Well the Revos are pretty indestructable to begin with. But to answer the other part of your question, yes, I'm pretty certain the Revo tranny is lighter than the E-Maxx as well as the fact that hes using only slightly more than half what he was before.

There are a number of things that contributed to the weight loss:

- I used 1/16" 6061 T6 Al in V2 as opposed to 1/8" thick "crap" Al you find at Lowe's/Menards (don't know the grade) in V1. Plus, I used more metal in V1. In hindsight, I could have drilled large holes in some places to reduce weight in V1.

- The Emaxx tranny is quite a bit heavier than the Revo one. In the emaxx, the input gears and idler gear are metal. All the Revo gears are plastic, but they are wide so they are still tough. There are more bearings in the emaxx tranny too. I removed first gear and the OWB altogether in V2. Again in hindsight, I could've lightened up the Emaxx tranny by removing the input gear for first gear. The input shaft on the Revo tranny is smaller and therefore lighter. I also think the slipper assy in the Revo is lighter than the strobe, but not sure.

- The center drive shafts and cups in V1 were steel as opposed to the stock sliders in V2.

- I used heavier tires in V1 for better wear life.

Well, I've had some time to play around with this version and I must say I am VERY happy with the results. Even with a 10XL on 14 cells, top speed is plenty for me. I don't know how fast it is but the tires balloon about 1/2" at a guess.

I also didn't expect as much torque geared as high as I am. It will wheelie on command. At first I thought it was because there was a substantial amount of weight in the back, but it wheelies in reverse too. I even set the battery to "NiMH normal" and the throttle curve to the lowest setting. I had to set the brake to soft and the reverse EPA to 70% to keep from flipping when braking.

Runtime is right around 20 minutes give or take and that is running around at a local park in shortish grass.

Motor temps are right around 130F, but the ESC only gets to around 115F. Batts are cooler at around 100F. Outside temps have been hovering in the mid 90's with ~70% humidity (yuk). Looks like the added heatsink on the Quark works wonders, and no fan!

The locked tranny is holding up great (my epoxy filled second gear/clutch assembly). The slipper is set pretty tight too.

Yup, this one is definitely a keeper. It looks good (IMO) and runs good. Now I just have to get over to a track - the only one I know of is at my LHS and it's pretty small. I just don't want everyone there to laugh when they see how badly I drive! :dft001:

Someday, I'll get some Lipos or something.

BTW: I weighed the Revo today:

Without the 14 cell GP3300 pack: 10.58lbs
With the cells: 8.47lbs

Not too bad.

Funny how it gets lighter when you add the batteries :p. Don't worry, mine does that to...

I guess my point is that I need lighter batteries. Those batteries are ~1/4 the weight of the truck! The only non-NiMH that are light enough and will fit in the space I have are those Apogee LiMN cells. Maybe someday.

What about the TrueRC packs?

Or the Maxamps packs? The Maxamps 2s 6000mah is the same size as a 6cell NiMh pack, maybe not quite as wide as the NiMh pack.

The trueRC ones are the only 5S Lipos that I know will fit that have the discharge rate I want (~80A). They also have to be 2" wide by 5.75" long by 2" high. However, the TrueRC pack (8Ah, 10C) is kinda heavy. Too bad there wasn't any 20C packs available so I could go with a 5-6Ah pack that is lighter weight and has the discharge capability I want. So, I'll just wait for the perfect pack and use the heavy NiMH for now. If I'm gonna spend >= $170, it better be what I want...

Do you have the with and with out batteries weight backwards?
I would keep them cells if not. They remove weight more than add.
What about the evo packs? The have a good discharge rating.

Actually no, the batteries I'm using are filled with helium and do reduce the weight. ;)

And now Squee's response post makes sense. I didn't catch that before. Doh!

Seriously: Yeah, the weights are reversed. Are these the EVO cells you are talking about? The GP3300 cells I'm currently using work perfectly fine if a bit heavy.

i think squee is talking about these http://www.flightpower.co.uk/

Oh.

The only large single 5s pack that would fit length-wise is the 2500 pack, which is too low in capacity. Paralleling them would be too wide.

When I made the V2 Revo, I figured I would be able to find a decent battery solution to I was wrong. Oh well.

To summarize what I'm looking for:
- Weight = 500g-600g.
- Capacity = 4-6Ah.
- Continuous discharge of >= 80A.
- Fits into an area 6.25" long (160mm), by 2" wide (50.8mm) by 2" high (50.8mm). I remeasured the length just to be sure.

i think these will fit, but they are expensive! and :004: 30c discharge:004:

http://www.tanicpacks.com/catalog/pr...roducts_id=588

Wow....That brings back horrible memories...I coulda bout 2 of those NIP for $175 :020: :035:.

Sorry:o , just curious what did you buy instead?

Nothing :mad:1 ...

are the tanics good batteries? are they worth the price?( i can get them cheaper, my dad works at my lhs)...

Yea, there great batteries, but it depends on the price...

Wow, those are expensive! And they are "on sale" for "only" $310 right now. Other than the price (which I didn't specify in my list of "wants") they look like they are the way to go.

:sigh: Off to ebay to sell stuff I guess...

These are pretty close:

Cell Specifications
Chemistry Lipo
Capacity 5000mah
Voltage 5S-(18.5volts)
Length 6.38in 162mm
Width 1.93in 49mm
Thickness 1.93in 49mm
Weight 22.41oz 635gm
Product Description
18.5 volt (5s) Lipo pack. Rated at 20C continuous 30C Burst rate (under 30 seconds)

http://cheapbatterypacks.com/main.as...rt=P20#prodtop

Yeah, those are close.

