No, the 80A has 18 FETs, and they are different part numbers too. This is what leads me to believe there is an extra 12 FETs under the heatsink that is glued down in the 150A...

page 3 of this thread:rules:

Yeah, page 3 clearly shows the 12 FETs under the heatsink. I think there is an extra 12 sandwiched between the brains board and the power board, like there is with the 80A. That would give the 150A 24 FETs, which would make MUCH more sense...

there more(about 12) fet's underthe second board
so i can take a picture to show you the gut's

Ok, my fault. The 80A has the DPAK style MOSFETs and the 150A has the same MOSFETs as the Tekin R1/RS and maybe the Mamba Max and Mamba Monster. I apologize for my mistake.

The 150A uses 36 MOSFETs, ON semi's NTMFS4833N(the MMM uses NTMFS4108N).
Here's my picture.
On the top side of PCB: 4x6 = 24 FETs，there are two more rows underneath the power PCB, 2x6 = 12 FETs. Note the way the heatsink touches. Looks like HobbyWing was trying to cool the PCB, not directly the FETs (to take care of the ones on back side maybe? ).

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1236230469

Very nice......matches the MMM.

Now that makes more sense. 36 of those FETs more than meets the 150A spec. Those metal bars attached to the PCB is a good idea IMO because the PCB carries the majority of the heat (heat doesn't travel as well through the plastic FET casing as it does through the leads).

How did you get the heatsink off? I tried, but couldn't.

Yes, the metal bars act as a heat transfer, as well as a current flew path, a smart design.

Did anyone actually look at the current rating of each FET?
MMM --> NTMFS4108N = 30A x 36
HW --> 150A NTMFS4833N= 180A x 36

WTF?

We just hooked up the HW150 last night with the 36-74-2350 motor from HW and WOW. What a nice setup indeed...

The NTMFS4833N is rated for 26A at 25C and 19A at 85C. The NTMFS4108N is rated for 22A at 25C and 16A at 85C. This are the numbers I like to go by. Patrick did mention that datasheet specs are not really that useful. He probably saw an advantage on the 4108N over the 4833N.

At least we have someone who actually looked at the datasheets..well done lutach. viva brasil.

Got any vids? I'm trying to decide between the HW150 and the MMMv3.

There is more to an FET spec that just current and voltage figures. Some other ones are Rds_on, gate capacitance, slew rate, temperature coefficient, etc. Slew rate alone (which is just how long it takes for the FET to switch from 0 to max or vice-versa) can make a big difference in temperature.

BTW: I have some more results from running, but want to get a little more time before posting my observations...

Read here....

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19171


We are still pondering what is the difference, and why so big of a difference.

Edited my original post to add my operation observation (at the bottom of the post).

Great review. Given what my mtroniks truck Esc did I didnt think 80A was enough to push around an MT. The part that irks me though is my 7xl 38mph emaxx setup only pulls around 35A at WOT which could be considered continuous. The peaks are 78A. So why wouldnt an 80A continuous rated speed controller work that has peaks of 270A?

To me It seems like all this stuff is not rated correctly. You have to buy Escs that are overrated. You have to buy batteries that are overrated. If you do the math on my setup a 10C 4000mah battery with 10C continuous and 20C burst would work just fine, but you would puff a battery rated that small in an MT.

Now I just measure or estimate the peaks and I buy equipment where my peak is its continuous rating and that seems to work. But I really shouldnt have to do that.

Yeah, I know what you mean. It seems like car ESCs are rated the same way aircraft ESCs are, but airplanes pull a much more constant amperate, but the average is higher than car use.

Personally, even though the FETs are rated conservatively and derated properly for temperature and the size of the heatsink, I wouldn't run anything near its amp spec because cars are very peaky and bursts will hit much higher. Burst ratings are much more applicable rating IMO. Plus, there are FET switching losses (the square waves are not perfect square waves) and losses due to the rdson value, both of which cause too much heat in an area too small to be cooled effectively.

So, I too tend to look for ESCs with a continuous rating close to what I think my burst will be.

Hopefully soon, there will be a guide to help people select the right system. :wink: :whistle:

results from the mmm or the 150amps hobbywing??BrianG

What do you mean?

what resulat you got.it the mmm or hobbywing 150amp

The HW 80A...

