The reason I'm asking is because I got a really good deal on some SuperShocks. Still excellent replies! I think I found my baseline setup on UE from George16(Lito). I'm gonna go with black springs in the rear and blue in the front 60wt all round.

First off, Lito is the man, he is seriously one of the best people you will ever meet, and he really knows his stuff! He is a very good friend of mine, and I go to him when I need help, and he has never failed me...he rocks!

Second off, the UE Supershocks are the best shocks you can buy, just get the UE spring pack for them so you can get them tuned just right.

Yep I got the SuperShocks!:party:

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_0908.jpg

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The tire marks/tracks are like 3 weeks old!!!! From when my cousin Brian brought his Losi 8t 1.0.

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...19-09_1802.jpg

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Shes almost there. :angel: The diffs don't don't have long I can hear them popping(I think) under load. Haven't decided what to do about the diff yet, but after I do I'm pretty much done (except for tuning) until Mike releases the CD/motor mount!

8 TRX Big Bores with Integy prog greens 6.9oz. Ue Super Shocks with 2 reds and 2 blues 5.1oz. Almost 2oz difference. Looking for black springs now and I got up 60 or 70wt oil in them. They have 50 now. Anyone need some Big Bores and or ultrashocks with about 80 springs? :intello::lol:

Looking good!

Man, I never realized just how tall those FLM towers were...they are huge! You could mount your body well over ½" lower if you were running UE Knucklehead towers. Plus, the Knuckleheads are much stronger, and a lot lighter!

Thanx, and yeah they are tall! Me and Neil were talking about that earlier on his thread. But they really take advantage of the long SuperShocks. But yeah Kheads and/or the duh engineering short towers are in the plan as FLM towers don't fit well with Strobe braces.

Can anybody look at my springs and tell me if I've got the dual rate or the old single?

They are the newer style springs.

As a side thought, you could flip the tranny around so that the motor facers the rear, that way you wont have to run the wires over the mount & spur gear ( I see its padded eith foam, but you'd be suprised how hungry those things get...

**nom nom nom, silicon and copper, my favourite!**

Unless it affects weight balance too much, but it shouldnt do. That will also allow you to shorten to the motor wires quite alot for less resistance and a cleaner look. Though muddy is also a good look :lol:

Wildly new setup!
 

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_0940.jpg
Had to get some airflow to this beast! It was thermalling back there behind the tranny completely blocked and in 95F* it shuts it down midrun. I accidentally found out that Traxxas made their ESC mounting holes the same width as servos!:yes: Hopefully the switch is far enough along on the chassis that it won't get full of dust and die again. Its also REALLY easy to turn off and on where it is. And be sure to notice my quad debris protection on the fan. Makes for a mess of wires though! Would a reciever box help? Can anybody link me to a(some) waterproof ones?

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_0942.jpg
O man check this out! This setup I really stumbled upon while configuring the other. It is to off set the motor and the ESC being on the one side. I had to use a ziptie(light blue) toward the rear of the truck because a strap hits the rear center dogbone cup besides I've started charging batts while still straped to the truck anyway.

The ziptie almost underneath the spur gear is to stop the batt from moving foward any and it works! I've used zipties like this many times!

Mark and anyone else that uses a single battery could mount completely in the center! If they had a monoblock!

And do you see the potential of using three batts to uptain 6s or to increase runtime with some in parrelle! I mean doing it this way means you wouldn't have to stack the cells so high giving a lower center of gravity!
Once I get that CD/motor mount from Mike I'm gonna be really rocking this setup!

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_0938.jpg

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I put the FLM aluminum coller on the Proline steering shaft. I like it better!

How can I better protect my screws from rust? Spray them with WD40 every so often?

See pics. LOL

I need an aluminum tranny case! The four screws in the one remaining side(due to the GM 1 speed) just can't do the job! The whole unit is flexing enough that on every jump it moves enough to hit my MMM in its new location! Damaging it some! If the issue still stands with the FLM half case I don't want it. Does any other manufacturer make a billet tranny? I don't mind chunking the other half.

You can put brass inserts from Tony's Screws in the mounting holes and it will be rock-solid!

I worried it might sound that way. Nah the whole thing is flexing. its bad. I can do it with my hand. I sent Gina at FLM an email asking if the problems were solved. There are quite a few cast trannies... do you think cast would do in this situation?

Do you think this is really billet cut? It says computer machined... Could it be cast and machined? Cast first then machined? CLICK HERE

Thanx,
Zack

Yes, Cast then machined. And expensive, ouch.
Usually anything CNC'd will have tooling marks like FLM parts, unless it's somthing really nice and really expensive.

Yep my thoughts aswell. Yeah I really should have just waited until Mike made the CD/motor mounts... The flexing motor took a chunk out of my MMM case, causing the fan to stop working altogether... its not binding either, just not working. Still with the MMM so in the wind like it is it may get enough airflow to run without the pesky fan!

Ok, let me make sure I understand...you are flexing an aluminum E-Maxx transmission case?

Nay, flexing a plastic one. I have the single speed tranny, and my top tip for those with the flexing issue is to bolt the tranny down on the one side where you can use longer screws- that prevents it flexing or being ripped off should you have a nasty accident (see: here, thats his tranny and batts that go flying btw)... :yes:

Sure I don't mind explaining further.:smile: I'm flexing the remaining plasitic motor side tranny casing opposite the GMaxx single speed side tranny casing... The whole thing... not the screw holes. But your idea would be great if it was the screw holes...

