Haha, smart ass :mdr:

Better to be a smart ass than a dumb ass, I always say :party:

That fan run off your input leads (on 4s) should do nicely. No idea how long it will last at your epic bashing spot, but it'll work.

I think you could try a battleswitch (www.dimensionengineering.com). We use it on RC planes and helis to launch bottle rockets and such. Problem is you need a separate power source for the fan (maybe another open slot (like the bind/batt slot on Spektrum) to power the fan).

I just orderd the castle blower for my ERT . My temps are fine with out it . But a little cooler never hurts electric componets :lol:.

My blower showed up today, It looks pretty cool . Im going to order a couple of 30mm fans for spares . I also shortend the wires off the fan & ran a servo extention cable . So i can just plug the fan in on the side on my MMM, with out having to route the plug all the way to the reciver. This will make it alot eaiser when i have to replace the fan .

Try one of these

http://www.robotmarketplace.com/mark...mdelta_rc.html

http://www.dimensionengineering.com/PicoSwitch.htm

I just received 2x CC Blowers and i feel robbed:grrrrrr:


On the picture that Castle show's on their website http://www.castlecreations.com/products/cc_blower.html it looks like it's made from alloy and looks good.

The real CC Blower is made from very cheap plastic and looks like crap.

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When you look at the top of the fan it looks like there are grooves op top of the fan for extra cooling.


The real CC Blower has a sticker on it with white stripes that looks like grooves for extra cooling.

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When you look at the picture of the CC Blower you didn’t see a wire for the receiver to power up the fan.

The real CC Blower has a very short wire that's to short.

Ermm, a few things:

1. If it was made from cast or machined alloy, it would cost $$$ to produce given its complicated 3D shape.

2. The little 'grooves' are on top of the air intake, then wouldnt make the slightest difference to cooling; the blower is designed to act as a shroud around the motor so that the air is forced down through the cooling fins built into the motor itself, then exit at the bottom where the shroud stops.

3. Thats a CAD rendering of the design, it isnt ment to be photo realistic nor show the material, its just a picture to show what it looks like.

4. You have a valid point about the power wires being too short, though a .50cent rx extension lead, or .05cents worth of old wire could be used to extend them as required (welcome to the wonderful world of hobby grade r/c; customization and problem solving skills required...).

5. If you did a little research before ordering, or just asked even, then on page 3 of this 6 page thread, you would have seen a full review, including photos and a detailed description. Or you could have asked Castle via phone or email.

Sorry you feel robbed, but its a $12 fan & shroud that cools your motor a bit, not a liquid nitrogen cooling rig- it still works doesnt it? If it were broken or didnt make any difference to your temps, then you could complain... :neutral:

Its a rendering....:lol:

Get a better motor and/or use it appropriately. No need for a fan or any kind.

I stick by my avatar.

If you wanted to you can route the wires out of site. Just pull the fan wires and plug through to the inside of shroud, then hold the wires down the side of the motor (inside of a row of fins at least three fins from edge of shroud) as you snap the fan shroud on the motor. Doing this leaves a small hole/air leak where the wire use to exit, I just hot glued mine closed.

I would hate to see you buy a new Corvette, BMW or Porsche. They all come with plastic intake manifolds, but it does the job for keeping the air going in cool as it doesn't get hot.

@ suicideneil,

it's made in china so 13$ for alloy is possible or plausible

if it was alloy those grooves will make it look nicer and a little cooler

research for a 14$ thing sorry I'm to busy for that

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@brushlessboy16

i know... the not funny part it's a bad render that didn't sow you what you will get.

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BrianG,

I first brought it for the 'bling bling' the extra cooling it will give is just nice, i don't now if i need the extra cooling because i haven't run the MMM yet.


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lutach,

uhmm okay?...

i have a alfa romeo, have driven a ford mustang v6 and it's crap in the corners, p.s. do you have corners? :mdr:

For $13 plastic is fine, as long as it doesn't fall apart. I would like to see the grooves as a part of the mold rather than a sticker though, that's just cheap.

