="width:400px;height:326px" allowFullScreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"> </embed> <embed id="VideoPlayback" src="http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?docid=-1465522522885816949&hl=en&fs=true" style="width:400px;height:326px" allowFullScreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"> </embed>

Hmm, with the esc hotter than the motor, that wouod indicate over geared, though, it might also be the timing on the esc- if its not set to lowest, do so and see how it reacts. Runs fine though, very nimble truck.

Changed the rear diff to revos stock one, seems to run fine and at the same time added couple fans over the motor and esc. Temps were: esc around 40C (104F), motor around 40C (104F) and batterys 23C (73F) without body. I think it will still run too hot with the body on, maybe couple holes to it helps, we'll see. And I noticed that the pinion and spur mesh were too tight, now it rolls much better. Found out the braking weirdness too, it was set too low from the radio :oops:. Still have to find the damn solder joint :diablo:

Padding for the batterys

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Z8cs8A-lTBxNJ8UciIgONg"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/olbero/SPM5FKin7tI/AAAAAAAAAr0/ZNSU0jI2Kyk/s400/IMG_0522.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/OxQ4Pns02yx4chvncccxtQ"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/olbero/SPM5FG1URVI/AAAAAAAAArs/R1fsDyf6420/s400/IMG_0523.jpg" /></a>

Btw, any tricks for the spurs nylock, it keeps popping out, already tryed loctite..

Really, my nut on the spurgear shaft has never undone by itself. If there is enough shaft length*, then you could put another nut (nyloc or plain) on too, and that will prevent the main nyloc nut from undoing/backing off.

* Filthy smut & inuendo purely unintentional.

:intello:Yea, The problem is that the shaft isn't long enough for the nylock, it's holding on the lips. Anyway stick a more loctite, seems to hold so far.. I know this sounds very freaky :lol:

Bashed the hell out of the car today without body, temps were allright imo. esc & motor stayed near 50C (122F) and batterys only 23C (73F) outside 12C (54F).

Thats very odd. Assuming the slipper is put together correctly, there should be plenty of thread left for another nut- got a close up & in focus picture of your slipper? Im baffled...

Sure. Found these from here, I hope Dafni wouldn't mind for borrowing 'em. But relly the problem is same
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1.../tranny001.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1.../tranny003.jpg
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/wgq--YR4_HDtuSuID1CA_A"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/olbero/SPWlywS17KI/AAAAAAAAAr4/D9FoZ2-ZDpc/s400/IMG_0525.jpg" /></a>

Hi Hardstyle! I have a Strobe slipper too and what I did was look at what way the nut spins when you push the truck forward. The spur should spin in a counter clockwise direction when you look at it. This causes the nut to tighten or not move at all when the slipper is active. If your spur is going in a clockwise direction you can flip the diffs to get the spur to go in a counter clockwise direction. It’s kinda hard to explain in writing but I hope this helps. Sweet build by the way! :yes:

Thanks! Yes, I know what you mean.. So basically if I pull 180 to the gearbox, it would tighten the nut all the time when driving forward? When I got the roller the gearbox were the other way around.. Have to look more into it. That was good tip!

Ah, you have a Strobe slipper, that explains it. Yeah, if you flip the tranny around, then switch a couple motor > esc wires around, the truck will still travel forwards when you pull the throttle, but the nut on the slipper wont undo as the gears are spinning the opposite direction to before.

Ok, Im quite confident now that the esc is the reason what causes the gogging. All the joints has been re-soldered and it didn't help anything.. Anyways im looking new esc and motor so, have to drive with that thing till I got the new stuffs. I have been thinking Lutach's 6s esc and medusas 1600kv 80mm motor. What do you guys think? Motor too overkill?