So, it looks like I do have some choices after all:

- A 2s and 3s set of the Apogee LiMn packs: 3800mAh, 20C cont, 586g, 139mmX42mmX46mm for $250
- A 5s, 5Ah, 595g, 155mmX44mmX43mm tanicpack for $310
- A 5s, 5Ah, 635g, 162mmX49mmX38mm PolyRC pack from cheapbatterypacks for $310
- A 5s, 8Ah, 850g, 166mmX59mmX40mm pack made up from TrueRC for $175

You really can’t beat the price of the TrueRc lipo…..


I say get the TrueRc because of the price or…
Go for the gold and get the tanic

Just FYI, the Tanic and Poly RC packs should be the same due to the same cell origin - Enerland. If you were to get that pack, get the Tanic version, as Tanic is well known for customer service (not that Cheap Battery Packs isn't, it's just that I've seen Tanic's CS).

Yeah, the TrueRC is hard to beat for the capacity/price. But the weight is just about as heavy as the NiMHs I'm using. The Tanic pack is much lighter and still has 5Ah with good discharge rates.

Now to come up with cash. I still have a BK 12020 for sale (hint hint). ;)

Well, my original idea for locking the Revo tranny into second gear needed to be rethought. After running this afternoon, I was cleaning it up and noticed the tranny acting funny. So, I took it apart and discovered shredded epoxy all over the place. Strangely enough, the rest of the tranny gears look as good as new! :032: I was expecting to see a complete mess, but I'm not complaining. :)

So, I tried something else to lock that shifting hub into the second gear. I filed some round spots at three locations around the metal hub and then screwed three 4mm bolts into the gear. This should be strong enough, but only time will tell.

I don't know if anyone has mentioned this (don't wanna read through 8 pages!) but there is a conversion on ebay to mate a brushless motor straight to a revo tranny, and looks to be pretty easy. I think it's about 80 bucks.

that's quite expensive, considering you can buy a two speed maxx motor for about that money. and besides that, the bolts Brian is using most likely do about the same

Can you post a link to that adaptor you are talking about mwe-maxxowner? I did a search for both Revo and brushless, and Revo and transmission but didn't find anything.

As far as the bolts go; they seem to be holding up. Went through 6 cycles (about 1.5 hours) of track time with no problems. The whole idea of using the stock transmission was to be able to use as much stock parts as possible to make repairs easier and cheaper.

http://www.eaglesviewaerial.com/revoelectrickit.html

Okay, I was a little mistaken, it's not on ebay, searched all night for this link, but here it is! :)

He posted this on here, i commented him on the 'battery-tray'

Lol, sorry. Didn't mean for you to go to so much trouble!

Actually, if I remember correctly, that was simply an adaptor to use other 32p (0.8m) spurs with a 4-bolt mount pattern.

Yeah, too bad he dropped the MOD1 setup..

I bought two of those kits. I have a bunch of pictures but I haven't had time to do a write-up yet. You actually get both CF pieces for the batteries and the speed controller, along with an awesome aluminum motor mount that bolts into the factory holes, the 32p spur adapter, and the magical 2nd gear locking adapter.

Using that with a FOC and removing first gear gave me forward/brake/and reverse with the stock Revo tranny. I skipped on using the 32p adapter after some mesh problems and just run the Mod 1 pinions.

BTW, he also sells each component individually if you email him. The motor mount is actually the most expensive piece of the kit (about half the cost).

FYI about the motor mount part of the kit: His mount is nice, but it's made for short motors. The Wanderer XL is longer that the Novac motors, so the end of the motor would hit the suspension when compressed. The motor needs to sit higher to compensate, which changes the mount a bit. Then, if you don't use the adaptor hub for the spur gear, the mount has to sit closer to spur, which again changes the mount.

I actually started to work with him to design a new mount for larger motors, but stuff came up, so I ended up making my own. It's not that hard really, except making the motor adjustment slots.

If my new 2nd gear locking scheme doesn't work, I'll email him to get the special part he made.

Ahh, I've only used it with the Novak HV and a Fiego 8L. Both of those fit fine, although the mount could come forward a good bit if you don't need the 32p adapter. If you look at my pics, I'm pretty sure that's why his ended up where it is. Also here are some pics of the receiver fit for those that are interested.

http://www.donkeymotorsports.com/ima...de%20small.jpg

http://www.donkeymotorsports.com/ima...nt%20small.jpg

http://www.donkeymotorsports.com/ima...8L%20small.jpg

http://www.donkeymotorsports.com/ima...er%20small.jpg

http://www.donkeymotorsports.com/ima...er%20small.jpg

Even with the spacer gone, there isn't enough room for an XL size can if the mount sits that low. The front of my mount sits flush with the flywheel opening, and it still wouldn't fit. Actually, the XL can itself might just squeek by the suspension arm, but unless the wires are at the top, they'll hit the suspension arm. I really wanted the motor to sit lower too.

I might email him about that second gear locker. It's small and nicely done. I'm going to be picking up another tranny soon so I'll be able to have a spare. :)

Brain, have you tried to do anything with that center diff?

You know, I was getting ready to take the tranny apart to fix my epoxy mess and I remembered it and took it out. But when I started working on the tranny, I totally forgot about it until after I put it all together. :007: :007:

So, no, not yet. I just didn't feel like taking it all apart again.

That is a nice looking mount!

As far as the XLs go, would it be possible to mount the motor the other direction? Ie as it lays across the center? That would be more optimal from a weight balance standpoint. Obviously you'd lose the Rx and possibly the st servo on that side, but that's not a biggie.

Edit: Does anyone know where the Revo 3.3 ext chassis was lengthened? Front/back, 50/50 40/60, etc?