A Mustang corners just fine for a 2 ton vehicle, if you know how to drive :na: FYI, that has nothing at all to do with this thread.

If you want a fancy fan in a big motor, get a Plettenberg or Lehner.

Let me explain it better. By using plastic, it makes it easier to manufacture and the fan does the job of moving the heat away from one source instead of 2.

What Alfa do you have? I had a 155 back in Florida, but sold it (Made a nice profit on it) to get a BMW. I like the new Corvette and I'm thinking of getting one or maybe a Ultima GTR, but the roads here in New Jersey are not too friendly. BTW I'm not American and I used to race go-karts in Brasil and yes we have plenty of corners in Brasil. Where are you from?

Yes plastic works as good but if you expected alloy it's a bummer if you get plastic with stickers on it :lol: (yes now i can laugh a little about it:whistle:)

I have a alfa 147 with a normal engine not a GTA it's just fine for now. I'm not full scale racing, some events we have here in the netherlands are pretty nice do (bavaria city racing rotterdam)

The thing is, it was said here that it was plastic: http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...8&postcount=41. It should do the job for moving heat away from the motor.

I like the Alfas and wish they would still be here in the US. I got to visit the Netherlands, I had a couple of girlfriends from there and they are beautiful. Tall blonde, one had green eyes the other had blue.

Having experience on the subject I can guarantee you that shroud could not have been machined aluminum and cost $13.00. It would likely be 30+ depending on the material used and there would have to be different versions for each motor diameter further increasing costs.

It don't have to be machined aluminum or CNC machined

I don't know the exact name of it 'form poured aluminum' that's very cheap to make a 3d shape like aluminium from GPM and Integy.

Like this one it's 10€ about 13$

http://www.pkracing.nl/Images/tc50466GU.jpg

Or this one

Ezrun 1/8 Heat Sink it's $4,80:lol:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...N5010-3665.jpg

You probably mean "cast"?

With Castle's finned motors, having an aluminum "clamp" would just be a waste. For aluminum to absorb the motor heat, it would have to make good contact with the motor. Castle's fan is just that; a fan, but in a cool looking "blower" case.

This is different than the "cast" parts, but similar in the fact that you need to make the mold before you can make the part. The parts are quite inexpensive to make AFTER you make the casting. Those extruded aluminum heatsinks are cheap enough AFTER you buy the extrusion head(couple thousand $$), but they are useful only for the motor size/diameter they are intended for. The Castle blower is universal in its fitment - "Fits on motors with outside diameters between 1 1/2" and 1 7/8". This universal utility would not be possible with aluminum(and pretty much "rules it out" for this particular item). I don't think any description of the item eludes to aluminum construction in any way - not sure how anyone would be "expecting" it based on the product description. :)

that castle fan is not a blower, its a YiMeng 7-bladed axial dc fan rated 3.4 CFM deduct some, for that slick shroud with a sticker on top obstructing the airflow
http://www.hxht.net/photo/pdf/2009-1/1200911495226.PDF
It could be replaced with a sunon maglev 4.9CFM, 30x6mm fan (cheaper than the whole fan shroud with fan): http://www.sunon.com.tw/products/pdf/DCFAN/GM3006.pdf
its half as noisy and more efficient
12 bucks here: http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/...GNSUNON3579810
comparison of the two fans (pressure chart double checked)
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...eplacement.jpg

i use this on mamba max 3-5S with 35V power cap
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...h_DSCN2333.jpg
Sunon KDE1235PFB2-8, 35x10mm 5-13.8V, 0.8W, 6000RPM, 5.2CFM, 0.06A, 19.5dBA, 5 blades and this for 1900kv motor
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...h_DSCN1979.jpg
Top Motor, DF127015PH 70mm x 15mm, 38,9CFM, 4,1W, 3-Pin CPU fan, 4300RPM, 0,34A1 12V, 37,5dBA, 11 blades

both 12v rated fans

"Designed in Kansas - made in China" Bah, sounds so Hollywood. Hobbywing at least use 50mm fans. A 30x6mm fan on a 2-3000+ watts motor is ridiculous. Overall efficiency is better with fans, good ones and big ones.