Just wondering if you guys consider the MMM a budget ESC also. It seems the HW 150A matches the MMM in specs at the very least (the FETs can actually handle a bit more current), so I'm wondering why everyone considers it a budget ESC. Is it because it's from a relatively unknown mfr?...or because it's from China? I just picked one up. Haven't hooked it up yet, but considering it was considerably less than the MMM with similar specs, similar level of components, good commercial-grade mfg (I'm in electronics mfg), etc.

Support from the manufacturer (or lack of it) is what whould make it a "budget" esc IMO. CC has proven they will go the extra mile to make thier customers happy.

That alone is worth the extra money. Plus it's a U.S. company, proven reliability, very good computer programming, very smooth, etc.

Ok, Thanks. I have an MM and haven't had any issues with it other than it cogs a lot. But I run it in a 1/8, so I doubt I'd get any support for it anyways from CC since it's recommended for 1/10 only.

Is it just me or does it looks like the 80A has higher current capability than the 150A?

3x FETs at 62A each for 186A capacity of the 80A
6x FETs at 26A each for 156A capacity of the 150A

Thanks for the review! Will hopefully help me decide my setup...

Sorry to get in on this thread so late. I have gone through two MMM V3's since december, so while waiting for my third one to come back from castle warranty I ordered the EZrun 80Amp from Mike here at Rcmonster to use as a backup.

I'm running it in an Erevo along with the castle 2200 motor and it's been working great.
The only 2 flaws are not being able to run 6S on it, and a very slight pulse at speeds under 1mph. If you pull out with a VERY, VERY light throttle, the motor will pulse a tiny bit. But any other running, above 1mph and on is just great.

After 45 minute non stop runs the ESC is nice and cold,and has never shut down or glitched. I have a program card from an EZrun 60A that works perfectly with the 80A and makes setting up a 1 minute breeze.

I thought for such a cheap price ($75) this would be a great backup/disposable for my always failing Monster ESC's, BUT, the warrantied Monster has been returned and the EZrun 80 is gonna stay in REVO! The reliability and temps are great, so if it's still going in another month, the Monster will be for sale :)
I am very pleasantly surprised at the performance and price of the ESC, and wouldnt hesitate to recommend it to others. I wouldnt overgear it in a MT size truck for high speed runs, but for bashing, around 35 to 40mph, its great.

What battery and gearing are you running with the 2200 motor? Just interested to see... since you are having such good results!

For 4S setup I use trakpower 4900's and SPC 8000's :
http://www.specpointbatteries.com/in...p?productID=61

Both packs work well, but the long run times of the SPC are amazing.

Gearing is 20/68 or 20/64? Not positive on the spur. It made a good balance when switching between 4S to 6S setups. 6S was still fast, but controllable.

Alright guys, i have a question seeking some advice about this platform. I have a MP7.5, and wondered with a 4cell application and stock gearing, is it worth it to get the 150A version, or just stick with the 80A. Seems like that in a buggy application 80A would be fine.

any advice would be appreciated!

If you make sure the fan is always running fine, the 80A is fine. If the fan fails for whatever reason, it WILL get hot and thermal. The 150A model will heat up less with the same current (more FETs with lower resistance), so not as important to keep the fan running. However, I haven't used the 150A yet, so I can't guarantee that...

is there any reason to think that fan wouldnt run all the time with power being delivered? are you assuming the fan will break, and send the smoke monster to the esc as a result?

The fan runs all the time on the 80A, but being in a rough environment with dirt/debris and hard impacts, fans can and do fail. The ESC shouldn't burn up, it should thermal.

Mine's still gong strong in the Erevo.
No problems whatsoever, and I drive it everyday it's not raining :)

It should work great in your buggy, and for $77 bucks, even if something happens, who cares :)

okay, guys, thanks for the help. i also have a mamba max, brand new in the box that i thought about using as well with the BEC and so on. but i won't steal the thread talking about that.

its just coming down to modding the MM a little or spending the dough for the ezrun system with motor and so on...

For the greater good of the forum (me mostly) get the EZ-RUN and beat the crap out of it. I'd love to know how it holds up.

btw I think I remember you from the GB01 forums.