I need an full aluminum (while still single speed) tranny. Or Mikes CD/motor mount unit.

I hope it is more clear. I can post a video of me flexing it with my hand...

Neil do you jump your truck? :intello: All I ever see of you driving is on flat FLAT lawn.

Can't you come up with some tranny I haven't thought of yet to use for a half case. lol

Yeah I've seen that. Poor poor E-Maxx!

The FLM half-case will not flex, especially if you use Tony's Screws to secure it, and use nuts where you can fit them. If you can't find their half-case, the backside of the full-case is the same thing.

Believe it or not, I have heard good things about the RD Logics aluminum transmission case.

Yeah I know the FLM will not flex but it won't fit with out some work. They are still available. I'm contacting Gina at FLM asking her some questions... Yep I have Tony Screws 12.9s.
I think the RDL case is for the 3905. Do they make one for the 3906? I don't think they were around back then...

I am pretty sure I have seen 3906 aluminum cases by them. What makes the FLM half-case not fit?

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Those brown spots under the bullets are nothing to worry about right?

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Is there a better fan I can use that is a drop in?

Wow! You need to clean that PC board in the WORST way!!!

Great can you try to find it for me!

Here is the fitment issue(s)

Hmmm...weird, that's for sure.

Jeesh Zack,

I miss your thread for a day and everything falls apart. First those are dual rate springs. Notice how part of the coils are father apart on the top than at the bottom where they are closer together? That is how you can tell.

Second where is the flexing occuring? In the cae itself or at the attachement to the chassis? I think we have the same setup and mine does not flex. Did you hold the truck in your hand and throttle it to see what was going on?

Mark

If you wanna see a clean wiring layout, look no further than my truck:

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...laMaxx/136.jpg

Basically, flip your tranny around, mount the esc behind the tranny so that you have a shnort wire run, then bundle up the servo wires and tuck them down in between the servo and the rx (which will be mounted over the vacant servo slot). An rx box will help to hide excess wires to an extent yeah. Then run the rx cable along the underside of the chassis (downt hew center line more or less) and have it emerge by the esc- zipties and some cable sheeving work wonders. I would also take a look at some other FLM based trucks to see how they did it :)

I had a big post typed up a few days ago and accidently deleted it. :whip::no: So I'm just going to hit the highlights.

Yeah Mark things get bad when you miss my thread! :lol: This build still has a long way to go... :whip::oh:

The whole case is flexing. Talked to FLM the issue is fixed. I'll be ordering one soon.

Is my MMM board really that bad? How do I clean it? Is there a more durable(more dirt sealed) fan that is a drop in?

I'm taking the plung, I'm getting the FLM Hybrids and HB Lightning diff to go with! What is the difference between the $62 HB lightning diffs and the $65 HB lightning Pro diffs??? On this RCM.com product page, 5 items from the bottom.

The Pro diffs are truggy ratio, and lower your overall gearing quite a bit more than the Buggy ones do- not ideal as it means having to run a larger pinion/ smaller spur to get the correct overall ratio ( buggy diffs only need a pinion 1 tooth larger than if you ran stock emaxx diffs ).

To clean the MMM pcb, I would just use a can of compressed air, and an old fine paint brush to sweep away the dirt and grit. You can get better fans that are the same size (25mm square), but you have to switch the plug over with the stock one so it will plug into the MMM board. Brands elude me right now, but there are a few threads on the subject burried in the CastleCreations sub-forum... somewhere...

Zack, like Neil said, get the buggy diffs. That is what I have. The truggy diffs will slow you down too much.

Cool guys and yeah I'll look into the fan thing. Oh and my new body should be here this week or monday! I got an email saying the last shipment of bodies got stolen at UPS!!

I'm having second thoughts on the Hybrids... What will it take to run my TRX 3.3 steel CVDs with UE Ultralite 8 spiders? Nothing? New cups? New diff outputs?

With 3.3 carriers everything will fit fine. With 2.5 carriers you might have to run the shorter Ofna Hyper7 diff outputs.

Look at what just came in!! Proline Ford F-650, for those bigger MTs. http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_0960.jpg

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http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_0974.jpg Now it looks good on the inside and on the outside!! Check out those sweet lightly tented windows! Should I put stickers on it? What is the best what to accurately cut the body post holes? Normally I just put alittle paint on the posts then set the body centered on the posts then cut the painted marks left by the painted post...

Your method for body post placement is fine, thats what I do. Best for making the holes is to use a proper reamer, but I find starting with a 1mm drill bit, then working out to an 8-9mm bit is fone for a good finish.

Stickers is a personal taste thing, but a few of Mike's items wouldnt hurt for sure... :mdr:

Wow... nice body... Loving the 'clean' white paint.:lol:

Okay good. Thanx Neil! I plan to use a dremel. Duh I will post the results. :lol:

Like I said jokingly on another forum, who said its painted yet? One session on this Alabama red clay then its painted! :rofl:

Thanks! I like it also! Thinking of getting another for show! :whistle:

-Zack

Body looks great with the badlands.