Pull a fan from your notebook or PC and see what happens to 'overall efficiency' :wink:

Umm, "Blower" is the name of the product. Like "MMM" or "Sidewinder". :yes:

Yes, we know there are better fans available. No, I wouldn't pay twice as much for it because it had a better performing fan. Why? Because that expensive fan would still get eaten by sand/sticks etc. and would have to be replaced.

Oh, to the people complaining about it not being made from Aluminum- It isn't a heatsink. It's a shrouded fan. The CC motors already have a heatsink built into them. The Blower is meant to force air around the motor through the heatsink fins for better cooling. Making something like this out of Aluminum would be a waste of said Aluminum as there is not enough contact with the motor case to do any good. If you want some "bling" buy some chrome spray paint.

A properly setup vehicle doesnt require a fan to keep the motor cool- if the motor is overheating it is either geared incorrectly or undersized/ underpowered for the application; people buy the blower because it looks cool mainly, and does offer a little bit of cooling to the motor. Given the choice I'd like a motor with a built-in fan ( lehner style ) and some form of air filter to prevent debris entering the motor vents.

:yes: I have to agree.

I can agree to that as well. But I also believe cooler is always better. So even if your setup is running great, for the few hundred milliwatts the fan uses, if it can lower the motor temp by 10-20* or more I'm all for it.

its cool
 

good idea with the chrome spray..or green spray :intello:

I wasnt addressing you/we in particular, that probably are down with stuf :wink: . We also know that sidewinder and mamba are not snakes nor serpents. I was pointing out for those that dont know the part what it is, despite what it looks like ( a blower or a micro-V8 or..). And what better fan to get if say, the fan would RIP one day, or just want a better fan.

that 'fan grill' in short ruins the airflow and also makes the fan prone for carnage, as debris would have a hard time reflecting/escaping again. I recall a certain 'pinball beating' a fan got, a simple grill did that, costed some led lights, anyway..

It may be more matter of preference than whats 'best', using a fan grill, filter, or none. in a grill twigs could stall the fan and while it may not break the blades, render it useless anyway. If people want to buy fans or not: There are better fans and what one intend to pay, is sort of preference as well..

suicideneil> YOU! thanks for good help on BYT dude. i hear you on that fan-hate hehe. Overclockers might not agree, replace a MMM fan with a sunon and you get 10 degree lower temps, translate that into power. That Castle made the fan trigger instead of running all the time, could that be a way to extend fan life, far out translation ? lol. it saves the batteries/bec but thats about all. Some people bash in -10-15 celsius, others in +33 celsius all year long, Im inbetween with cold winters and hot summers, still i like to use fans, i believe it helps any efficiency there would be to gain.

it can be a neverending argue, but we're not all 'supposed to agree' anyway!
for the record, "I agree, but = I don't agree, but".

what is 'overheat' - one can blame the motor, the esc, the lipos...if you can keep things cool and gain performance, whether a truck is 'too heavy' 'too much geared' or whatever, cooling is a helping hand that dont mind the method of torment, its like red cross in a war :lol:

maybe its good to say this, there a thing to it: fan cooling it not a way to 'lower the temps' as such, meaning lower temps can be achieved in some setup, regardless of whatever fan cooling is present. but at any right/best gearing/setup (all in all) its still a beneficial method to get better efficiency/performance/runtime. So in a way fans could be left out when trying to find a best setup, and after that, plug in the fans :yes:

I can see how the fan grill could be problematic. Even without the "pinball effect" if a small stick were to get lodged in the grill while the fan was off, then the fan would not be able to start at all. That would relate more to the MMM than the CC Blower, but you get the idea. So far I haven't had any problems with my fans, but if I did I'd cut out that grill and replace it with some stainless steel mesh bent into a dome shape (think turbine intake).