I've run them through a pack and a half on 4S with no issues. If I'm not slinging the tire off with the power I'm running, I'd say they're pretty good. However, I've put a half dozen or more sets of beadlocks together. For those that haven't done it before, it isn't hard to screw it up and seat the bead incorrectly.

I actually find it much more fun to drive than the Rustler. It's longer, but it's about the same width as the Rustler.

How is the hex, does it look decently strong? I'm debating a pair hence the twenty questions.

Looked pretty good to me. Like I said, I've had no problems...and you can see the kind of torture mine has gone through. :mdr:

I'll have to get me a set then. I appreciate the input. :)

I don't have a rustler but I parted out my emaxx for funds for t a slash. Seems to be less fragile. That could be a result of it being a simpler vehicle. ie less parts. I like mine and am happy with the purchase.

Don't know if you've seen this one yet: http://www.miponline.com/MIP/News/En...missions!.html

and this one:
http://www.miponline.com/MIP/News/En..._Screws!_.html

Yeah, I saw that, but I've never been much of a fan of ball diffs. So, I'll just wait until a real diff comes out (if ever).

And I already got the FLM CVDs and they seem to be holding up well so far. They do use set screws to hold the cross pin in place, but also use a metal spring clip to help in case the pin gets loose.

I don't like ball diffs either. But this one seems easy to adjust and it's probably lighter than an oil filled gear diff. Does look like the gear is plastic though.

Another follow-up:

I took the Slash out again this weekend for some bashing. I replaced a popped yoke on one of my sliders with the slider from my other Slash. It held together just fine for me this weekend. I really had no major issues at all except this damn thing is too fast to run WOT on bumpy ground. The only other minor observation is that the beads on the Switch tires seem to be trying to pull out of the beadlocks. They just look like they're not aligned as well as I had originally mounted them. I believe that removing the tires and taping them should cure this issue in the future. It may also help make the truck more driveable without the rears becoming pizza cutters on every WOT burst.

Overall, the truck is holding up well to the power. I am definitely interested in picking up the new RPM rear bumper mount when it's available. I'm hoping that will keep it from popping off the edges of the chassis like it does with every roll over now.

I wonder is that mount will work with the flm chassis and tranny.

I never had that happen, the yokes just used to twist on me. Still liking the FLM CVDs so far. No pop-outs and are very strong.

Yeah, I'd like something different too. That design is pretty crappy IMO. I'm probably going to simply wrap a zip-tie around that area to keep the bumper in the grooves for now (using FLM tranny case). I have a few spare bumpers so when those wear out/deform from popping out often, I'll look into the RPM solution.

Let us know how that works out.