Changed the wheels and 23mm hex's
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/r1F2xSW8utSu0ITKFFkpxA"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/olbero/SPd0EaMfFeI/AAAAAAAAAs4/rUlY0uuvL8Q/s400/IMG_0536.jpg" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/xI8MVCinEKbZYlGpTdDLOQ"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/olbero/SPd0Exs7BCI/AAAAAAAAAtA/k8S4JLma7EQ/s400/IMG_0538.jpg" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/k-nVpAm8xNNVnVrGRa34GQ"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/olbero/SPd0E3e4qpI/AAAAAAAAAtI/n0MOl1qckFU/s400/IMG_0540.jpg" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/t1mE9gUOhAKNXQUwv5Tn9A"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/olbero/SPd0FNAKSYI/AAAAAAAAAtQ/LRENeQdEpxQ/s400/IMG_0542.jpg" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/yZ8MvMbzE7vzinyQlXMKyw"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/olbero/SPd0FQ1GcXI/AAAAAAAAAtY/34vuLo15zLA/s400/IMG_0543.jpg" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/TmtvaP5dsZ-lUskUstvFUA"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/olbero/SPd0WZHWU1I/AAAAAAAAAtg/kbaMOeD0dTU/s400/IMG_0544.jpg" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ySFJj0QdTULX1O30-R9Zpg"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/olbero/SPd0WgCSQfI/AAAAAAAAAt4/a_DSUM4mhrA/s400/IMG_0535.jpg" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/wgENonpK7qZJid3TWJO9fw"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/olbero/SPd0WUI9tlI/AAAAAAAAAtw/Xa1caSIUk3A/s400/IMG_0546.jpg" /></a>

Can't wait to rain stops :yes:

I dont think it will be overkill, but it will be a torque monster. The LT-6s esc and a 1600kv motor on 5-6s lipo will be a very nice setup. Ofcourse, there is the new Hobbywing 6s 150amp esc comming soon too....

Is there such a thing as overkill?

Nah, You guys are right, I dont think there's a such thing as overkill :intello:

Prolly have to shot email to Mike, if he can get the motors. Medusa MR-3680-1600V2SE-5 is only pre order, in their website now.

I was playing my radio last night and I noticed that Throttle travel was set to 100% and I could still punch it to 150%. Should I keep it 100%?

And another thing about my MA 3s2p lipos. Does the numbers look ok, in the charger (its fully charged). Both has been puffed a little bit, any chance I could drive them? Now they arent swelled though. They probably won't give the full punch anymore, so have to look at the temps very carefully..

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/cgpsKPDCLUMvgkNoKQJwhA"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/olbero/SPdzvcIbUFI/AAAAAAAAAs0/hbVJwkw9PGc/s400/IMG_0549.jpg" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/XFAIO8lYAGPkg-W0C_BC8Q"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/olbero/SPdzvLYf6NI/AAAAAAAAAsw/JmIaa_Ndfz4/s400/IMG_0547.jpg" /></a>

Tested the new tyres
<embed id="VideoPlayback" src="http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?docid=5914632413532818502&hl=en&f s=true" style="width:600px;height:550px" allowFullScreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"> </embed>

That truck looks like a whole lot of man... Nice build... It looks a little soft on the suspension though... what weight oil are you using in the shocks (if you don't mind me asking)?

Alien

Ty. Not at all, but I really don't know about the shock oils, haven't changed them. They are almost as stiff as it can be now from springs, cause there is lot of battery weight.. Im not the best guy when it comes to tuning shocks etc. Now it keeps lifting the rear wheel up when turning hard..

I would leave the throttle EPA at 100%- moving it higher may cause issues (you wont gain any speed, but the esc may stop working properly as full thottle from the radio is higher than it was programmed to accept in terms of signal frequency of something like that). As for suspension tuning, I dont know much about that either really- best to talk to a racer; I just stuck some uber stiff springs on with the stock oil (40wt I think) and called it good, lol.

I'm running just about the stiffest springs with 60wt oil and it seems about right. Cheers

Hey Hardstyle, I did some searching and found this thread... ( REVO SHOCK SETUP ) I think it might offer some direction on setup for your shocks. With all that power, it's good to get a little more control.

Alien

Thanks guys for great advices! Im gonna test first the sway bars like Arct1k recommended earlier if it helps, what I think it will. It's not really that important to me, main point is that the truck moves :intello: what it doesn't now.

I think I broke the car yesterday :oops:.. I was on track yesterday, it didn't go so well. First my front steering block ate the bearing from the left, lost couple hex pins at the same time, friend figured that the hex's tighten nut has to be extreamely tight. Then my psu ate all my fuses and then this happened.. It just popped off :D. Have to look inside the box if it broke something else there

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/5r36mIh_AYYKDSsR_fOIyw"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/olbero/SPsYwch58BI/AAAAAAAAAuo/AbK3QHXalGQ/s400/IMG_0550.jpg" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3cjyTxhsofsj1Y5jzwcypQ"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/olbero/SPsYwpuJ1ZI/AAAAAAAAAuw/wjXvG-dOqsI/s400/IMG_0551.jpg" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/JzlD6J9IOJZSGNC2XAW4pA"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/olbero/SPsYw3D1DMI/AAAAAAAAAu4/lqHKBK8qbhI/s400/IMG_0552.jpg" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/6WK-wnQcx2YF4VY21zqHLg"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/olbero/SPsYw5ScJ2I/AAAAAAAAAvA/5IiDz1DuN54/s400/IMG_0554.jpg" /></a>

But sh.. happens, its the nature of this hobby :tongue:.

Looks like you killed the little roll-pin that holds the input gear onto the shaft; I did that recently too. You can just use a hex key and grind it down to size (diameter and length wise) for use as a stronger replacement. Use a little JBWeld or Epoxy to secure it in place and bob's your uncle.

You think I can still fix this or do I have to buy something? The gear is still in there, have to look at it tomorrow, hehe..

I was wondering here that is there any kind of center diff mount thingies to g2r? That would be sweet, no need for gearbox at all.. I have looked through couple threads in here, but they are mainly self-made systems.

wow freaky I did the same thing last weekend. I believe you can also just use a mod1 18 t pinion to. I just opted to replace it for now. Will look at something else if it happens again.

Its a simple fix Hardstyle. Just open the tranny up, hunt down any loose bits of pin that are inside the tranny, punch the remainder out of the shaft (if any), and then re-attach the gear to the shaft like I explained earlier. I found bits of pin stuck into the output gear that caused binding, so be sure to remove them and then re-grease the gears before putting it back together.

Ok, Thanks! I think I got it now, should be piece of cake.

Opened the tranny. Just few pics..

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/76X7jDAMnYewXpr0SeoNxw"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/olbero/SPzMDWfHLTI/AAAAAAAAAwg/cPicivTrTic/s400/IMG_0561.jpg" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/SiXBUfp4gYbYb497ZJ-TSQ"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/olbero/SPzMEZKR4DI/AAAAAAAAAwo/TnSBoas5NTs/s400/IMG_0563.jpg" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/MAfX1I4x507_ik_FbxeN-g"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/olbero/SPzMEZ6PsnI/AAAAAAAAAws/jm5MmjCUS3I/s400/IMG_0564.jpg" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/HrO_iubxRDUkIcShSH3D4g"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/olbero/SPzMMxib0GI/AAAAAAAAAww/OxZyv9UHi4w/s400/IMG_0565.jpg" /></a><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/84dMTDlu2fgpSdAv6KJMdQ"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/olbero/SPzMNVI5h7I/AAAAAAAAAw0/QbUa6AgEJws/s400/IMG_0566.jpg" /></a>

There's the pin in half :smile:

So about the center diff mount. Anybody knows, could Mike do such a thing for G2r? Is it profitable upgrade?

On the center diff issue, Mike can and has built them for a very lucky few (custom order). The only issues I am aware of are:

1) requires drilling new holes into the lower chassis plate to mount the unit, so you will have to send in all or part of your truck.
2) Limited to about a 44tooth spur spear on the center diff, meaning you will need some small pinions to get the correct gear ratio, but the calculator should help with that.

No idea about price ro timescale, you will have to email Mike about that. It is a nice upgrade though for a racer, if you can get it tuned just right, but for a general basher or speed machine, I dont see it as being so useful. The centrally mounted motor is the biggest draw for me, but I think Im starting to like the whole offset motor thing now...